shillo
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Everything posted by shillo
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just have a look on youtube, there are loads of videos of people picking all those locks and they make it look easy
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my new shed is nearly finished, but now im worried how to secure the 2 main doors, does anyone have any good ways of doing so? ive been looking at big padlocks and padbars. If you search the big padlock manufacturers on youtube they tell you how to pick all of them, not very reassuring! The doors are simply 2 agricultural style sheeted metal doors which are to somehow lock in the middle. any recommendations? Thanks
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ok so then rodding? where do i get a drill bit that long!? both stems are getting on for 60cm in diameter. do you drill each stem independantly and hope that the holes line up and the rod goes through?
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yes i think your right, but ive bought all this flippin boa stuff now! guess i should have looked in to it in a bit more depth before buying it.
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I Know some people love it and some people hate it but ive been asked to brace a real tight co dominant pinus radiata, but i cant install as per instructions as it says you need at least 30cm inserted then a loop then another 15cm plus a bit for growth of the stem. with that on both stems means you need at about 100cm between stems (with no allowance for shock absorber) with my tree ive only got about 50cm in total between the 2 stems. are there any other ways of installing? the tree has a good wind break value for the rest of the garden which is why its being retained. cheers
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ive just replaced my skymaster with a titan reform ladder from midland ladders, its not ment to be as well made as the skymaster but it does have some better features in my mind, splayed base, recessed rung ends that dont 'clunk' when extending or retracting, safety catches will open and close when the ladder is fully closed up. the anti splay bar thing just drops down when you open the ladder out dont have to get to the other side to clip in the bar as on skymaster. but i did dent the top rung when i first opened it out somehow i forced it open and the hooks dented the top rung. bugger. and it does not load in the truck aswell due to the splayed base. my skymaster was 2004 and all the joints were loose well past it best.
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im pretty sure it will just need the air bleeding out of the system properly, ive got the manual for that engine in front of me. cant be much crap in filters after only 60hrs.
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just wondering what your man does with the elm?
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i hated the 339, got rid of it on ebay, not as well balanced as the 200, not as easy to fill up, and for some random reason the oil holes in the bar would always jam up with crud resulting in you having to remove bar and chain to flush out 20 times a day, well twice was the norm actually because i would throw the thing in the truck and get a proper saw! 200 with back handle is great, ive got two now, use them for climbing to, i find them a little easier on the wrists than the 200t
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just renewed mine today with commercial vehicle direct brokers 08452190511 i only spent an hour or so ringing about this morning but they were still the cheapest for me never made a claim with them though.
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Ive been waiting for a post about this new saw as i was thinking about buying myself a late christmas present to make up for all the useless rubbish i got, anyone want a computer mouse in the shape of a porshe!? And my 240 piston popped on the first day back to work after christmas.
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I was thinking of getting one of these things but there are loads about with a huge variety in prices from 40 quid on ebay to 700 quid for a genuine mitsi one. ive got a 2006 di d model which is still a lot better than my old mitsi which i did get chipped but about 6 mnths later the head gasket went so i flogged it quick, i still blame the chip but that was years ago now. I just get a bit fed up with that lag between putting your foot down and actually moving any faster. Are they any better now? what make? Is a re map any better? not that i know what that is, just what ive heard.
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Riko do a nice one, its got a sliding axle to keep load balanced on tow ball. about 9k
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i wish they had a button on my camera saying 'Take pictures like John'!
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yep the balfor A11 is a great machine mines a year old now and going strong can anyone put up any pics of the trailer for it as she is a stuburn old girl to move about! also how much do you hire yours out for theocus? i was thinking about doing the same but i reconed by the time i load it up deliver it and pick it up at the end of the day you would have to charge more than the wood would be worth, they would probably be better off just buying already split wood?
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does anyone know how easy it is to remove the standard Nato hitch and replace it with a ball hitch? I am pretty sure its not going to be as simple as just unbolting it and bolting on the ball hitch it would be nice though!
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they are good but ive bust a couple (through my own fault) and they are not cheap. last time i broke one i was just left with the inside black bit from the auto spout at work and needed to stop spilling oil whilst fuelling up we randomly found that one of those little black rubbery end cap protective covers from the stihl combi system slid over it a treat and its been like that ever since.
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you sad sad sad people! its raining tomorrow all day apparently, im still trying kill all those flippin taliban badies in that flippin tv station in that flippin modern warfare 4!! tomorrow im guna kick ass, ive got a plan!
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Yes, there were also a couple of cavities higher up that I wanted to look at, I wanted to look at the tension side of that limb with what I thought might be fibre buckling and a closer look at the limb over the neighbours house with the fibre buckling as you pointed out, it was too dense for me to see well enough. owners were also keen for me to climb it, had to be seen to be doing as much as possible to keep the neighbours happy. It was also a really nice saturday morning with a beautiful view over Dartmouth:thumbup:
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yes it is cup like, this is another photo which shows it a bit more clearly. Now this limb does have a potential target. thanks again for the comments Hamadyad
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heres a few more pics, there is some more of the fibre rippling on the limb. i was going to shorten this limb a bit as it had a cavity in the top of the fork the size of 2 fists but no decay, i didnt like this fork the collar didnt look right to me. no real targets just a shrub bed, it would miss the house, just! never seam to get the perfect picture, sorry
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Tried hitting the books to find out how significant this fibre rippling is on the underside of this heavy co dominant stem on a Beech. The bark on the upper surface was normal. From what i could find it didnt sound very significant unless there were cracks on the sides and abnormal on the top side. This stem was slightly taller than the other so i was going to suggest a 2/3m reduction to this stem only plus a cable brace, as it is a tight fork, but not too bad. Any ideas? Thanks
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i heard from keith willcocks that jenson were selling there machines direct to customers, mst got fed up training all there staff and not being sole local supplier or something like that i think. entec, jensen now greenmech. i was going to go to the show today but ive just had a week off in france and had some catching up to do. -
its not a public footpath but there is a road which i had to stand with my back to to take the pic, but yea gotta come down i think this winter.
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I have mown this grass path nearly every week now for about 10 years and ive had a keen eye on this Beech the whole time. I cant believe that i have missed these fruiting bodies over the years and i cant believe that this would have been the first year that the fruiting bodies have shown themselves or is that possible?
