LGP Eddie

A few bit's of fairly thin Rebar perhaps? Won't stick in too much because they're round and plenty of bite on them? Grind them back off if it's not working out? Eddie.

I forgot to add, just ensure that whatever model you buy has the facility to take standard batteries. The Leica Rugby uses a rechargeable system, but you can simply get a additional pack that takes standard batteries as an extra and slip this in if you run out of power. Some other makes just have a recharge facility and you will be guaranteed it will run out in the middle of site without any means of recharging the unit, leaving you stranded. There's even an argument to use standard batteries in the first place for this reason, and the worst case is a trip to the shop/petrol station to get going again. Eddie.

I assume you're looking for a single grade laser for general outdoor use in Construction/Landscaping? My recommendation would be to go straight for one of the two main names either Leica or Topcon who are undoubtedly the market leaders. For general use you will not better a Leica Rugby, which is extremely simple to operate and built with all day long outdoor site use in mind. It really is a case of unpack, place on the tripod or other suitable reasonably flat surface and then press the on button. They level automatically within quite a range, and I sometimes laugh to see people getting all the tripod out just for a few seconds work, when you can simply place it on something like a dumper mudguard or machine track and it'll do the same job. You will have a choice of receivers, but ensure you get one with a display on the front and rear? Sounds a bit odd, but so much easier when you're trying to hold the receiver facing the laser and look at the display. If it's on the front it's awkward to keep looking around the staff to see it, but the rear display makes things easy. Leica used to also give a pretty comprehensive 'knockdown' warranty that covered all the internals if you dropped the unit, basically you just had to pay for any case damage. I have had a Rugy LR model for approx 5 years now and it's been used in all weather conditions with no issues and the 'LR' is a long range unit (approx 300metres) that gives incredible accuracy at short range. I needed the extra range for use on machines and it has a simple slope facility which is brilliant for drainage applications. If you want to do slopes get advice from Leica or Topcon plus a demo of the units, staggering what can be done and pretty simple if explained well. Eddie.

Where we can we switch to the chipper especially on Willow, but it's a lot to do with the root disposal and time constraints etc. Ok if we could simply pile the stuff up the go back when it's all dried out a bit, giving it a good shake to get the soil off the roots and burn the lot but it never works out like that. However we generally now pull everything out roots and all, remove the root and get everything into manageable size for the chipper. Anything oversize goes for firewood and always plenty of takers for whatever it is. We then chip (handy work on wet days) and again disposal of chip is never a problem. We seem to get so many constraints on supervision of fires plus not leaving any impact at all on sites that the time it can take to actually get material burn then clear up ash, that it simply takes longer. This is despite having a pretty well oiled system now that involves the skip and a tracked dumper? Basically we burn in the skip on tin sheets to contain any ash spilt from vent holes and the skip is easily fenced off at night and contained. In the morning (or even several times in the day) we can safely move the skip by loading it straight into the tracked dumper sort of hook loader style but with a machine either straight to the next burn site or direct to a suitable ash stockpile. This all works extremely well, but we much prefer the chipper route. As I say horses for courses and what works for one doesn't always suit another? Not the best pics but it'll give you some idea of how we sometimes do it. Eddie.

Most of our work is wetland stuff, so obviously we don't drop too lucky with the actual material to burn but there are a few points that usually steer me away if possible. Safety is an issue, and the simple fact that it could cause major insurance headaches if a machine was to go up whilst loading a fire. A brand new CAT 320 went up around here whilst on fire loading duties and was completely totalled! We have found issues with clients wanting constant supervision of fires, and some place restrictions so tight on getting things extinguished you'd be lucky to get 6hrs burning a day in. This can be magnified on sites with public access. Site damage is another, from the obvious fire spreading to the consequences of having something like peat a fire is stood on actually getting going and being difficult to extinguish. Removal of Hot Ash is another, as it's surprising just how long a good big fire base can retain heat for. It's all horses for courses, but in our own case the hassles surrounding simply stacking and burning can sometimes lead us to other methods that have surprisingly proved quicker when it's all worked out? As I say it's very difficult to price against so we have to do it occasionally, but I usually use a converted skip that keeps things a little more contained and makes the ash removal easy. Can't beat it on a cold day though with a few spuds in the ashes for dinner!:big grin: Eddie.

Looking really tidy there and seems a very nice site to actually work with the open ground at the base of the slope giving decent access. Are you removing all stumps? I personally hate burning it just creates so many other issues, but very hard to price against a box of matches! I'd have thought that site would have suited a bit of old style Track Loader work on the slopes putting the tractor and at least one 360 machine out of work, but you don't see them about now setup with a decent fork/grab and rear winch. Finding a decent operator would be another issue entirely. Eddie.

