Big J
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Everything posted by Big J
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I am yet to try one, but I have only heard good things about the Sugihara bars that Rob D is peddling. As soon as I wear one of my bars out, I'll be ordering one.
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Glad you are happy with it Clive! I must say that I take my hat off to you - I honestly don't know how you get so much done in a working day/week. What sort of time does it take you to put one of the benches together?
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I don't dispute that at all, only that it's a superior method of drying firewood. Firewood stored in a barn with good airflow will dry far quicker than outside.
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Looking at the specs online, it was my understanding that dependent on the type of hitch, a MAM of up to 15000kg was allowed (though perhaps not legal here). Only up to 3500kg trailer on a ball hitch though. Big thing for me is space in cab. Sat in a 5tonne Iveco the other day and it was tiny. Not sure about low range Dean. If my old 308D was anything to go by, first was so low that you would pull away in 2nd 95% of the time.
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Been looking into a Mercedes Vario to tow a bigger mill lately and this lovely yellow, 4x4, crew cab chassis cab keeps standing out to me: 2002 Mercedes Benz 814 4x4 Double Twin Chassis Cab 4wd Unimog PTO Fitted | eBay Would be superb as an arb truck with a tipping back and pto driven chipper on it. I do love Mercedes'
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The above statements, whilst they might reflect the individual experiences of the posters, are false. Drying timber is a fairly simple scientific process. You put the wood in an environment where it will be exposed to a relative humidity that will lower the moisture content (equilibrium moisture content of 18% at 5 celcius is achieved at 84% RH for example). Wood will obviously soak up significant amounts of water if rained on, inhibiting any release of free water in the cells. Additionally, if there is water lying on the surface of the timber, it's not going to dry either. You can create an environment under cover with plenty of air flow easily enough. The best non-heated/ventilated environment for drying firewood is an open ended poly tunnel. Not everyone is going to want that though, so the next best option is a clear roofed woodshed/barn. This is what I will build at home as soon as my existing woodstores are empty and can be removed.
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True enough. Keeping a table of that length and width flat is not an eviable task!
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Not sure what species it is, but it's not native to us. It's also not one piece, as I think it's been halved up the middle and a third piece put in to extend the width. Beautifully done though, to tremendous effect!
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I put about 4-5 cube through the stoves a year ago. Wish I had more as it was lovely. Dries very quickly and burns intensely.
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I'm planning to build a creche and jungle gym at the saw yard. Dress them in hi-vis onesies and issue ear defenders and Bob's your mother's brother!
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Fair enough! I just had to ask, as I'm always keen to see the best out of a log in any situation. Lost a really stunning elm log to a muppet communal garden committee and their hired in chainsaw carver, so I'm particularly vigilant to this now!
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Is it felled already? If so, is there any shake or rot? Is there honestly absolutely no way to get it to roadside? I ask as it's possibly just too good a log to chainsaw mill. I am a big fan of chainsaw mills in the right situation, but this is the kind of log that wants to be sent to big mill, and lovingly sawn on a Stenner, rotating the log every few cuts to maximise burr. Depending on where you are, I could find a buyer for the log for you. Jonathan
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That's ruddy marvelous - especially the table. I really like the (lacquered?) finish that you use. I need to get some more Elm into the yard - I've a whole load in just now, but it's all about to go out on a job. Great fun with the mill though - the logs must have been dragged for miles and are plastered in stone chips, which are frozen on and hidden under a thin sheet of snow. The Woodmizer is not happy! Apologies for the derail! Really like the 4 triangle design on the table. I've not seen one like it before.
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Lovely colour in those boards Rob. Question - how do you find the 090 compared to the 088/MS880? I find that with the 50 inch bar the 088 is a bit tediously slow. Found it to be far more practical on the 42. I am dying to get a custom hydraulic chainsaw mill built, but haven't yet found the log to justify it. Jonathan
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I'd pay up to about £8 a hoppus foot for really nice yew, though it can be worth much more to other people. You need to have a lot of it though (25t for example) and you need to have the right buyer. The market isn't what is was for Yew these days, but I have it on good authority that a wagon load of highest quality pippy yew went from the neighbouring estate about 10 years ago but almost £100k. That's £142 a hoppus. Never heard of anything like that since, though excellent quality burr Oak can go to well over £50/hoppus. Anyway, I tend to typically pay £5-6 for good quality yew and tend to sell it for £35-42 depending on cut and quality. Sold a lot of yew last year - around 150 cubic foot. If you do get them, I might be interested in picking them up on the way back up north after the weekend beginning 9th of February. Post some pictures if you can. Many thanks, Jonathan
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What a tree! What a ladder! What cahones!
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Not really, beyond firewood. Only people interested in that size of Oak would be woodturners, and without pipping or burr, it's not of much use to them.
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07832 106156
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Would certainly be interested in seeing some pictures - any chance you could post some?
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Fell it, assess it and if it's good, wait for a frost. The tree in the picture isn't quite of the same quality, but there is a 36 inch diameter burr oak near us that 100% burred for about 6ft 6". I had a timber grader value it at £3000 as it stood there - it's sawn for veneer. A log like the one above should attain at least £12 a hoppus, if not £15, which (IMO) means it's worth trying to extract whole. Jonathan
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My best advice is don't chain mill it - too wasteful for a piece of wood like that. Burr Oak can be worth quite a bit of money. If it sound (or better still brown), could you take some photos of it? Whereabouts in the UK are you? Jonathan
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Roughly 830w on the fan (not including the heat recovery, which is around 170w) and I reckon three times that on the heater (2.5kw). Fans are run 24/7. You need to have lots of air circulation, so I'd rather be skimping on heat than the fans. Lower heat simply equals a slower cycle, lower air circulation results in dead spots, mould and uneven moisture contents. Jonathan
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I honestly don't know, but reading the thread makes me think that it is the kind of thing a member of our parliament might do!
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Email sent
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72 inches long, 44 inches wide on average and 2 inches thick is 3.67 CF My usual price for good kiln dried Ash is about £31 a cubic foot (plus the dreaded VAT). 20 years air dried is probably as good as kilned though I would still bring it inside for a few months prior to working on it (start in a cold room and work to a warmer room). Given the exceptional quality of the board as well as it's exceptional width (you won't find a board like that at any sawmill I can think of), I would probably add about 50% to it's cubic footage price, giving you £46.50 a cubic foot, and an overall price of £170.66. Don't let it go for less than that. It's a ruddy superb piece of timber and a credit to your drying skills that it's that flat and with so little defect.
