Dilz

i use to run a pulley wheel on my cambium saver, intend to do so again soon, cut off the small ring and stick a maillon in instead....reckon i should get my hands on spiderjack for a play around before i buy one...

cheers¨peter

i appolgise for what i know is rather childish remark about the accent and by no means do i say that he doen't know what he is talking about and was meant i'm sorry if anyone has taken personal offence to this, it was not my intention and from now on will try to take a more considerate approach to my posting i dont argue that the technique is better than dropping it on the ground, i guess i should have a go at trying to work around a tree with my throwline hanging in it, and see how it works for the groundies dragging beneath it before i should pass judgemnt on if it is or not a good technique, i guess the mental image i have of it getting snagged in all the branches when the goundies are dragging out and marred what actually comes across as a well thought out piece of kit, and one that i will probably be buying or an art when i treat my self to a spider jack for christmass. sorry if i rubbed any one up the wrong way on this matter

just looked on FR'J's website and if you combine the lowering kit and the redirect kit its almost the same as what i'm after less the slings, and a krab, and it isnt all that much cheaper.....

i like to use krabs and slings, when one piece is on its way down i can be geting in to position, put a sling on and as soon as the rope is on its clipped in and away, same for on the ground clip and its off, maybe not save you hours on the job but i like it when rigging gets a good rhythm going, and in the grand scheme of things the cost of a couple of steel krabs isnt that much, but dont let this replace knot knowledge, i dont need krabs i just like to have them as i feel they make things quicker but i can as well do with out them. Its perhaps a bit like saying you dont need an art positioner and a tree motion harness when a weaver (not slagging of weaver harnesses they are in fact awesome) and perhaps a cambium saver if you are feeling fancy. though i guess at the end of the day, you make do with what you get for the most part and it becomes what you work best with as you know no other.......... where can i get the tennex from? also have been looking at the stein kits fr-j's may well buy one of these and then top up with the extra bits but got to sit down and price it, also part of me really wants the paydyne lowering line, not sure why bar it ticks all the right boxes.

not familiar tennex/yalex.... though it has just reminded me i got many meters of good 3 strand polyprop in the garage that i have forgotten all about, not sure on the rating of it though but dead easy to splice....i thing its 20mm or so thick...any one know if this would be good enough for the dead eyes?

indeed there isnt really a logical explination, and i am infact considering getting the larger 2000, maybe the bore will create too much friction on the 14mm rope, i had a play with the 2000, cant recall which rope except it needed milking like crazy, it was 16mm and until we started dropping big stuff there was too much friction to make the branches run smooth - also any list of rigging kit should include thick leather gloves! dont scrimp on these, cheap ones will burn through on the first day, expensive ones last a week! i knew a crew that use to have one welding glove in the kit box for rigging.

Oooooooooooooooooo....that looks like it smarted!

where are the stein rigging kits available from? I'm putting together a fairly complete kit at the momment so this thread is of interest. the short cords are to be spliced into dead eye slings, 60 mete yale polydyne 14mm 3m whoopie sling 16 mm ISC medium block + 4m split tail 16mm Stein RC1000 2 X 80cm slings 1 X 60cm sling 1 X 120cm sling 8m polydyne 16 mm 6m polydyne 12 mm ISC light weight pulley 70kn 2 x steel krabs and great big expensive bag to put it all in.... looking at just over 600 squid + the Vodka and Tonic

blimey! going to have to show this to some of the swedes i work with, We use lugalls all the time on the rail out here, when the guys first come on the contracts they are all safe but now especially because of the heat people get , whats the word.... relaxed? careless? just because it hasnt happened the 99 times before doesnt mean it aint going to happen the 100th time you do something. Some guy was telling me about a first aid course he did where he dealt with serious injuries, lots of fake blood and guts hanging out, how to stem the bleeding from a severed hand etc, sounds betted than the first aid course i did, sat in a room with a bunch of office dwellers all going 'ooooooo paper cuts are soooo nasty......' I think hes just joined the forum will see if i can get him to post up the details. all the best to your mate - be a while before hes doing any dirty dancing

do you guys who use the spider jack only use it with an Art positioner? it looks like to get the best out of it, you need this or a pulley saver, which then doubles the initial outlay.

from my understanding, if you dont use 'bona fide subbys' i.e they have there own insurance and use labour only subcontractors then you must have employees liability which will push up your premium a bit, At the end of the day a few hundred quid a year for your own ass to be covered isnt that much, it also makes you look and sound more legit, keep a copy in your van, quote book etc, to show customers should they ask. Also dont be afriad to ask other companies for copies of their insurance when you sub to them, If you are the bloke with the saw in his hand should it all go wrong you can bet your back teeth that some one some where will want to try and make you pay for it all.