I think it's fairly obvious that if at tractor will do 50k, then people will make full use of that capability. In my own instance, the places you will actually get up to speed loaded will not be a great percentage. The uphills soon put a stop to any of that, and the downhills command great respect even with a really good setup. However empty trailer or just the tractor on it's own and it's just much better to be able to keep the pace up a little more. My concerns would be more aimed at the straightforward lack of any enforcement for the massive Tractor combinations that are hurled around the lanes, usually by young inexperienced drivers. If anyone took notice of the weight regs where would all these contractors be? I've seen some classics that deserve to have the book thrown at them but they just keep getting away with it. Plenty around here moving 20tonne excavators on tri axle low loaders with Tractors and one guy even towed a 20tonne Joskin dump trailer behind the low loader so he could use it when he got to site!!! Hard to quantify but I'd guess at approx 45 tonne plus all up? The days of a 100-120hp 30k tractor (considered massive back then) and a 10 tonne trailer being driven by some casuals at harvest time are long gone and the whole Tractor/Weight/Braking/Age/Licensing needs a complete review. The fact that the LGV regulations have gone completely over the top is one contributory factor in all this? Many would be simply much better of with a Truck that is much better suited to haulage tasks, but the complete minefield for someone starting out or even just trying to comply is beyond belief. It's a serious issue that holds back many business from expanding, even the jump from 3.5 tonne to the 7.5 tonne truck so many people would be better off or even safer running is much harder than it ever needs to be. Back to the Fastrac, there's also another point to factor and that's all Vosa and Customs seem pre programmed to stop a Fastrac whilst ignoring almost all other tractors? Eddie. Discuss the legalities of this then!

I've always had a soft spot for Fastrac's, but they really can have their drawbacks. The simple fact is show them some weight and a hill, then they rapidly become a Slowtrac! Certainly in our area, you'd be hard pressed to gain much advantage anywhere over a 50k tractor of equivalent horsepower. The fact that they really have very poor for off road traction is a big downside and as many say they can't half drink some fuel. The biggest hassle I found was the dreadful lack of access for any maintenance work, the cab really should tilt sideways or forward which would aid things considerably. I'd go 50k tractor, that's what I'm looking at and having spent time trying out Valtra's recently I'd say well worth a look as I can't afford a Fendt:biggrin: Eddie.

All interesting points regarding the Valtra 'N' versus the 'T' and also the Jake mounting of what would be considered a more Forestry based crane? It's simply very hard to ignore the fact that the Botex whilst not perfect in every application I'm certain, is a proven package at a realistic price that will handle the variety of tasks I'll require from it plus give a very good lift capacity. However I've always thought the Jake mounting to be a superbly engineered bit of kit and when you begin to look at that lovely Kronos front pump/tank unit the thought of an 'N' series with Jake Mounting and perhaps a Kronos 5000 crane with front pump/tank unit would be a pretty trick setup but at what cost? I'm well used to having Excavator booms or even a Backhoe rear actor in my line of sight and fully agree it's something you just get used to. Many hours in a Rubber Duck have tought me just how valuable locking axles are and wonder if anyone has gone down this route with the Jake front axle lock system? I'd like to keep the amount of added ballast to a minimum as we're often on wetland sites, so perhaps the axle lock would bring a fair stability gain thus reducing the amount of weight to be added? I did assume the Jake mounting to be too restrictive for normal linkage operations, but I've found a picture on their site of the actual Farmi 260 I have on the linkage along with a strange Farmi crane setup? I'd have assumed it must stow up front somehow? Eddie.

I currently use types 2,3,11,19 and 71 but this obviously varies with the type of project. No point even beginning to explain the conflict we have had on our present project that involves a 6 month footpath closure, but there's been a few awkward types that I could have cheerfully nailed a sign to their forehead!

I really think it was the new N series 123 posted under 'New Toy' on here that demonstrated that I certainly haven't the funds to have it all, but I could hopefully get myself somewhere towards such an all round versatile bit of kit that retained a good amount of simplicity for ease of use and maintenance. I think Wilsons have more than proved themselves with the Botex Roofmount, and I'm certain the Low Tech Forestry Refurb Valtra is going to be a winner for them. It certainly makes so much sense as there is a massive supply of suitable Valtra base units out there for them to choose from, with a good supply of people wanting to keep as far away from main agent prices for fitters as possible. In my own instance, I really need to retain as much of the base tractors ability hence not looking at a 'Jake' mounting, but being used to some nice controls in my 360's would prefer to have controls with all functions on 2 levers. Again a PTO pump would be out for me, but I assume they offer a higher capacity front pump/tank to speed operation? All questions for Wilsons I know,but good to find out what actually works from people at the sharp end who've parted with their hard earned. Eddie.

