MarshallArb

where do i get them from? on previous thread you said they are only available in the us is this so or can i get them for my dealer? thanks mate

glad to help.

baught an ms 660 chainsaw at apf cos it was a bargain its a great saw but when i am running it on big hardwoods it seems to be not oiling enough. oiling is turned up high saw is fine on all wood on 20'' bar -just bad on big hardwoods on 30'' bar fine on softwoods both bars are clean and both chains are new ish and the oil is coming out and into the bar and there are no leakages. was using oregon chain oil tried using stihl which made it a little better (as its a little thinner perhaps?) not used to stihls is this a common problem? starting to wish id waited and baught a husquvana 395xp!

Pocket diagnostics-a brilliant tool many of you probably know about these but for those that dont-try them! ive been using for a while now to back up what i suspect when i see symptoms on customers trees. tests for all strains/spp. of Phytopthora so usefull on Horse chestnut, oak, larch etc See Link: Products

it seems that you can only run a husq 346xp on a 1/4 chain. tavistock chainsaws can suply a new sprocket to suit meaning you can run a quater or a dime cannon bar. i.e. if your husqvana runs on a rim and spline sprocket they can suply just a new 1/4 catridge. not sure what older/non pro husqvana saws run on a rim and spline but they would be able to supply for those to i guess. all other husqys can only run .325 on a quater tip with the problem you mention. as ther are no 1/4 spur spockets available.

hard graft and aptitude are all thats important. you'll probably spend a fair while feeding a chipper and moving logwood until you earn your stripes as it were but even then a lot of the job is more mundane. its not all about swinging about in trees as some people wrongfully percieve. i would mebe do your cs30 and cs38 first then do your work experience as you will then be able to ground for a climber and leave off doing your 31/39 untill later on as you can always do this work if supervised at work. you wont instantly be able to climb with a chainsaw or fell a tree for a start in the first place cos even with the tickets you wont have enough experience. you never know your future employer may pay for them. go get some experience of the job. dont get me wrong i love forestry and tree surgery (i do both) but it is hard work and often in bad weather. its not for everyone. dont waste a load of money doing all your tickets only to find out you dont like it(about 50%of the lads i went to colege with have ended up doing other stuff after qualifying cos they couldnt hack doing it). as for your uni qualifications it can only be an advantage having a more i depth understanding of related subjects. best of luck

yeah ive contacted them will let you know in the next couple of days. as regards snapping chains i believe thats why most carving chains are 1/4 rather than .325

is it possible to fit a carving bar to a 435? i know i can get a husqvana carving bar (cannon) and chain but am struggling to find a 1/4 pitch sprocket to fit the 435. if there is no such thing can i buy a rim and spline sprocket for the 435 in standard .325 and then swap the catridge outer for a 1/4 drive from another sprocket ie are all husqvana splines the same? would welcome any advice as would like to start carving and this is the only chainsaw i can spare from tree surgery!

thanks

anyone know of any courses around for carving? have carved a few simple things but would like a few pointers on more elaborate carving techniques. whenever i try more elaborate things they always end up as firewood. as with anything im sure it is all practice makes perfect!

if you went to the apf you will have seen the new husqvana that will replace the 338xpt next year sometime and that looked like it may be better. but for the time being the 200t is king!

yes there is more cc on a husquvana 338xpt but you would think it was the other way around. in my experience the 200t is by far the better machine i.e. starts eisier, balances better and cuts better. this of course is my own personal opinion. im not saying this because i am an out and out stihl user because i run mainly husqvanas. if you want a budget top handled Fr jones sell ama saw which, while only small (25cc and 10" bar) i have heard good reports of. they cost £150 so don't expect great performance but what more do you want for 150? good backup saw i reccon?

Alfie Pattern, The 13 yr old dad has just joined 'fathers for justice'. in an interveiw he said it makes sense as i've already got the spiderman outfit

altough i agree that cheep stuff is normaly a waste of time. there are some mid grounds such as AMA, Shindaiwa, Makita that are better than realy cheap makes and would be perfect for the occasional user. dont think it will be the low/idle jet on the carb as it only realy affects the tickover rate this jet is fed in to the carb after the throtle valve. the high/main jet is what feeds the saw at anything above tickover which i gather is when the problem occurs. altering the idle jet will only put more fuel into the engine overall which may appear to solve the problem but should not be veiwed as a long term solution as it will cause wear on your chain brake and clutch due to the higher tickover rate.

cheap saws are never worth it. sounds like it may have a fuel pick up or carb problem.

funny i always thaught that the forman was there to make the real workers lifes as difficult as possible.

looking for some groundsman work in Yorkshire preferably N.yorkshire. Got climbing certs and am competent but want to do grounding work. will Have ND in forestry and arb by june looking for work from july.

buy 2nd hand 110 and get back fabricated to your own needs.........a whole lot cheeper! Landrovers are after all a big meccano kit for big boys. too easy to nick nor my liking.............as i found out.

personaly i like the hiflex due to the genorous fit but most of my work mates swear by the strech airs cos they are thiner in build. which ever you can get for area resonable discount.

i have been using a 180 (cos thats all i could afford at the time) and silky in the tree but after working with a 200t and husky xpt top handled at work its a bit of a ball ache.

will do in a month which is when i am looking to buy.

i need to buy a tree/climbing saw for light usage on my own jobs. wont get used a lot. am i better off buging second hand 200t or a new inferior saw if so what?

xengineering make purpose built clutch/brake claw locks. well worth it. it also brings insurance premium down.

i had my landrover defender 90 stolen late wednesday 4th feb from askham bryan college york. it is a hard top rear windows masai red landrover. it has silver wheels and a/t tyres. it has stainless light surounds, dixonbate tow hitch, ''dont follow me you wont make it'' and ''i would rather push my landy than drive a jeep'' stickers. registration GDZ 2758. would welcome any information reward for information leading to the recovery of the veihcal cheers contact me on email: [email protected]

just be carefull it does not seep through ground to other root systems can cause lots of problems especialy where boundarys and neighbours are concerned.