treeseer

On the sequoia, I never worried about the rings, but that dinky strap for tie-in...what's the best way to back it up?

dinnertime for all kinds of critters! plenty of parenchyma expose there, yum yum

ha thats a good medium all right. so the branch functions without sugars flowing in tubes through that bare patch. so evidently there is enough metabolism etc going on distal to the bare patch that needs for growth are met, with water coming up the xylem. i just wondered since chemicals pass through parenchyma to effect signals, might some of those chemicals be part of metabolism proximal to the bare patch? or does any of this matter?

pm me; email bounced. re followup maybe; what more is there to show?

Gorgeous picture of tree-fungus interaction; thanks! In absence of fruiting bodies, Nectria sp. is often thrown out as a guess in the US. Tony you may be right about compression buckles being a primary entry point; that explains the location of the majority i see here. Did you notice how far above and below the buckle the fungal activity went?

To me it looks like it could be possibly drought related but since the other trees are fine I thought it would be interesting to hear the thoughts of others. &No idea how that happened! I notice also the double swelling on the trunk? &Strange that, looks to be well sealed on the outside--how is the inside? The tree is fairly skinny and doesn't offer much amenity value so if its dangerous to the owner then it can be removed, thoughts from everyone please? &Could be bolted easily enough; could we see the whole tree, and the root flare?

Have you carried out the cauterising many times? &yes typically now on lesions. just a quick double pass for dry cankers, and just enough to stop the sizzling on the juicy bits. seen it done in orchards in NZ, and WI and MI and FL in the US. note in the easytofind lit below they talk about scorching the wood, but as you note this damage can predispose to infection. at the most i watch the wood darken but not shrivel or crack. it depends on how degraded the tissue is--careful tracing essential ahead of torching, so the flame can keep moving. Has there ever been any anecdotal evidence of associated fungal activity where the burning has occured. &one patch of oyster fungus. I often see the likes of Bjerkendra on burnt oaks which I imagine is partly due to dead material but also perhaps the change in bark chemistry? &Wood chemistry too. bad to boil the juice out of wood generally, but when some/much of that juice is infected/infectious it's a hard call. i try to err on the side of missing some; there is usually a followup eruption or two to deal with anyway. Would a moving of the first line of car parking away from the outer periphery of RPA & an amelioration of the root zone be a worthwhile consideration with this post oak? & Cars are way beyond dripline, and one is afoul of town planners etc if one takes parking away; my god man this is america; cars are mobile sanctuaries and objects of worship! soil amelioration (my favorite word as it derives as my surname) is focused on the symptomatic sides of the rootzone; toward the sidewalk mainly. Companion plants are being reviewed now; a mix of grasses and perennial flowers maybe ground orchids and asarum. http://whatcom.wsu.edu/mgtemp/classes/plant_disease/EB1013.pdf Burning cankers to cauterize them is a method which comes from New Zealand. Tree fruit owners use a propane torch to cauterize cankers on the trunk and larger branches. They direct flames on the canker until the underlying tissue begins to crackle and char (5 to 20 seconds). *Ed note--Yikes!* Treatment must extend to the outer canker margins, where active bacterial infection occurs. Treated cankers are inspected in 15 to 20 days. Cankers should be heated again if the disease continues to show activity beyond the burnt area. Cauterizing should take place in early spring, before bloom, when the bacteria are active, and the cankers are enlarging. Cankers observed in the fall should be cauterized immediately to prevent spread of the disease during cool, rainy fall and winter weather. Several months following treatment, charred tissue will slough off, leaving a well-formed callus. and from http://www.extension.uidaho.edu/nursery/Landscape%20problems/Bacterial%20Canker%20of%20Stone%20Fruit%20Trees.pdf There is no complete control by any single method for bacterial canker and gummosis of stone fruit trees but there are many useful practices that can help reduce the risk of infestation. ... Cankers can be controlled by cauterization with a hand help propane burner in early to mid spring. Hold the flame up to the canker for fifteen to twenty seconds until the bark and underlying tissue begins to crackle and crinkle. *That's more like it, still leaving juice in the wood.* If it is necessary you can repeat this method in 2-3 weeks (Agrios, 445). ... Works cited Agrios, G.N. (1997). Plant Pathology. 4th Ed., Academic Press, San Diego, CA As for the assessment, its too big to attach. i can email it if you want, public info.

Amazing, indeed! How can one tell the phloem is totally nonexistent? ok, the whole surface appears to be inactive xylem. Even with cambium gone, other parenchyma cells are probably still functioning, and connected. That's a wild guess based on dissecting branches and firewood. Parenchyma and phloem are hard for me to tell apart, in sight or in concept. Maybe it's that generally phloem transports matter and parenchyma transports energy?

Sharp-dressed arborists with shiny drills and tomograph condemned based on formulae. The hands-on approach led to different conclusions.

Tree condemned by people in clean clothes with shiny tomographs and drills and formulae. The hands-on approach led to a different conclusion.

Even if you can't move out all the dead needles, it would still help to remove as many as possible. Start at the top and shake and brush away all the dead needles and twigs possible. This crown cleaning will get more light and air in to discourage fungal activity, as well as dramatically improving appearance. Then bury or burn all the fallen debris. If disease is caused by excess moisture then too much mulch can worsen matters.

Pot mark? That's a good guideline, IF the nursery had the first root at the pot mark. Typically it's way deep. Finding that first root is very important. The nearer to grade the better.