I posted a few pics of the N series 101 Valtra I've had on hire for a little while now and to be perfectly honest have been really impressed with. My thoughts are turning towards a possible purchase with the idea of having fitted a full Botex 570 roof mount setup complete with guarding from Wilsons. I just basically wondered anyones thoughts on mounting a 570 to an 'N' series, as I'd probably prefer reach over maximum power, but I'm all too aware that I'll have to consider ballasted tyres, wheel weights etc. Would a 'T' series just be a much better starting point, but I'm obviously attracted to the compact dimensions and manoeuvrability of the 'N' models. I have a unit in mind being a fairly basic spec N111e, that I have tried out and was actually pretty stunned by it's lugging power. It will obviously be used for some haulage work, but will see plenty of site use (I hope) plus will match up to feed my Farmi 260 chipper. I'm not looking to re-invent the wheel, just try to get a very good all round compromise setup that will hopefully be very versatile. Any thoughts on best controls/pump/mounting/guards/weights etc much appreciated. Eddie.

I ran one of the first GKN units on a 300tdi Defender 90 for approx 130,000 miles with no mechanical issues. The GKN unit came with what I felt was a quite overcomplicated control setup that involved a speed sensor to prevent the unit being engaged at low speeds, all running through a small printed circuit board. I had to replace this twice in 7 years, then simply bypassed the lot in the end and had a simple switch. Overdrives in my opinion are brilliant and really do make the driving experience (especially in a Defender) so much nicer. I could engage mine at 45mph and it would make 85mph cruising a reality without too much pain. It helped everything in a little way I feel, knocking the engine revs down certainly giving better fuel consumption and a much better driving experience. The negatives come from people abusing the units and thinking they are some form of splitter for the gears? Simply use it as a sixth gear and it'll give no trouble, plus in the GKN Defender unit change the oil every 6000 miles (it only takes a drop) but be certain to take the cover plate off and clean the gauze/magnet off any debris. I have no experience of an L200 unit, but can't see any negatives if it's a well made proven unit? I would have another tomorrow for a Defender, but have moved on to the 6 speed TDCi which is fine in standard form. Eddie.

Littletree, I would guess you've been Operating machines for some time and have now gained enough experience and contacts to be able to keep regular workload plus adequate rewards for your talents. I would suggest that breaking into Operating Plant has always been tough, and at present is almost impossible on a local level for people not wishing to jump on the Agency or chase work around the country? I've luckily been out of the general plant game for several years now, but very much have my finger on the pulse as it's my immediate default setting if my own kit is idle. Fortunately I have contacts who will usually find something with a simple phone call, as the deal is simple? They have a machine that only earns with a man in the seat and they know I should be up to the task and will look after their kit. However it takes a few years to reach this point and most Plant Hirers I know are currently having calls constantly with guys looking for work, many experienced operators with years experience who are having seriously bad times. As for someone starting out fresh and looking to get their Red card then straight onto site at the rates you describe, I think it's not going to happen? The Red Card is just about as described when it comes to employers, they simply won't have it except when it's just adding some category to an existing experienced operators portfolio. The Blue Card is what's required to get a foot in the door and possibly into the seat, then it's down to the individual to prove their ability and worth at the controls. Again I feel you paint a fairly rosy picture of the job as a whole, which can be a very challenging environment to work in now with little respect from any personnel on site. There has been a massive shift towards Self Drive machines with Agency Operators to keep costs down, and this is impacting the industry badly by allowing 'seat fillers' on minimum wage money to take the place of a skilled operator. I very much think the Plant Operator game is just as saturated as any other occupation at present and certainly no pot of gold to be found? Eddie.

Absolutely superb looking setup there, and I'm becoming a real Valtra convert myself now. I'd be really interested to see how a roof mount performed against an excavator for actual loading of a Chipper in my applications, but for versatility all round I'm certain the Valtra you have there will take some beating? I'd be interested in what people are paying to hire in similar tractors? i.e. Roof/Jake mount with 10"+ pto chipper including experienced operator and fuel etc? Is anyone actually putting out roof/jake mounts self drive? Eddie.

