Rupe
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Everything posted by Rupe
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Yes thats exactly what they want, so they need it explained that the discount is already in the bargain price they are being charged.
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The value of the wood is the reason you gave them such a good deal on the price. So if they own you £1K and they see the wood as beign worth £1K then you say, yes it is worth that much and the job is £2k please, 1 from you and 1 from the wood. So if they wanted the wood (unsplit) you would have done the job for £1500. I know its not as simple as that, but when customers moan to me that I have wood to sell, I agree with them and say I have to sell it to make up the extra needed to pay for the job, and that they are lucky it wasn't willow/poplar/leylandii or else they would have been faced with a double size bill removal of "waste". So, what I'm getting at is this, it better to agree with them rather than trying to explain your self and your business costs etc. which will all go over their heads as they are not livign on the same planet as the rest of us. Yes, the wood is worth plenty thanks, thats why you bill is so low and discounted, your very lucky, now pay up.
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Hi, can I call you later this evening? About 9ish? Or tommorow during the day if you prefer. Sorry I didn't take your number with me today!
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Awsome. I wasn't expecting it to be in such good condition! The one we had was rusty and knackered and that was in the 70's!
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Ok. (that was too short) Yes, ok.
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Yes thats perfect. I usually go to greece that week but the flights are monday to monday so I would be back 5th september and unlikely to want to do much work!! If its 8th or 9th then put me down as definate.
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Yes, the throwling can get tangled. There are two ways to prevent this. One is to drop it down the line of the trunk and have your groundie put any excess back in the bag and hang as far up the trunk as he can reach, use ladders if necessary. The other is to throw it out of the canopy as far as you possibly can and have your groundie put any excess back in the bag and hang it on another tree out of the way. We use this method when working in tall Lime tree as we find these to be the worst for removal of ropeguides. (we dont actually have any teufelberger ones) With regard to your question about seperate lines, it depends on the tree but I would ay anything over 60 feet then yes we would have a seperate access line.
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Dorchester dorset is ok for me, I'm in. If by first week of september you mean full first week as in 5th september then late that week would be good. Actual dates are my only proviso, give us confirmed dates and I will confirm.
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I'm keen, is it a start from scratch course or for people who can already splice abit anyway? If Mr Shutler is going then it might be a bit too advanced for me, I have never doen any splicing!
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I definatly used to burn holes a lot, but not anymore? Maybe I have better positioning these days?
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Liquid Amber as replacement?
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40K NZ$. Thats about a grand init? I thought its the stump and root buttresses that make shotgun stocks? Or is that gaelic football sticks?
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Not much I can add here, I've been sussed!!
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I know what your saying, and I agree if you need peace of mind then get insurance. In your example insurance was required because he was working where there were "passers" by. I have alway said the the main contractor carrying out work in any public location should have insurance. My main issue is everyone on site having their own seperate policies because they think they are subcontracotrs. Thats where it all goes silly.
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Legally, none. If your not a climber then what do you want insurance for? If your mostly working for others (and insured while you do) then you dont need insurance for any small sideline jobs you get. Look at what the worst damage you can do? If its a broken greenhouse or window pane then then no worries. If there is a chance that a mistake by you could lead to a schoolbus full of kids going over a cliff then maybe you should get some insurance. What do you mean by you "contract" yourself to a small company? What kind of contract?
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Rich, have you ever climbed in asolos, la sportivas solomons or crodas etc? Chainsaw boots for climbing (especially if only using a top handle saw) is the stupidest HSE regulation we have IMO.
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Treevolution are good of you fancy a trip up to N wales.
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I am geunuinly thinking about it, I have some great trees for begginers that will seperate those who might have it from those who never will.
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Part of what makes them so good is the narrow pointy toe which sticks to the smallest nobble of tree bark for instant grip. I think adding a steely would ruin them. Thats why I dont think you'll find anythign as good with a steel toe. Should be able to find something good enough though. I mostly climb in Meindle chainsaw boots and they are very good for climbing, possibly the best chainsaw boot I have used, but still they are no comparison to pro ascents.
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I dont know of any good ones? My idea of good though is scarpa pro ascents, or similar, so I doubt any steelt toe boot is ever going to be in that league.
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I have scarpa pro ascents, from honey brothers. But they dont have steel toe and look so unlike chainsaw boots that I only get to wear them occasionally, unless its definatly going to handsawing only. In the past I have had solamon hiking boots and they have been very good.
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Depends where you go on holiday!
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you know me too well!! Sometimes I get completely the wrong end of the stick, other times I just dont know when to let go of the, er, stick!
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Were are just trying to help. Theocus you forgot to add proffit. I like 2 holidays a year so you have to include that in the costs.
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Exactly, they will charge you, so the work you are asking us for has a value now.
