MarshallArb

glad to hear it! was worried then for a minuet cos i have it and thaught doc had forgotten to tell me i was going deaf.

quite right: the only one that knows what happened sadly cant say. thaughts are with family and freinds RIP

when you go to pay for the paper in the morning and your walet contains more sawdust and leylandii clippings than money

try Forest machines from Jas P Wilson good quality used stuff, not too pricey:thumbup1:

A) i cannot beleive anyone would start this thread B) i cannot believe anyone would gratify it with a positive remark. what if you do kill it and it eventualy becomes un safe and falls and injurs someone? either take the reasonabe advice offered on here or take the bad unprofesional advice and take the conecqunces when they arrive and they will one way or another. if this is the way its going we might all just as well start yelling yea-ha and take some steps back in the development of our industry.

yeah i agree a landrover chassiss is very bulky relative to the weight they would have definatly been nicked to order i would pass on the chassis number to local mot stations/landrover modifyers cos i guess it would have been stamped when you baught it (general practice) you never know it might catch them out. in all likelihood mate i think its unlikley that youl find it though.

did you ring their national number or go in to the local office. i have had problems with them on stuff at the head office/national number but when ive gone and seen the local lads theyve always sorted me out. the fact its a q plate should make no difference to insurance i dont believe. just out of interest what is the reason its on a q plate. its quite common for old tractors to be on them due to having lost logbooks/identity from being on farms etc from new then cant find the details.

dangrous ground insurace wise. i doubt your regular shooting insurance or public liability would cover you profesionaly. i know mine dont and pestconrol insuranse profesionaly (ie. that you charge for) is a packet if you dont have qualifications ie dsc's etc. thats what i found when i looked into it a couple of years back. i get arrond that by offering to do it verbaly for free as long as i can sell the rabbits, pidgeons etc. thats only cos i like my shooting tho as even at a time like now when rabits are fetching 1.20p after you factor in fuel, ammo etc. etc. you dont make a lot.

Arb Fair north: Arb Fair North Fr jones show: The Arb and Forestry Event 06-07 August 2010 | F R Jones and Son no listing for this year yet but will be up soon think it will be in august or you could pm jonesie as he/they orgonise it arborist asosciation: The ARB Show - Arboricultural Association

im now in a similar situation: when i started out i got some regular weekend logging work on a estate i live on and my father is the caretaker for. i quoted the job at 75quid a day on the condition that the only machinery i needed to use was my saw anything else was provided fuel etc. that soon escalated and was soon doing felling work and more recently a few awful dismantles. all requiring more and more equipment and increasing in risk. and you guesssed it- it was all expected at 75quid a day. i now have pleanty of work and price competitively with competitors. each time i work for the estate im loosing more and more money. problem is i dont want to annoy them cos its where i live and they employ my father and also they have close links to the estate that employs me almost full time as a forester. lesson learned-dont do cheap work any more if anyone has any way out for me on this would be grateful for any ideas. im getting close to loosing my rag cos im constantly told to keep my bills reasonable (as if they arnt enough allready) and getting nagged about burning brashwood up even when its raining! anyone have any ideas they will be gratefuly recieved. i cant think of owt to get out of it.

no took my camera but was raining a bit so left it in the landy. dont have a dog since our last lab. but today has got me wanting one again just dont know if ive the time to put in on a young un. like im sure most of you know a good dog takes a lot of time and patience in the formative years. work takes up so much time at the moment. and yeah to reply to an earlyier post today would have cost me 700quid plus 35quid a bird if i were payin. lookin forward to a hare drive in a week tho.

i know a lot of you guys are into shooting so thaught id share with you; after being shooting for arround 4 years doing the usual rabbit culling and the odd bit of walked up rough/game. got my first invite to a days driven game from the estate i do a lot of work for. 1st drive was placed between the host/owner and estate manager and shot awful was pretty nervous shooting with shuch acomplished shots. pleased to say in the next drive i was on usual form and did fairly well for the rest of the day. got about 20 pheasent, 1 patridge and a woodcock. not a great bag but to a newbe to the driven game scene was chuffed to bits! great day recomend it to anyone interested in shooting

yeah, would have loved to have seen that, h&s speechless. thats why i said the combination of both is good my workmate is in same position and he must be the safest ive seen. when the heats on i would always defer to him for the technical ability and experience. said my peice gunna be my last post on this thread cos i seem to have hogged it.

