tommer9
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Everything posted by tommer9
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The showmans guild dont bend the rules per se, they dont have to, but speaking to one a few months back, they are suffering heavily due to people reclassifying their vehicles as showmans when they arent, and are about to lose their dispensation.
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Excelent post wadkin. This is the reality TBH. I do know of a fully computer controlled kiln that is for sale. It was never set up, and requires a container (such as a 60' shippping container) to build into (it comprises fans, computer etc etc) and will kiln hardewoods beautifully in 21 days turnaround (the guy bought 2 identical and only ran one). It is up for about 6k IIRC. PM me if you are interested.
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Drying too fast is usually the cause of case hardening. With the steam injection method you will require higher temperatures, and to keep the MC of the kiln at 120% for quite a while. Most large kilns are steam heated, and use a combo of dry and wet heat. For hardwoods temperatures are between 10 and 180 farenheit, with fans blowing the air around at about 2-400 feet per minute. This in itself can cause problems with hardwoods though, as too much circulation can increase end splitting, even if the ends are sealed. For softwods the temp used is as much as 230 farenheit, but the problems you are having occur in hardwoods with this treatment. Conditioning will help to counteract honeycombing and case hardening, the moisture being increased significantly for 4-72 hours after the required m.c is achieved. If you are getting surface checking then more moisture at early stages is required in general. This is a very useful PDF:http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr57.pdf
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What else are you wanting to know? They are pretty simple machines, and really havent got much to go wrong. As far as i know these courses dont exist, but Arbtalk should have most bits covered- check out Dean Lofthouses latest vid about carb rmoval on a 200t for example.
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poultry and duck farms use tonnes of the stuff. Smokeries also if it is not mixed up with softwoods, as long as you only use water to cool the blade.
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Farm sales are good places to buy tractors. A few years ago I saw a VRY tidy john deere h reg 100hp with loader and attachments go for £1900!!! That is probably a bit of an extreme example, but stuff usually goes a bit cheaper than usual.
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I see shed loads of that stuff Tony.
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Big dogs runing loose. The gypos wont even get out of their vans when they come to my yard (2 labs and a mastiff).
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Reset the carb, its running too rich.
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Incredible isnt it. If it was my ad, that would be 2 people immediately wiped off the list.
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Tractor and loader. Cheap telehandlers are a waste of money that will cost you an absoloute fortune. A tractor and loader is a VERY versatile tool, handlers are very limited, unless you buy the manitou or merlo farm machines with 3pl etc, but they are exceedingly expensive.
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My mate used to work on boats all round the world. When he had first started, and was, in his own words a 'bit green' he was working in Brazil, redoing work that the locals had got wrong....the point is, the locals were cuttin curved handrails out of hardwood slabs, wearing flipflops (de-rigeur in brazil) and shorts, and 3' bars with the chains so loose you could have got your hand in between the bar and chain lol. He pointed this out, and how dangerous it was, and they laughed at him, telling him that you cant cut round corners with a tight chain:lol:
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Its a fairly dangerous activity, you can hydraulic the engine, which is terminal. Although probably not if you just put a gallon in a tank full. However, in the long term you will bugger your engine.
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Yes, thanks for the update. Sounds quite encouraging too.
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Another informative, useful, and clearly presented video. Nice one Dean.
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Only one thing- is it smooth on tickover, but a dog on full/ high revs?
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100% agree.
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du Plessis is a very common surname in S.A.
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wow!!!!!
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They were pretty old hazels, that had been coppiced in the past and then left go.
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Haha brilliant!!
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What a nightmare mate. Gutted for yah!
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Thanks guys.
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I have a stupid long draw bar, the one with a couple of dirty great knuckly bits on it. How old is yours? Is it a bigger machine then?
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Ah i see where you are coming from, and sorry- I hope i didnt come over the wrong way:blushing:, and yeah- a grab would be better for making big neat stacks:thumbup: Go for a 13 tonner I would then, just that bit more weight and stability etc for moving unwieldy bits of wood about:thumbup1:
