Paul Jenks

We used to buy the Husky ones as they were lots cheaper and I was the main climber but my guys now are a picky bunch, and rightly so. HSE don't like you keeping your lids in the hopper as they get damaged and dirty. They told us off during their annual visit to our yard.

We have had this issue with both Schleising and Jenson machines. Sounds like it might be the woodruff key. The little bit of metal that sits in the groove of the shaft of the motor and locates in the corresponding groove in the inside of the roller. If this shears then it doesn't transmit the power from the motor to the roller. Does the motor still turn when the roller is static?

When we first started using the Petzl's the ear defender and visor configuration was bolted through the side so about half an inch of M6 bolt protruded into the space between the hat and your head. Really inspired confidence. As usual, note to self,'don't slip.' All our guys use the newer petzl with the Husqvarna ears as they are all expected to climb, but they all have full visors as they are expected to chip as well.

I had one when I first started but it was a right bugger with stumps in flower beds and the like. I got a welder to stick the handle at the other end and move the engine to improve the balance. Bloody heavy to maul around but it did the job for a few years. Moved on to a camon. Going strong after 4 years. Did a six foot diameter horse chestnut stump in a back garden a 3 weeks ago in 6 hours.

This is to Ian M. What's the weight limit on the front axle and what is the weight of the vehicle unladen?

Nice one Shoei. Just registered an interest.

You'll want the posts pressure treated, (there is a British Standard but can't remember it). Make sure the posts are 125x100mm. the extra 25mm makes a huge amount of difference to the longevity and strength. Ensure the posts are 600mm into the ground and the holes have good straight sides. There should be centre stumps to support the gravel boards.

These switches are always failing. We've usually got at least one saw that has to be choked to stop it. Stihl do have a years warranty on their saws, even in the commercial arena so if you keep your invoice take the f****r back. Goes back to an earlier thread where I suggested trying to use a local supplier.

I must be getting old, or am I already there. I believe in analogue systems. Cams can be very binary, on or off. Give me a bit of worn out regate anytime.

Whatever system you choose to use it will have its pitfalls. I use the french prussik with a pulley and though it has been superceded by more elaborate systems I think it's the mutts nuts. But then the guys do call me old. The freer a system is to ascend the more likely it is to be freer going down. Call me old school but having learnt some fairly fast lessons at times I habitually check karabiners, ropes and tree. I do this subconciously as I used screw gates and the infamous 2-way karabiners. One of my guys fell from a conifer hedge 2 years ago from about 15'. He climbed to the top of the ladder, threw his strop around and thought he'd clipped on, next thing he's on his back. Luckily no serious injury but the investigation showed no fault with the system. Always check. Operator error is the cause of pretty well all incidents.

You could always try using your saw differently. I'll grant you hi-flex aren't the most tough trousers you can get but they definitely stop chainsaws. As soon as you start paying for your own PPE you learn to look after it. If you employer provides it, which he should by law, then he ought to be having words with you about burning holes in them.

Tree surgery in and of itself is, as mentioned previously, a man hanging on a bit of string using a saw to cut bits off a tree. A highly skilled, trained arborist brings together many skills, one of which is tree surgery. He has to have a knowledge of tree physiology and structure, safe climbing techniques, ecology, (see Environmental Policy), aerial rescue, first aid, safe use of a chainsaw whilst suspended from a rope and harness, lowering techniques, his own health and safety, his teams' health and safety, correct pruning techniques, (see BS3998:1989), his own physiology, work in a 3d environment at anything from 2-40m above the ground, manage to not damage anything whilst carrying an extra 15kgs of PPE, saw, harness, ropes and karabiners around the canopy of a tree in all weathers for several hours. At the end of his endeavours he may have to face the prospect of an unhappy client who would like another metre off a particular branch. He also has to carry out these works within a given time frame and he'll have to replicate his heroic feats of derring do five days a week. Hence, even when qualified most people are incapable of delivering consistent high quality work in the commercial arena. As far as pay goes, as director of my company, half my staff are paid more than or the same as me. If we can earn more from the clients the guys get better pay, training and kit to play with.

I think the main reasons are covered in this discussion with 2 exceptions. 1.There is a general lack of awareness by the clients of the amount of time, money, education and hard work that goes into putting a good arborist into a tree and more effort by the industry needs to be put into this. 2. It's a great job and I love it. It's hardcore. You wanna be a plumber? Get a blowtorch.

I concur. The small, routine jobs are where most incidents arise as there is less attention to H&S. If H&S is to become cultural then it has to be applied across the board.

According to occupational health therapists, tree surgery can be the most physically demanding job you can do. Regardless of their physical fitness, it would take the average guy, (or girl), 18 months just to get the physical and mental toughness to be a commercially useful groundworker day in day out. Lots of kids coming into the industry now are physically and mentally weak and a solid work ethic is lacking. Guys in their late twenties sometimes bring maturity and other life skills into a company in what is becoming a highly regulated and changing industry. That having been said, skills learnt and programmed in the late teens and early twenties tend to stay with you. Late starters have to work harder to get the skills and maintain them.

Industry best practice, as per the good climbing guide, states that a secondary rope line should be used when pole climbing with a steel strop and that this should be fixed to your central attachment and choked. This will arrest any fall immediatly. It's a right fag as it's so much slower but it is the recognised safe method. Otherwise keep your gaffs very sharp and only ever file the longest side ensuring the final shape of the gaff is the same as when new. If in doubt go to your nearest store and have a look at a new one. This forces the gaff into the wood when your weight is on it.

We've used haix for the last four years and the last 18 months have been quite poor with several pairs falling apart from the sole. Typically you should get a years warranty with workwear, but you'll get no joy from haix. We have just gone over to Lavoro 'sherwood' and our supplier has told us he's that confident in the quality he'll give us a years warranty. And they are cheaper.