no ofence taken. i think this is one of the things that cant realy be solved because everyone has a different veiw. i may have a couloured opinion because i know 2 extremely unsafe untrained operators but on the same score my old boss was qualified up to the eyeballs and 20 yrs experience and was still unsafe! can be argued both ways at end of the day joe blogs with b&q saw just cutting odd firewood is never going to be able to justify the cost of training.

how so? genuinely interested. i can think of a few exceptions but generaly i stanb by that.

yeah your right it is best to give good advice rather than insult. some of the stuff that has been said to you would anoy me to. (such as videoing you having an accident etc.) mebe if you ask a less broad question, such as how to avoid kickback or stance or maintenance or whatever. you will get more constructive answears. if its advice your wanting this is the place!

as above, so do i my point is merely as a general rule the more training youve got the more safe you are. the same goes for experience. put the two together and you have a safer operator IN THEORY. ive done some dangerous stuff in my time (even with training) and have learnt from it. my point is that without the training you are more likley to have a serious accident. it was more the general retaliation that put my back up: of course we dont think our job is the most dangerous but it is up there. not wanting to ofend anyone. apologise if i have.

quite right mate couldnt agree more. you dont know me from adam. ive known unsafe pro qualified users. but on the same score ive known far more unsafe unqualified operators.

Grow up mate! you asked, theyve said, they know better than you. no one cares what youve done before you couldve been a bomb disposal expert but that dont mean you can pick up a chainsaw and use it safely.

only just starting out. dont know much about it. got the 346 on special offer it was a good buy. tavistock chainsaws recomended the fitment im running (cannon dime tip bar, 1/4 chain). they recomended the 346 as a carving saw due to the high chainspeed as a good thing. they know a fair bit about it. was recomended to go to them by one of the carvers at apf. from the research ive done the only sprocket that you can get in 1/4 for a husky is for the xp range (new rim) which is why i chose a 346 as its smaller in size than other xp. if i could have sourced a sprocket for a non-pro, smaller husqvana i would. without wanting to start off a make war, i did not want another stihl saw after my last one was so bad. like i said dont want to start an argument, this is just a personal choice. im sure you will all understand saws have to pay there way and that carving is a luxury (for me as a non pro carver) and the saw has to fulfill 2 roles. hope that clears up why im running what seems odd to some of you. will keep you informed on the snapping of chains etc. thanks for the info i think il buy one of cannons arborist carver bar for when im using it for general work.

just baught a 346xp with a canon carver bar which im itching to try out. question is my old 346 which i have now shelved for spares used to be my backup climbing saw (if my 200t was ever down) and am just wondering if there is a normal bar out there that i can run a 1/4 chain on because striping off the clutch and sprocket every time i need to use it with a normal bar will be a bit anoying. can find pleanty of stihl fitment not husqvana. i know it will not be ideal running this saw on standard bar and 1/4 chain but it will only be cfor 200t backup and light duties as i have a 357xp which is my main thinning/ground saw. would use it with the cannon carver bar but have been told that they would wear quickly trough overheating the tip.

saw riko ones at the APF forestry show, think they were drum type, no chainsaw included contact details for riko: Riko UK :: Contact us incidentaly there doesent seem to be any info on there site so id give them a call.

well i would argue that you cant be an effective/good climber without experiencing the workings from the ground. a good climber that understands the groundsmans job through having done it will make the overall job run smoother. clearly the way to learn the ropes is on the ground as if you make a balls up it is potentialy less dangerous than 50ft up!

everyone's gotta start somewhere

realisticaly that may be all he can do without throwing away his apprenticeship! what else should he do? im a great believer in having some time off but in this economic climate living costs outway the luxury of time off wouldnt you say?