Chris Sheppard

Nice one, hopefully I can swap them over then. The bit that was different was the prongs on the back of the clutch drum and the slots on the black bit on the oil pump that the prongs locate into - They definitely didn't go together (but that's not to say that one might even be the wrong one from before I bought it). I didn't have time to delve right into it when we were in the wood so it all got put back together and forgot about until now. Going from the stickers on the 2159 it's an aussie import and reckons to be only 85db - it's a bit quieter I suppose but not loads. Will the baffle be visible from the outside or would I need to open it up on the seam? With the screen in it, it did sound a bit like a newer 346 exhaust noise with that sort of whistly rattly noise (can't think of a better way to describe it). Also, whilst thinking 357, did the older ones (darker orange) have more go about them thn the newer ones (lighter orange and auto decomp?). The one I put the ARB pot on felt a bit less aggressive than the older ones but thought that was the pot, but the latest one I picked up has done next to nothing, appears to be running fine and pulls well enoughvbut just doesn't seem to have the punch of the older ones. The one we've been comparing it to was bought new and hasn't been fettled with so should be all stock. Just a bit curious.

My 2159 has one of the spark arrester type exhausts (though with the screen removed), is there any advantage performance wise if I stick a proper exhaust onto it? I'm thinking of parting with one of my 357's so not too fussed about swappign a few bits over before it gets advertised and know the exhaust will fit. Also, the 2159 is a bit of an oddball as it is small mount (like the 357) but uses big hole sprockets, meaning that unless I run a 9 toother, it's 3/8ths only. That in itself isn't a problem but it's the only saw on the shelf that is small mount 3/8ths as all my other small mount bars are .325 and all 13or15" and I like t keep things easily interchangeable where I can. Does anyone happen to know before I start stripping it down, if the oil pump drive and clutch drum off a 357 are compatible with the 2159? This would mean I can then run .325or 3/8ths rims on it making it a bit more versatile. I know the clutch itself is the same as a 357 but the drum has different lugs that dont fit the oil pump drive on the 357. Hope that makes some sense Before anyone states the obvious and says to get rid of the 2159 and keep the 357, I know that'd be simpler but I really quite like the old 2159 as it's not done a lot and it's a bit different

I had one a few years ago for dealing with billets and small roundwood and sold it to get a processor. Wished I'd kept the eagle too as it was a really good little thing. never had much bother with it, seem to think we tightened the belts a few times and other than a leaky seal on the gearbox that was it. second hand ones don't seem to come up that often and when they do, seem to hold their money fairly well. If you buy new, go for the TCT blade without even hesitating

Saw one once called something like a Rokon Ranger. Think they were available in the UK too.

That would be cool. I still have a hankering for a Vimek 404T (i think it was) but don't fancy the headaches of keeping it in work. At the risk of telling you how to do it, make sure you walk the WHOLE site before commiting to anything - quite often you'll find something that could slow the whole job down if you're not ready for it.

Rhino trophy head I think

Been thinking about a chainsaw winch for a while as I think it could come in handy for some of the thinning we end up doing where most of it is shortwooded from stump but there's often a few bits that need pulling into reach and trailing the tractor and winch down is sometimes a bit overkill, but quicker than tirforing or dragging with the crane and a selection of strops. Anyway, I've just picked up some work on a site I was last at 4/5 years ago (maybe more) when I still had the Carraro. It's a long valley with some real nice Larch and there's a fair bit of smaller diameter firewood grown up in among it that's been drawn up - probably very little over 12" diameter and mostly 8-10" In the past we've cut it fairly short and hoyed it downhill to the track but some of it's a bit too wide for it and also some of it would be better off uphill. I'm thinking a chainsaw winch would be a useful addition to the fleet and think it could be one of those things that gets brought out more than I'd have first expceted. So far, the Lewis seems to have had nothing but praise and seems to be the cheapest too (about £860 inc vat) but I've no experience of using one. Are they up to doing a reasonable amount of skidding on smaller poles? Are they much cop at pulling out hangers? I'd probably give it a try as a haulback line for when we're doing banksides with the tractor winch too -interested to hear if anyones tried it and how well it went.

