Xerxses

Valid points there Morten... Couple of weeks ago I retook my CS30 and 31 eqvivalent in the swedish system. The Instructors (trained in the US) provided MS261, 361 with 18" bars and PMC3, 3/8 chains.... They outperformed any logging ive seen before...! Very good technique and ergonomics. This got me thinking. They are dedicated to Stihl which made me think about the Oregon bar as Stihl doesent make a 18" bar for 0,325 chains as far as I know?!? Of course this was in a training environment so speed and comercial performence wasn't the main issue. BUT the instructors also do logging and arboristwork as a part of their buisness and this combination is what they use! I used both the 261 and the 361 and quite liked the balance of the 261 (and didnt feel it was lacking power...) The saws I usually work with is a MS260 with a 13" bar or a Husky 346 with a 15" bar (these are old, and pre me in the company, and is due to be replaced.) Might be a MS200 rearhandle for the girls...! Yes there are some groundie girls with small hands:sneaky2:

Well I was thinking of having the bar as my primary one so the sprocket wouldnt need changing around... the idea behind the 0.325 would be to compensate for the long bar...but would 0,05 mm in cutting edge make up for it? The possitive side with a long bar would be reach and not nessesary logging. The benefit would be for limbing. The lighter saw would be easier on your arms...361 is a tad heavy to be swinging around all day. It would also be nice up in the tree for big stuff. Why would it increase the risk of getting stuck? Surely the bar thickness and kerf ratio is similar between the two Bars/chains? As for a big saw, I do have a Husky 372XP with a longbar for the bigger trunks...

Thinking of getting a MS261 with a 18" bar, what ya reckon? Oregon bar, 0.325, 1,6mm, 22BPX Stihl bar 3/8, 1,3mm, PMC3 What do you think of the difference in performance?

Ah Tranholmen.... One of my favorite spots in Stockholm! Welldone and I couldnt spot any one hand issues at all:sneaky2:

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It will suffer from "Uglydangerous birchdisease" -Betula lookslikecrapcauseithasbeenhackedtobitsiensis. If you were a plumber would you do what the customer wanted or would you do it the proper way? Leave it alone or fell and replant!

Stein Crane Bag | F R Jones and Son

As previously stated... well jelous.... Nice work and a lovely spot to do it! Looking forward to seeing these beuties.

Ah, my mistake. Sound like a good read that too. BB looks like an amazing spot, well jelous of you for beeing able to spend time there through work.

Thank you very much Sean! Will read with great interest! Is this the same papers youve got David? Cheers anyway for the input. Can enyone else shed some light:sneaky2: on the subject of which wood is the strongest, the one that is formed when the tree has full growing potential (light and so on) or the wood formed when the tree is shaded? Is there an answer?

Too many questions? I know most of the answers, but thought it would be interesting to hear others experience.... and share knowledge. Looking forward to the report!

How many times has the tree been replanted and at the sametime rootpruned...?

How about woodstrength? Is a shaded tree stronger cause of thin annual rings or is it stronger if its allowed to grow fast?

Is this how they do it at Burnham? Any experience from Ash and Oakpollards and how about coppicing, does the same rule apply? Taking every two or three stools and leave one for shade?

Well... I know, but would'nt it be nice if there were some short, simple and easy ones to pass on? I'll ask a few "stupid" questions and state a few things just for the sake of diskussion...! So here goes; "Too much shade will lead eventually to unsustained vigour & eventual death.." Obviously it would depend on what species we are talking about. Willows and the like beeing the ones that would fail early as they are pioneertrees and cant tolerate shade, or? In your experience does beech tolerate heavy shading or will they decline fast? Is there any good recomendations for different lapsed pollards according to the specie? "Too much newly given light (haloing) can & does scorch leading to probable death. (even thicker barked species, oak etc....)." Is this a problem with all species as they have been pollarded? Thinning of a forrest is normally not a problem if you are carefull (pines and beech beeing trees that doesent like sudden change in lightconditions) "Old lapsed pollards with large dynamic young growth does tend to end up snapping off from the Boling, (due to unsustainable weight & decay)." Is this due to fast growth and competiton for light? Why and when does it happen? Is it due to lack of carbonhydrates and "spongy" wood with little ligninforming in the wood or is it wide annualrings and therefore lack of bending ability? Or is it just a question of leverage (Mattheck; height versus girth problem?) "Reduction of height over time and cycle, is possibly the best & only way to return to a feasible pollard.." How long a period? How much? -Hit 'em hard and let 'em resprout, then give 'em a good slap on the head 5 years later? Would you eventually bring them back to the original boling, or would you aim on a higher point where the cut would be smaller? "& the same with introducing more light in to the equation. Little bit at a time if budget & oportunity allow.." So this would be the general advice? Slow and little bit at a time?

