educated arborist

Great video & as for the climber being 'good' or not, He was Efficient! & that's what it's all about there are far too many people who think being the best climber is all about bombing about the tree, right to the extremities of the branches, but as this video demonstarates it has little to do with being a productive climber. A few people have critisised the tie off point...... This Was Intentional! it is to reduce the shock loading on the rope & is the safest way to do it by far, yes but & tip tying have their place but not so much in this tree & not with such big lumps. A great job well done by the whole team! Improoving the efficincy of our rigging is the best way to make Maximum profit

bridgedale, bridgedale, bridgedale all day every day, even when i'm not wearing boots sooo comfy but 15 pairs don't half set you back but have lasted v.well indeed. In ultra cold winter i wear their thermal liners but that don't haoen v.often in this mild isle

£360 ??? where from?

As i tried to explain, this is in order to maintain your rope as the weekest link so look up the break strains of each product, there are some really crappy 16mm lowering lines with low break strains which may be ok but in my experiance any tree surgeon savy enough to be using a capstan probably has a decent lowering line. The MBS of the large ISC capstan (in configuration) is 5T & don't be making the classic mistake of looking at the SWL's without remembering that the SF on the rope is 10-1 whilst on the hardware its 5-1:thumbup1: There is a good reason to maintain your rope, a soft link, as the weakest link as if you ever do overload your system all you may loose is an eye. When you overload hardware it can break the speed of sound & will take no prisoners! I used to have a photo of a cross section of wood which had a distorted karabiner gate a little way in it. The tree had not grown around it but it had been launched an inch into the tree when a near by tree surgeon overloaded his system rigging down a seperate tree:ohmy:

Don't forget if you goto 16mm double esterlon then you'll need to be running a bollard to maintain your rope as the weakest link. 14mm double esterlon or portland is the MAX you can get away with on the large port-a-wrap aaAND thats only after acounting for loss of strength at rope termination!!! Jonsie & I are soon to launch the Loler UK set deals which shall be available exclusivly from FR Jones each of which couples the technical know how with on the ground concencus & experiance. The set deals will have alot of asociated literature which will be available on-line free to all serving as an educational reference & sort of comparison chart when compiling a rigging kit. I would personally steer clear of portland braid & believe it is a false economy, Double esterlon is stronger, harder wearing & performs better I haven't met any-one who's tried both & bought a second portland:thumbdown: You gets what you pay for!

nope, not at all. The wood with the highest calorific output per ODT is a species of pine! yet by volume it is ash. The equasion to work out calorific value relates to mass which is useless when we come to talk about firewood. The forestry commision identified that we should be concerned by how many KJ's/KWh the end user will see from the product.

you need to consider the format / unit of your figures as different research publishes the results in a different unit. ODT = oven dry tonne ODm3/T or ODT/m3? ie are you taking density into acount? are you trying to asertain OD calorific content or the kj's given off at various moisture contents? what are the aims of the research etc etc None of the sweeping commments made in the tread so far are quite true. An ODm3 of ash has a vastly higher calory content that an ODm3 of willow!! the figures publised are often very bias. if you are really interested than i sugest you team up with some willing students & get them to do you leg-work.

it's elongation is less than xtc, way less in fact but interesting to hear

in answer to your question, go for a splice every day of the week & i wold have said gecko is as good as any other 13mm line but would be intreeged to know what it is about gecko they dont like? especially when they say the Yale (a v.similar rope in the field) is better? Out of the 100's of clients i loler inspect i can't say i've had one that has ever used/bought gecko slate it.

as far as i'm aware edexcel are the only exam board for a betec ND arb, i may be wrong & ask that any1 on the forum who has done an ND dig out their cert & check, posting the answer. If it is so then just ring edexcel & qive them his name & dob and they can tell you no probs, have done it before to verify peoples quals.

Cheers m8 (another satisfied customer:thumbup1: & replying 2 the tread give me a ring ASAP on 07835029923 and i can let u know when i can fit u in (you just missed me this weekend:thumbdown:

The limited research that has been done on this subject suggests that some detergents are far more damaging than petrol so please don't use detergent not even non-bio there's some nasty old chemicals in detergent even non-bio. Incidently the same research concluded that the exact right amount of conditioner maintains the performance of your rope allthough too much wrecks it but as we don't have any way of determining how much is needed this appears to be just another useless fact i suppose. If u wash with nickwax tech wash however u can then use the nickwax rope proofer which waterproofs & conditions your rope, I proof all mine so no more wet brown gunk running into my pits!

nickwax techwash, that stuffs the bollox get it from your nearest blacks or outdoor retailer, follow instructions DONT wash with deturgent or sofener! wash out deturgent draw & run machine on an empty cycle to help clear any residue before putting rope & techwash in, i don't bother with the pillowcase personally but will work all the same

give me a ring asap, i will be inspecting in aberdden in a couple of weeks, where are you based? i operate nationwide loler inspections click the link below for my contact details or ring 07835 029923, mike

where in lancs?

give me a ring on 07835029923 based in stonehouse glos & operate nationwide, mike

ive always found petzl krabs to be the worst! allways jamming open/not closing their chineese tolerances are rubbish & they've had to recall sticking gates before. ISC does seem to be the most reliable & hard wearing IMO

nope, its as in being legaly able to 'establish fact' in a court of law, needing both academic qualifications as well as years of experiance working with trees. There was a case very recently in which the judge critisised the expert whitness' lack of qualifications (and that side lost btw)

if polite discussion is failing then you need to 'establish fact' before taking further action, best route is probably to speak to your dads house insurance co. If the tree is phsically pushing the wall then the owner is liable to repear the damage & take remedial action. However if the wall is subsiding on a shrinkable soil due to the trees water uptake then the owner of the tree is not liable. Your nest bet may be to get a local (qualified) tree surgeon/ cunsultant to have a look, where are you based?

a really geeky engineer explained to me why they decided to change it the other day, v interesting but as we dont have the old turn dial phones anymore it's not really an issue. its been around for ages, i remember being tought it as a beaver scout!

no fiugres i'm afraid but 10's in the tree and 10's on the floor. Boot cuts on the floor are predominantly on the toe and those in the tree on the heel, outstep & less commonly the instep. Ive known 100's of people catch their trousers in the tree. Good positioning can prevent these accidents 99% of the time & there is a good argument that if you wern't wearing protection u'd be far more cautious & avoid cutting so close to yourself etc. Not sure its a v contoversial argument mind, the latest HSE guidence makes type C trousers in the tree subject to RA.

Ive seen quite allot of people with nicked CS boots TBH, admitedly not many through to the protection but still close enough for my liking. Modern boots are plenty light & breathable, never really bothered me.

Why does it have to be contraversial?

hopefully thats answered the threads question. Cheers Huck

You should inform them by law but when you do they'll be like "yeah whatever" you only have to inform them that your within the zone. Go do your UA1 it doesn't cost much & is really informative.