daltontrees

Eh? Don't you mean 'dioecious'?

Junk! I'd neither use it nor have it on my conscience that I sold it on to someone else to use. Except the saw, I'd pay a couple of quid for that, but not +£35 for delivery.

I'd say F.p is right for first one . I don't get C.c-g for second one, that species' leaves are near oval. If you are sure it isn't C. monogyna, try opening a fruit and seeing if there is more than one seed inside. If so, it could be C. laevigata.

Also see current thread about snappiest species. Ailanthus currently in the lead, and I wouldn't disagree.

Foliage looking like M. acuminata.

Found a good example on Forsythia yesterday in Lancaster, unfortunately no camera handy.

It keeps your harness on when you've got a 660 clipped to it...

I'd recommend the Ginkgo. You can actually feel it working at the breakfast table after you take it. If youyr ads are cold you either need to stop them getting cold (gloves, which I don't like when climbing), tolerate the cold (not an option with vibrating machinery), reheat your hands from the outside (handwarmers, tea, certain 'exercises'), increase your overall temperature by vigorous exercise or heat your hands from the inside. When up a tree the last one is the only one for me. You need vasodilation. There are vasodilators (things that open up the capillaries in yor extremities) but I think you need a prescription. But ginkgo is a very effective natural vasodilator. And (you have to try it to believe it) it helps you think too because it improves blood flow to the brain.

I am just speculating but it sounds like it is a noun used as a verb rather than the other way around. It may therefore just be an old word for stool, which is basically the bit of the original stem from which coppice stems are allowed to grow.

Do Palm Tree Roots Grow As Big As the Palm Tree? | Home Guides | SF Gate

They're not woody. And they don't branch. So they're technically not trees.

The first ones, no. The second ones are too far gone to indentify.

Feel free to blow our minds about why you disagree with this then. Dead Wood | Trees for Life or this Forestry Commission - PDF Document - lifeinthedeadwood.pdf or this The RSPB: Advice: Dead wood for wildlife or this http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEQQFjAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.english-heritage.org.uk%2Fpublications%2Flan-dead-wood%2Flan-deadwood.pdf&ei=EFR7VM6qJMjtaIWjgNAN&usg=AFQjCNEwKnNsYZdfVg65Mfe36aE_bSCx4g&bvm=bv.80642063,d.d2s etc. All free, and found on Google in, let me see, 0.45 seconds. 100 words or less, mind. Thank goodness for people like DH who are dedicated, experienced and enlightened and informed enough to remind us often that retaining deadwood is at least worth considering.

Just saw 15 Norways in a row looking just like that yesterday in East Kilbride. And 1 in Wales today.

I surrender, I don't know what I am talking about.

I haven't made any assumption, I have just observed. The trees are dying one by one in sequence and when one gets felled by the Council I check and sure enough there are A.m rhizomorphs. The trees are dying standing, cambium seemingly killed ina 2 year period. Coincidence?

I sent the transfer doc to Swansea, so it's officially his. Reg No. is V158 HVK.

Noted. I still carry in my head the extreme zero tolerance treatments suggested by Strouts in "Diagnosis of ill health in tree". I am watching in my local park the trees near a recent A.m victim, the nearest one has extensive dieback and won't recover. The next one has generally declining vigour and the third has isolated dieback or poor vigour. Beyond that the trees are OK. Soil conditions poor (grass, compaction, waterlogging, leaves cleared). An inevitable slow-motion domino effect.

Yes, my signs were nicked. Also I sold this truck (definitely the same one) 2 months ago and I heve the seller's name and address. Will pm the OP. Truck used to say Dalton Tree Solutions, he promised to remove the lettering.

Great thread. I'm in the 'no doubt' camp. Pruning rejuvenates but that's all very well on a healthy tree. But the net removal of a large amount of ripe buds will set the tree back considerably. In spring when it flushes it may not have enough transpiration suction for proper vascular function, and needs to expend its reserves on redressing the root/shoot balance, or roots will die. It may bounce back but at quite a cost. Meantime the fungus marches on. There is room for an argument that the removal of canopy removes the energy sourve of a pathogen and slows its development. But if the pathogen is feeding on cellulose and/or lignin, it won't be slowed at all. Net gain for pathogen. Could tip the balance. Worth a go in a 'nothing to lose' scenario. David, to what extent do you consider whether the early removal (stump and all) of Armillaria victims as food sources for further spreading to adjacent stock? This is not a loaded question and I don't think there is a right answer, I am just curious about your perspective on what is for me an age-old dilemma.

Exactly! Nature knows nothing of categories. Species evolve, niches are created, other species mutate and the successful mutants occupy the niche and thrive, becoming a new species. Definition boundaries mean nothing. Even the distinction between fungi and bacteria is pretty fuzzy. The boundary between fungi and the many many almost-fungi-but-can't-be-categorised stuff is completely arbitrary. Hardcore mycologists even turn their noses up at oomycota (e.g Phytopthora) because they have cellulose coats rather than chitin. More schisms than a church! When I started learning about trees I wanted it to be simple and easily categorised but now that I have broken the back of it I crave exceptions to the rules and the ordinary becomes a little boring. You might become a closet myco yet. I feel myself being sucked in to the dark side. But like trees and fungi, I would settle for a symbiosis.

If it is, it's a national champion at that size. Only ever recorded to 20 metres. Might just be a scabby Sitka or Norway. Out of plantations they go a bit freeform, and Norway can hang like that while producing upward tips.

Ah well, after discounting sapwood intact, sapwood exposed and heartwood as strategies, actively pathogenic is the only one left for H.a even if it's not strictly true. You'll go crazy or bust trying to find the answer...

Fresh s.211 notification and wait for 6 weeks. If Council does f.a. you are immune from prosecution.

I am halfway through "Modern Mycology", so I can guess at half an answer. Fungi are limited in the complexity of chemicals they can produce to invade hosts. The limitation seems to be the passage of the chemicals through the cell wall of the fungla hypha. I culdn't prove it, but I think that suberized barriers (cork!) in bark is almost impenetrable by all but the most host-specific pathogenic fungi. What seems more likely is that H.a invades through unsuberized young root hairs or the smallest breaches in bark. If you were breaking into a house, you wouldn't go through the wall, you,d try all the windows and doors first. That kind of thing. Requiring a glasss-cutter rather than a jack hammer. Fungi penetrate by secreting enzymes at the hyphal growth tip. The normally-insoluble cellulose can be defeated in this way. One typical group of enzymes I have read of are called glucoamylases. I thought these only acted to break down starches into sugars, but maybe they can do the same on cellulose. Until someone comes along who knows what they are talking about, I'd say 'enzymes' and I'd also think windows, not walls. With H.a being known for cambium killing, an infection route under rather than through the bark seems likely, so starting at tiny roots before they get suberized, or by root grafts where no dense wall exists between touching trees. If anyone can expand in this I'd be most interested.