I have very little first hand experience of maintaining pollards especially lapsed ones. I have followed various threads about staged pruning and how to treat them.... But what if they are not pruned? What happens? What are the problems? I have been asked and can't really give definate answers? Due to weak "new" branches they will collaps eventually? Is this true? Due to the fast growing rate of the new growth, the annual rings are wide and therfore more prone to breakage? Is this true? All trees that grow at a fast rate are weaker then if they were shaded and due to this grows slower? Is this true? Any input and discussion appreciated!

Youre joking, right? Are you actually promoting the butchering of a birch?!? There is no sign of a problem as it is, but the suggestion is to create a ugly highmaintenence tree just for the sake of it? If you think there might be a problem, tell the client that there is no signs of roots lifting the ground as it is, but it might be a problem in the future. The advise then would be to consider a new tree further away and fell the birch within a couple of years. This will build your reputation as someone intrested in trees and not just money, and thus SHOULD create the offspin of more work from neighbours and friends of the customer.

In standard petrol the refiningmethod aim to produce as much petrol as possible and the end product isn't very flammable, therefore they add a solvent to give the petrol back its flammability.The solvent is very volative and when it dissapears the petrol "goes off". At least thats what i have been told. Thats another reason why Im using Aspen everyday...less volatives to breath in and it doesn't "go off"

I have seen Phellinus ignarius grow on branches like that... but as MonkeD says, its not possible to identify on your pics. Hard to give any advice on stability of the tree, one really has to be at the tree to be able to do that.

Interesting pics. As above....WOW!

Nima - Trädfällsriktare RH-Pusher I+ Just found one company selling them here...? Roughly 258 pound (+vat?)

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmWEsCxqnMw&feature=related]YouTube - RH2 Pusher[/ame]

Stalpen - Mechanical Tree Jack Gränsfors stuff...

Hm, not sure how to explain... Did the tree fall EXACTLY where you aimed at, or did it land slightly to the left or the right from your target point? If the tree is sideweighted (not nesseserily a sideleaner) the hinge will be exposed to compressionforce on that side and pullingforce on the other. If the tree is dead straight, the whole length of the hinge will be exposed to the same force the whole time, mainly pullingforce as the fibres are bending while the tree is beeing forced forward during the falling of the tree. But on the sideweighted tree its different. When the tree is being forced forward the hinge fibres will start to bend but as the fibres on the compressionside is being exposed to too high forces those fibres vill break before the ones on the pulling side of the hinge, and thus making the tree twist, ever so slightly, and the tree lands slightly to the side of where you were aiming. Hope that claryfies things:blushing: Obviously there wasn't a problem on the tree you felled in the pic, but if you were to fell 90ft firtrees the top might end up a couple of feet wrong or you might get a hung up tree! This can be avoided by inserting a wedge just behind the hinge and give it a few whacks ( and lift a couple of hundred kilos). Lets say the hinge is subject to a 200kg compressionforce (the fibres will then break as soon as they are exposed to any bending force) but if you apply a lifting force of 300 kg (300-200=100kg) you will instead have 100kg of pullingforce and the hinge will hold and lead the tree all the way down and only break off as your gob closes.

Look at my previous post about confusing things... hopefully it is clear othervise I will try to explain again.