Big J
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Everything posted by Big J
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Oh God! There are some things that you just can't un-see!
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Totally pointless for any professional application. Would drive me nuts within minutes and I genuinely cannot see the safety advantage for anyone with the possible exception that you would be chainsawing less as you'll have run the damned thing over repeatedly with your truck!
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I was wondering if any of you Arbtalking sawmillers out there had any experience kiln drying douglas fir? I'm considering talking a wagon load for various applications some of which include interior joinery. I'm pretty confident with my hardwood drying, but have no softwood experience whatsoever beyond Yew. So, have any of you dried Douglas Fir in a non commercial type kiln (ie, low temperature, dehumidifier based), and if so, what have your experiences been? I think that I have a pretty good market for it for carcassing for kitchens for which I already sell a fair bit of higher grade hardwood for. Jonathan
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Arbtalk has been hugely important to me and my business. I actually don't know where I would be without it.
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Hi there Bob - I sent you a PM
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Few pictures of the elm:
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You're a hard man to get hold of Mr Dickson! Anyway, all the elm milled and it's very nice stuff. The best stuff with go through the kiln, but I have a pile of about 100 cubic foot of perfectly reasonable, but slightly lower grade Elm that I am happy to move on green. It's mostly cut to 2 1/8 inches (2 inch when dry) and is 10-18 inches in width and 7-10ft long. £12 a cubic foot if anyone is interested. It was live when felled, has lovely colour and is pipped in places. Delivery for the boards would be by double pallet which is around £140. Jonathan
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I'm slightly perplexed Ben, but your timber looks as if it has mastered the art of levitation.....
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Husqvarna 346xp. New or used, depending on budget.
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Hi Derwen - welcome to the forum. Better off with a good used professional saw for that money really. Domestic saws are very very slow and in my experience tend to drop to bits when you ask a lot of them.
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Very odd indeed. Perhaps a phrase that's over used, but 'only in America'.
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Central Scotland eh? I might well take the lot off you if you are interested. Alternatively, we can get it into my kiln and up it's value a bit!
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If you are needing any help cutting, I have an excellent cutter I can lend you for a week provided you can accommodate him.
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I remember a few months back a chap in Florida met his maker after getting tangled in a rope that was being fed through the chipper. Head first too.
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They say that when a man and a woman have been a couple for long enough, they finish each other's sentences......like Rosemary West.
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Horizontal shaft. It's from a generator that no longer works.
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Not sure that that would be a great deal of use with the knotty rounds from that Oak you dropped in Barnton the other day!
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Will do. One of the main problems in sourcing parts has been finding pulley wheels for the belt that will drive the shaft. Any guidance on that would be appreciated. The engine is this: V-Twin 20.0 HP - Briggs & Stratton What rpm would be best for the splitter? Being 20hp, I would imagine that it's at the high end of what is required, and I should be able to drive a higher rpm to speed things up a bit. Jonathan
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The splitter project never got off the ground, principally as it seemed that removing the motor from the fridge unit wasn't going to be as straight forward as I would have liked. I do have a forklift now though, so it might well be easier. However, I now have a Briggs and Stratton 20hp v-twin that I will be turning into a screw splitter. Having watched a few videos of them in action, I realise that they are a bit more dangerous, but I think they are also much quicker (and simpler with less to go wrong). All I need to do is have a frame built, buy the screw and drive shaft and we are away. I have a lot of large knotty rounds come my way lately, and think this might be just the job. Does anyone know where to get a screw head from in the UK? The only place that I can find so far are Eastern European sellers on ebay. Jonathan
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Stunning workshop there Timmy!
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Air tightness is a crucial part of a healthy indoor living environment. A building being airtight does not mean that there is no fresh air, only that the ventilation in the house is controlled by the occupant. My wife is an architect/architectural consultant specialising in sustainable building. Many of the issues with older buildings is that they have no moisture permeable membrane. On modern builds, the membrane allows the egress of moisture from the house, but prevents moisture coming in. This alone creates a healthy, non damp environment. Our 200 year old cottage is not damp as such, but the relative humidity is rarely below 65%, despite constant heating with the stove. This is a huge topic, but basically a lot of the reasons that we think modern houses are crap is because in the UK we build such bad houses that we tend to see the older, also crap houses with rose tinted spectacles! Jonathan
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Stephen - I've shipped a fair bit of stuff with parcel2go and they have been stupidly cheap.
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With regards to the recent passing of a certain famous gentleman, there seems to be a vacancy in the repairs market - Spud'l'fix it anyone?
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Avoid the Navara. Mine's 8 months old, done just over 14k and has been into the garage 8 times and broken down requiring RAC assistance twice. Been OK the last 1500 miles though, touchwood.
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Not sure either, but that is going to be a monster stick. The weight of the beam alone will be approaching 900kg.