As I've said before I'm probably a little unusual in my applications, so actually have the tractor operated at all times whilst loading with the digger. Generally we do a lot of moving about the site chipping fairly small piles we've previously stockpiled. Obviously we can communicate to stop or reverse the feed at any time but I'm actually having a remote setup sorted at present. The Valtra has a fairly simple monitoring system that would shut the tractor down for low oil pressure or high temperature so could be left running ok, and I'm looking to have the forward/reverse feed via a Lodar system. The complication comes in wanting to use the nice set of forward/reverse electric pedals that come with the Farmi to integrate with the Lodar handset. This would give me a setup where I can load with the digger and control the forward/reverse with a foot pedal for ease of use. I really like the look of your chipper and I'm certain that a reasonable size excavator would sit over them rear axles a treat. Eddie.

Words fail me and what's more I even watched it all! Vodka??? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dttSPCnfRG8&feature=BFp&list=WLFDA566524C475DE8]MOV00925.mp4 - YouTube[/ame]

I have a nightmare getting all the stuff off my machines at the end of the season, plus if we've been doing a lot of loading fires the machines get coated in a horrid black stuff on the dipper arms and attachments. I've tried pretty much everything until I stole the wife's 'bug and tar' wipes from turtle wax. These aren't cheap, but absolutely effortlessly shift all the residue from the paintwork with minimal effort. I tried some other brands and even some solution that I could spray on that was supposed to be 'bug and tar' but nothing comes close to these wipes. Well worth a go for some of your gear and shouldn't harm anything? Eddie.

This is an excellent question to which I only have an answer of 3 years use and approx 2200hrs heavy use at present to go on. However my 8 tonne unit shows no signs of ill effects from having the Engcon fitted, and I'd actually say the undercarriage is considerably better that it would have been if I was constantly repositioning the machine. I did a lot of homework before deciding on the Kubota as the base unit, and I was mainly looking for a large slew ring to carry the continuously added weight better. I did enquire with Kubota about having the additional 300kg counterweight added just to give better balance across the slew ring but they said everything was running well within limits. Kubota have been most helpful from the start and very receptive to talking about modifying their base units. They were perfectly happy to warranty every component I didn't have altered and no problems with running attachments. They were happy their product was up to the job and it proved them right for the 3 years they covered it for, not having any issue whatsoever with the base machine. The 5 tonne machine has been faultless so far, so must speak something of their products. TomTom, I'm absolutely with you on that Jake mounting, their gear does look quality and it must be the way to improve stability plus distribute the forces better. We need some more Jake or Roofmount pics! Eddie.

Sorry for my Ignorance who's 'our lot' and I assume the meeting would be towards supplying their products? I really have fallen for Vatra's now and I really like the look of those Jake products, but has anyone actually combined them with a Botex crane for lifting power or is there stronger than Botex for similar money? I'm still not convinced about a roof/jake mount for loading conventional chippers but with a side infeed like the Heizohack then I'm certain they would be brilliant plus all the added applications they bring. Too many kind words about the Ditching! Many Thanks I do like my jobs tidy! I've added a little mod to one of my Engcon grabs this week to help with some clearing up. Basically I was looking at a landscape rake but didn't want to lose the ability to grab material or be able to pull out roots etc. The solution I hope was to put a rake into one side of my grab so I can clear up, but still have the ability to grab material. The existing side of the grab can be utilised for the more stubborn stuff instead of over stressing the rake. I had it made by Abiljo and I was delighted how it came together, almost like a factory fit plus it doesn't take too long to swap back. Can't wait to try it. Plus a few more pics of the Engcon's in use. Eddie.

Yes the Engcon and all the Low Ground Pressure mods were supplied by John Craig. He's the UK's top Tiltrotator guy and really knows his stuff. Very kind words Rod and the purpose was to clear a wetland on a National Nature Reserve in preparation for some habitat creation works. They wanted all roots removed as they will maintain the area with a 'Softrak' which runs on some pretty easily damaged rubber tracks. I was fortunate enough to excavate the large ditch on a second phase of the project to create the required feature, and again the Engcon system allowed me to form the required shape with minimal machine movements on what was very soft ground. The reserves manager took a great shot with a fancy camera that joins the pics up? Eddie.