Just heard on the radio the council have changed their mind and the blogging can continue

Rained off today so had chance to get a proper look at the old 242. Fired pretty much straight away, started well and ran for 2/3 seconds then died. Pulled and pulled and wouldn't fire again. Took starter cover off and cleaned and refitted the ignition (properly gungy) and is definitely producing what looks a good spark and seems to be consisitent. Fairly sure it's not pulling fuel through (when pulled the plug out after it wouldn't start, it was dry too). Checked filter in the tank and that seemed clean. Fuel pipe looks to be OK. Did notite when pulling the engine over on the bench that there was a squelching noise coming from near the carb though, but not a noise I'd expect to hear. I've never had need to dip into a saw carb (fortunately) but am wondering if it could be a worn diaphragm? It that's a possibility, how easy are diaphragm kits to fit? Have worked on bike carbs before in the past - so aren't completely ham fisted (well maybe a little ) Am open to other suggestions too Whipped exhaust off and the piston looks to be in good fettle and compression feels as good as any other 242.

They are cool

Dropped into local dealer yesterday and we put the coil on some sort of tester and it was sparking inside the casing - apparently a new one on them. Anyhow, got a used one out of their scrap bin but had to fit my HT lead - thankfully they do unscrew So, good news is 2159 is sorted now and the 372 took all of 2 mins to fit the new AV. My latest ebay saw arrived yesterday - 242 G that reckoned to be a bit temperamental. Shoved som fresh fuel in and it'll sometimes run for a few sec, other times just fire and other times not do owt. Tried a splash of fuel down the plug hole and it firedstriaght away. It seems to be sparking fairly well too and doesn't seem to be wetting the plug so I'm guessing it's not sucking fuel through very consistently.

Our Husky delaer stocks various 2 stroke oils and has never pushed any particular oil. He reckons he sells more Oregon to pros than owt else. As far as I can remember I've never used anything other than Oregon over the last 12 years and have been OK so far. Do the newer saws really rev that much higher?

Ta

Ta How does the HT lead come off at each end? Bike ones used to unscrew but do saw ones do the same? Found some non gen coils on ebay for £20 are they worth bothering with or are they a bit naff?

at 36 ft long I'd have guessed in the round

Had one of those days today and ended up with the trusty 2159 with no spark and the 372 broke an AV spring. Have swapped the ignition pack on the 2159 for a 357 one and that seems to have got it running again but is there any way of testing the removed one before I chuck it/buy a fresh one?

560 - you know it makes sense

Looks a smart bus, wouldn't waste your money getting it sprayed. If it's all shiny you'll be scared of scratching it You'll hate it at times but there's nowt else like a LR. Think Treequip might have done a tipper using the hicap tub in the past.

I know, I just couldn't resist

Aye,, but with some decent waterproofs yu could be rained on

As others have said - few drill holes down the edge and it usually peels out easy enough. Double ringing is definitely they way forward but on some shafts takes a bit of fettling to get them both on from new. Quite fancy trying using the plastic insert and surely it won't take that long for them to pay for thmselves comared to the wooden ones. Last wooden one was mullered in a day spent doing nothing but big hairy lodgepole.

There's a whole industry revolves around buying standing trees, it's called Forestry However, at 15 years old they aren't going to be very productive and chances are it's a right tangly mess that's never been touched since planting and I'd be surprised if you could get a felling license to clearfell it as young as that. Fencing materials is a ball ache for little return too. Sounds like Chip would be best bet and even then it's not a great return, especially pine. If you've no gear for extraction I'd say leave it to someone who has.

at £1500 you're into half decent sized second hand splitter territory (18/20T and probably PTO powered if you're lucky) If you could find a processor at that money it'll be little better than scrap. £1500 would probably get you a reasonable mid sized vertical splitter new (12 tonne, !m stroke and tractor hydraulic powered).

If you can find the older type with the zips on the legs they areloads better than the ones with elasticated ankles IMO

looks like it was a good day out Can't beat a bit of proper machinery