i want to see a vid of some one actually working with one, not in a comp or any thing, but doing say a reduction on an ash tree in the rain or some such thing.

good point, well said, in no way should climbing kit that isn't up to standard be used, to do other wise would be adding needless risk to an already risky job, and for the record nearly all my current kit is heading for the bin or to be butchered for spares, as for the hitch question, i have two ropes, sappy trees and none sappy, the knut on my sappy rope is a real pain to use, the knot on my flip line jams with sap all the time... my VT that i use for pruning is fairly slick, and needs a bit of caressing from time to time Dont listen to me kids...only use kit in good condition!

also what if you dont have a spliced eye? It lacks clarity on this matter.....or are us humble non splicers not worthy of such a genius contrived contraption?

just watched a vid on Hbros site about the pulley saver, not much else to do on a rainy Sunday afternoon, At first i thought this piece of kit was just an expensive gimmicky pile of rope and bits, but I can see how it has some uses especially on trees with dead tops, missing leaders etc, but my one gripe with this vid and therefore the kit is this, When it comes to retrieving the pulley saver from up in the tree attach a throwline? what the hell? how is that not just going to get in the way? get tangled up, be dragged through the chipper with the brash? throwlines are purposed designed to get tangled in stuff arent they? Also despite it being best practice etc, how many of you guys on here (and this is where i may get unstuck) use two lines? an access line and a working line In anything but the biggest and ugliest trees??? the vid sounded so good until that point, bar the annoying yank accent.

as i put together this months order of kit and bits, ones mind dwells once again upon the spidejack, is it time to retire my hitch climber and beloved if some what slippy VT? not yet i feel though the question springs to mind on the longevity of this lustrous item, does it cope well with sap? as such a large proportion of my work at the moment is pines and spruce this is a most important quality, I'm almost of the mind to continue to use old and condemned items for this work as it makes a right mess, my old harness just has a fail on the leg loops (dont matter for spinking...) and dont really wish to wreck my new tree motion let alone what could be a very costly paper weight..... so any feed back on to who well these costly gadgets perform under these conditions would be great, if no one knows, give me one and i'll test it for you, for a very reasonable fee of course.

hang the saw on my left side so the exhaust is pressed up against my leg if on tick over when i clip it up on a carry tool, i dont know why i have my saw on this side, as i'm right handed most of the time..... Warm is good in winter but right now I only use type A's for climbing when its hot. was looking at the new sthil trousers but a mate has a pair, they look too tight to me, and the crotch went on his after 2 weeks.

wish to be come a LOLER inspector / tester in the next 12 months, been looking around online at a few places but thought some feed back if any from you chaps and chappettes on here would, as often is, provide useful insight into whom offers what - some courses appear a bit vague, i know how to check kit and it looks like some courses appear to be just doing that rather than for what I wish which is to hold the certificate saying i can do professional kit inspections. Any help much appreciated etc

Just noticed the new stien (or is it stein??) chainsaw pants when windown shopping on HBros site, any one used em, any good? like the idea of the hear proof thigh fabric, though i belive it is a unsauid tradition, a right of passage as it were, in that when you don a new pair of chainsaw keks you must melt the a big hole in them on your first day ( or in the case of two people i know jam the saw into em - just testing them they said to the boss who failed to appreciate the humour of the situation)

sky lift

the other anoying thing is i have to re do all my invoice and quote sheets

i trade in Sweden and the UK - work is mainly in North Lincs but i'm fortunate to be able to travel anywhere the work is (no kids and understanding (Swedish) Girlfriend). Being Limited makes things easier to continue trading in Sweden. Im sure it will all come into place but i expect this first year to be a head ache, also was told that i would be able to save several grand a year in tax with the dividends and stuff...fingers crossed.

in what way would running your land cruiser cost you a fortune? or is this because you use it more for personnel use? I got an e-mail from my accountant about buying a company vehicle today and that i was to ring him if i was going to put a vehicle into the company or make a purchase. I am now thinking it is a complete pain in the ass sorting out all this, as i told my accountant you do paper work, i do the trees and now i'm looking at more indepth book keeping, log books proper kit check records......

I have just gone from a sole trader to LTD. My reasons were do you being able to go for better contracts as well as the hole dividend thing. I'm wondering if anyone out there who has already done this can identify any possible pit falls from converting to a LTD company from being a sole trader or ticks into getting things running smoothly. one question in particular is to do with equipment, does the company have to buy its own equipment? i.e i sell my equipment to the company or, can i just give the company my equipment as part of the initial investment? Any help would be great