James and Josy, many thanks for your kind comments and the Kubota's are very high spec machines. James your own is a very tidy setup and in reality you chose wisely with the 6 tonner, which are packing some serious punch these days whilst being really easy to transport plus very frugal to run. The Grab is part of the Engcon Tiltrotator systems that both machines are equipped with, and these really do take things to another level. Having the grab solid mounted and being able to both Tilt and Rotate allows for angles never previously possible and fantastic control. We do a lot of wetland clearance, and the system can take really high sustained loadings whist removing roots etc with no issues. The wide pads are obviously for our intended applications, but they never really cause hassles in any applications always minimising surface damage plus giving brilliant stability. There's an early video of the 8 tonner with the Engcon and Grab in action here, it's only done by a cable tie and the Blackberry but you'll get the idea of the control available. It makes chipper loading easy for me and I like to see what's going into the chipper. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxJ-OLUOrGQ]'Swamp Logging' by Moorlands Specialist Excavations Ltd - YouTube[/ame] I've got to say I'm really getting into this roof mount idea and the 'Jake' mounting system. I've not yet seen a Botex mounted on a Jake? Can it be done or has it been done? Those Heizohack certainly look the way forward for me, but the Kesla that was pictured on another thread has a lovely twin axle setup on the rear that looked big enough to carry a 3 tonne machine along to site in one go? Eddie.

I'm very lucky in having a couple of Engcon equipped excavators to load my Farmi Chipper. The ability to see exactly what's happening plus the ability to tilt and rotate a grab that is fixed and not free swinging gives so much more control of the operation. We differ slightly in mainly doing wetland work and usually trying to get willow through the chipper in some dodgy places, so not really a production chipping operation. My point however is that in many applications I'm certain that an excavator could be a much safer and productive way of loading a chipper than some currently utilised. However it's all about cost and what works for your own system, plus a bit of use what you've got already? Eddie.

It depends on what basis you were having the work done surely? There's basically two ways to go about it, Firstly simply charging by the hour or day to be 'On Hire' to the client and act under their own directions. This is where you would produce your term/conditions and have them signed so they agree that they are responsible for damage you caused whilst acting under their direction including underground services. Obviously you can then charge accordingly as the responsibility has been removed and simply work to their directions. Most of the Man and Mini Digger guys run on this basis hence so cheap to hire for the day. Second case is where you will have given a price to undertake the works (hopefully a written quote) and this is where you then simply turn up and get the whole job done to their satisfaction with all damage being your responsibility. This is where you need to be factoring in the chance that damage may be done and ensuring all steps are taken to minimise the risk. Keep all records of contact with utilities before you commence (dial before you dig etc) and photo's of trial holes to uncover services as the Insurance company may ask for evidence of any steps taken to minimise risk. I used to do loads of driveway dig outs only (no paving) on a price and the procedure was the same on each one. We would take the usual collection of narrow grafting spades/manhole keys when viewing to quote for the work and uncover everything relevant that we knew was running to/from the property then photograph the trial holes. If BT and Electric is overhead you're onto a winner straight away, so doesn't usually take long and you get a sixth sense for where they are after a while. Prospective clients would be slightly shocked, but you could see what they were thinking, these guys know their stuff and care to look before we've even given them the job. On the actual dig out day we would always go back to any trial holes and uncover the services, then usually trace along them by removing some cover by machine and finishing off by hand. Yes it takes a bit longer, but even a basic water service repair will take the edge of a job so worth it in the long run. I just wanted to point out the other big trap that's out there for the unwary and that's 'Hired Plant Insurance'. Not everyone is aware that when that 15k of Mini Digger lands on your driveway for the day for you to play on at £50 per day and £30 transport, then your are totally responsible for that machine. If you see the term CPA model conditions and the company is a member then they are really stacking things against you. The CPA is a great organisation that will back it's members fully on the legal side, and it's Model Conditions are in reality the industry standard. I've seen it so many times where people have damaged machines and then got landed with large repair bills that come as a complete shock. The worst case scenario is if it's stolen as you then not only have to fund it's total replacement at usually new for old, but also 2/3rds of the hire rate for all the time the machine is not available to the hirer! It's genuinely scary stuff and I've seen both sides with people landed with huge bills for mini digger panels and the like plus actual plant hirers smiling because that machine they've had 10 months work out of already is going to be replaced by new and someone is also paying the hire all the time he's waiting. Sometimes is just better to get an Owner Operator in to do the job, but if you need to Self Drive Hire check your insurance or take out a short term policy from the hire company or someone like JCB Insurance who do them online even for a day. Eddie.

I fully agree, if you're on domestic work then try to stick to being 'on hire' leaving responsibility with them but get your terms/conditions signed before you start. Nothing at all wrong with this and people leave themselves wide open taking the complete job on a price. The Sumo survey is obviously for slightly larger projects that would be undertaken on a price and the point at which it could be argued worth doing is something that only the individual responsible for the work could decide. However a little at the start of a reasonable size project could save plenty of heartache later.