firewood
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Everything posted by firewood
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Try this sharpening kit: Oregon Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Kit 5/32" 4mm on eBay (end time 22-Sep-10 19:02:32 BST) (be sure to order the one with the correct file size for you chain) it is only a tenner so if you can't get on with it it's not the end of the world. I've found this gives much better results than an electric sharpener although it takes longer. As already mentioned sharpen little and often before the teeth are totally dull. With the electric sharpeners it is very easy to take of too much and also to "blue" the cutters. hope this helps
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following on from ray's boards, I've come up with this design for two metal plates that bolt to your ladder and screw into the ends of the log (into the waste wood). I've also tried to incorporate hinged squares to help square up the second and third cuts (against the first cut) for a 3 sided cant. I've not made these yet but all comments and suggestions welcome before i do.would they be worthwhile or not ?? cs mill ladder plates.pdf
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slightly off-topic but if you look at the link above and scroll past the firewood tables the article goes on to describe the DIY constuction of a domestic biomass heatsource system. The feedstock being anything from grass cuttings to sawdust to straw to woodchip. heat generated by decomposition not burning. Most members of the forum have access to large volumes of woodchip so this should be of interest.
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looking at your pics again i can see it would be good on lengths with a fair bit of taper to them i.e. set your end boards at differing heights on the ends of the length.
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Ray how is this better than screwing the ladder directly to the log? do you not get a bit of wobble on the ladder as you run down with the mill?
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Pure class! well spotted!
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camp as a row of tents
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BULK VENTED LOG BAGS (MOSQUITO NET 2-SIDES) on eBay (end time 22-Jun-10 21:28:06 BST) he advertises on ebay but call or email him and definitely ask for a discount for quantity I took 50 off him and they are robust. just a shame that he doesn't do a 1 m3 bag
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you could try Thompsons based in Addington near Croydon. The Thompsons Group - Contact Information they dominate the large commercial tipper market (muck shifters, sand and ballast etc) but i'm sure they also make bodies for LAs i.e transits and the like. However probably more cost effective to locate a scrapper and recon the body, if you can find one
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Alternatively, buy yourself an alaskan mill and cut some boards out of the big pieces. The sidings can still be used for firewood. see Rob D's site alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill for details and pics
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no. do you use it to advertise? is it any good?
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if it was all processor size i think i could do that lot in 2 days maybe less, although photos can be deceptive. but if i had to ring up the oversize pieces to fit the processor as well then two and a half days
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no. a farmer in aberdeenshire
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UPDATE I've now seen the load and there are only 3 or 4 pieces of larger diameter stuff. Also there is no rush to get the job done so it can be a filler between other things. In the end I did a deal where i get half the wood. So worst ways I should get 10 loads out of it ( total 25m3 loose loaded split logs) which i have already have customers for.This should gross me about £1600 . (the customer was not going to pay more than £1k if a cash only deal) The other bonus is that it is already seasoned at around 15% mc although this may make the splitting a little more interesting As to using an axe or a maul....feel free to bring your own and show me how it's done:lol:
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yes along the same lines. from what the customer tells me there are only a few pieces of the larger size but i will be going to look tomorrow.
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I've had an enquiry to price up the cutting and splitting of an artic load (26ton) of hardwood at the customers premises. I believe the load is mainly beech with some birch as well. some of the beech lengths are approching 3ft in diameter. all lengths are betweeen 8ft and 12ft long how much should i charge as a lump sum and how long should i allow to complete the job. I have a figure / time frame in mind but would like check my own thoughts opinions please. I see there being two options to carry out the work: 1. chainsaw and portable splitter (slower but enables job to be done when nothing better to do) 2. If space permits, take my hakki and tractor to site and process that way (much quicker but will mean staying on job until finished thanks for any help
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what he said!
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just come across this thread. Sam, buy the hydraulic log deck (the middle deck in the Hakki range (422??)) it will make things so much easier and quicker. if, like me you work on your own, it is invaluable and means you can load up enough logs to split 2.5m3 to 3.5m3 loose logs all in one go. once the deck is loaded you should be able to split this volume in around 20 to 30 minutes baring jams at the knife. Also as Steve says if you tilt the processor so one end is higher than the other this can help prevent tumbling of the cut ends prior to splitting. I have it tilted so that the output end is higher than the input end.
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Lucas 830 mobile sawmill, 2008 model. on eBay (end time 11-Apr-10 16:37:24 BST) this is the link if anyone is interested
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That mill was on for £9k but it looks like it has been relisted at £8750. presumably no takers. I would make them an offer at £7k....what have you got to lose?
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what sort of money does firewood go for in France? must be quite pricey if they can afford to undercut you by that much?
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I was thinking more of the effort required to cut the timber and load up the sledge.
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it's hard to imagine how loads of that size were handled before the time of the hydraulic ram and diesel engine. Now we know......great pic cousin jack. even more amazing when you consider that all that timber must have been cut by hand without any mechanical saws and then loaded with pulleys and a bit of horsepower!
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shock is exactly what happened. the ram jammed on a knotty piece and the old propshaft I was using snapped at the UJ to correct the belt i got a small screwdriver in between the belt and the pulley and slowly pulled it round by hand using the other two belts. the belt righted itself and all belts seem tight enough and in line
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update: have fitted a new jonsered bar now works perfectly both with new chain and old chain to my untrained eye there looks to be minimal damage to the old bar if any. the damage is done when cutting the bigger diameter timber...the cut end falls into the chute then rebounds back up and strikes the the bar / chain Steve.. I think with my model it would be hard to mis mount the bar as long as it is seated correctly and the two retaining bolts are secure. Although there is always a first time for everything! woth regard to chain wear...after how many hours use do you notice the size difference? I have not noticed this myself but then 99% of what I cut is softwood
