scotspine1

Nice work Martyn, like turning up to storm damage- you've got to have your wits about you when dealing with a situation like that. Hope you charged them loads. Why is there a hunchback walking on that dropped stem and whose the creeping jesus overseeing the work at the wheelie bins?

Fflint, If your going to get into treework, the first thing you need to know is that treework is 90% about people and 10% about trees. If your good with people you'll be a success. .

good example of rushed climbing, unnecessary random cuts, hand held one piece then free falls another, no back up when using the saw, could have rigged out that whole branch with one cut.

Lee, re tipper - can't understand why didn't go for something classy like this? hilux

Sounds like you missed your calling in life Dean, you'd make great lawyer. What about suing a developer who failed to follow the minimum fencing distances (RPA) from BS5837 and gouged a trench through some structural roots next to the trunk, the tree falls at a year later and kills someone - could you sue him? or A developer fails to follow minimum fencing distances(RPA) and causes damage by allowing cement to leach into the soil within the dripline - the tree dies a year later after the people have moved in - could the tenants sue for loss of tree?

Lee, too late to cancel the ranger? could have gone with the Navara Kingcab to go with the Pathfinder.....

Is this what your talking about? saw this the other day.

These any good? This one's going for £14000. 8000 miles on the clock. 130 hp, tow 3 1/2 tons etc. 3 litre engine.

Good point Laz. TCCs have given us many great innovations and techniques over the past few years, but they dont reflect real work situations.

Was it a working tree surgeon/arborist that designed Aquafell Experts?

From the Sherril website - Awarded the 2006 "Innovation of the Year Award" at Germany's GaLaBau Tree & Landscape Show, the Rattle Wedge is an elegantly simple yet effective device. This unique ratcheting screw is used to hold open a back-cut or inspire directional fall of timber parts while working aloft (or sometimes on the ground) without need of hammer and wedge. Especially useful when help isn't available groundside to pull a tag line, the Rattle Wedge works well also for certain ground level big log bucking situations. To operate for felling, and with a face notch and back cut made, the Rattle Wedge is introduced like a corkscrew directly into the kerf opposite your notch. Now the operator simply cranks the ratcheting handle (like a socket wrench) to drive the Rattle Wedge fully into the kerf, producing up to 3 inches of lift (If hinge is too thick and not releasing, additional back-cut can be performed with a straight blade handsaw.) Rattle Wedge can be powered in either direction with the push of a button. Wt 3 pounds Sounds like a good idea, does anyone in the UK sell them? if so how many £££s?

Lime nail gall mite (Eriophyes tiliae)?

Did you price a Jonsered 2139? could've been cheaper? Same saw as the Husky but red with a few different bits of plastic.

Is that where they filmed 'Dead Man's Shoes'?

Your probably right if this vid is anything to go by. Interesting you guys dont have a handsaw on your harness.

What about Eric Frei, he uses them.

Not surprised by the poll, once upon a time handsaws were the only option.

Not using the handsaw for the whole removal - Stihl 020. Bought the Ibuki to use on removals so my other handsaws would stay sharp for pruning work. Assumed the Ibuki would be better for larger diameter branches than the Natanoko/Zubat. Re handsaw and removals - Never really understood why some people are afraid to use handsaws for some of the cutting, worked with many climbers over the years who use handsaws during removals for various hand-held branches that are too small to rig and need thrown into a landing zone away from targets etc. If your climbing without a handsaw then your a fool. .

Bought a Silky Ibuki and have been disappointed with it so far. Was bought specifically for removals. Seems to labour in the cut due to the blade being thicker and heavier than other Silkys (Natanoko, Zubat, Gomtaro). The blade also has too deep a curve which means it stops short of the end as it digs in. One major design flaw - it only fits snug into the scabbard in one direction which means it can fall out if the scabbard is accidently turned upside down in the tree. The thinner bladed Silkys definatley cut faster. If anyone was thinking of buying an Ibuki - my advice is try or borrow it before you buy. Anyone else used one?

yEAH, I'm waiting for landrover to design a new cab for the defender.

Dont know why but you remind me of these guys - [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIfuaUTH9Y4&feature=related]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIfuaUTH9Y4&feature=related[/ame] Nice fell though.

Only from a distance, you'd last about 5 seconds inside one before you realised how uncomfortable they are, there's no room for you arms or legs and if your over 5'11 you need to crick your neck to see out the side window.

Yes, coronet cutting is a step too far. Winching branches out of a tree to create fractures is fine so long as there's no climber in the tree but to actually send a climber into the tree with a chainsaw to mimic the effects of storm damage/limb breakage borders on insanity. The risks of kickback and accidental injury are greatly increased when coronet cutting due to awkward work positioning and multiple angled cuts down through the grain.

I'd hate for a climber to get severely injured or die for the apparent positive benefits of making a dead tree look more naturally dead.

There is something very suspect about coronet cuts. Its like humans are trying to rush the tree into death and decay because they are too impatient to wait for nature to take its course.