It's on a slope so digging a trech or swale to speed drainage may help. And a structure or berm upslope to deflect runoff if any. Too much mulch will trap moisture, easy does it. I'd rip out the surrounding sod too. First pic shows it looking pretty deep. How far below grade is the first primary root? If too deep then replanting may be an option.

All good points, totally agree. An 8m ladder would allow access to assess, does that require 2 workers with tickets for ladder use? Jk...

Peter's pic shows ffb in sinus, but not on buttress. It's worth looking to see if the tree is showing signs of walling off against the spread and buttress remains solid.

The tree may be able to be retained without a lot of pruning. It depends on; size and shape of crown now, root care, possible support system used, owner's goals, etc. It's hard to prescribe a "needed" drill that takes away tree benefits without even seeing the crown, isn't it? How can one size of pruning regimen fit so many sizes of tree challenges?

2meters may be plenty far away, if the foundation is not a continuous trench but set on posts. Other factors include: what is done with the rest of the rooting area, what is done with the crown, etc. The only way to assess the decay would include measuring it.

From the US, fwiw: The revision of ANSI A300 Part 3 Supplemental Support Systems and the new ANSI A300 Part 8 Root Management are in public review from July 6 to August 20, 2012. The 30-day limited public review for the revision of ANSI A300 Part 7 IVM is also in public review from July 6 to August 5, 2012. This revision is limited to proposed changes for a small number of definitions and subclauses, the whole document is not available for public review. All three documents are available for download at Current Projects | Tree Care Industry Association They are in the last column on the right in the table. Commenting ...should include: 1. The wording in question, identified by number; 2. Supporting information, documents, images, references; 3. Your suggested wording to improve the standard. Note: Unsupported rants on unprovable philosophy are hard to understand, much less incorporate. "Annex D – Managing roots affected by fill: Sample specifications for RCX (root collar examination) (This annex will not be considered part of the ANSI A300 Part 8 standard.) D-1 Scope: Trees with fill contacting the trunk. D-2 Objective: Avoid damage to the tree from the effects of fill on the trunk. D- 3 Specifications: 1. Rake any coarse woody debris or fresh mulch away from the root collar area. 2. Press the blade of a shovel or a trowel against the trunk. Slide it carefully downward until resistance is met. 3. Push the handle toward the trunk, moving the blade away from the trunk. 4. Remove individual adventitious roots <1 cm and stem-girdling roots <1/10 trunk diameter. Manage larger roots per ANSI A300 (Part 8), 83.4 and 84.4. Avoid contact between the trunk and any remaining adventitious, girdling, and circling roots. 5. Lift the material away from the trunk and place it in a temporary staging area. 6. Separate and dispose of any infertile soil and debris. Retain the fertile soil, fine roots, mycorrhizae, and decomposed mulch. 7. Repeat until trunk and flare are clear, out to the root collar, where buttress roots divide. Use smaller hand tools, or compressed water or air, to complete the excavation. Commence the RCX (root collar examination). 8. Consider replanting the tree, if the flare is over 2” (5 cm) below grade and the tree has been in the ground for less than 5 years. 9. Remove soil and fine roots outside of the root collar to make a gradual slope. 10. Consider installing a device to control erosion. 11. Apply 2-4” (5-10 cm) of mulch over the root collar. Avoid mulch contact with the flare. 12. Remove the fine roots, fertile soil, mycorrhizae and decomposed mulch from the staging area. Incorporate the material into the outer rootzone. 13. Specify that future management will keep the flare visible." my second-favorite part 8 part is the flowchart at the start. comments welcome here or offline to me (the part 8 parts anyway) or through the regular channels.

Ah well i have not seen much of the native habitat in the heart of the metropolis here, but you may well be right. much water and hardscape between this garden and any other park, but nature has ways of spreading, you are right, and thank God for that!

Plants from all over incl. a 32 tonne baobab from Senegal. The mind reels at the cost; like Queen Hatsheput going after frankincense from Sudan, and then some. On the supertree/towers there are many regional but yes many from other tropical areas. The garden is a long way from native habitats, as there is a big city in between. Did the stocking of Kew affect England's biodiversity?

So whaddya do when you're on the equator, have $1 billion to build a garden, and are persuaded that fullsized trees cannot be grown in urban areas?? Simple--just build them out of steel and epiphytes! Singapore's Gardens by the Bay just opened yesterday. The future?

Next time let's hope that proper reduction is considered first, and the whole tree lightly pruned, instead of raising via branch removal aka giraffe pruning. Size of wound/amount of exposed heartwood remains the most important consideration. Attached and other research in the last 2 decades have exploded the paradigms that removal cuts are typically better than reduction cuts, and the 1/3 guideline. Also Hamburg is a lot closer to you guys than the US, where those old guidelines evolved. pruning collar dujesieffken.pdf

Mmmm that may be, IF the stubs will decay instead of resprouting. Impossible to answer without pics or more info--diameter of stub end vs. attachment, % that was removed, vitality, condition... It could be that just pruning back to the next good node is the best way to go, if regrowth is likely. That regrowth might be trained into an acceptable form, so those cut branches might be restored...

Fertilizer applied without the buffering and other benefits of mulch may well do harm. The ANSI standard calls for soil modification needs to be addressed before fert. Is there a UK standar4d for soil works?

Those roots need help, can you give the chips back to the trees as mulch? this would also buffer salt runoff or other pollution. also the buttress roots do not seem quite visible, so root collar exposure seems like another idea. Girdling roots can cause or aggravate other issues. those are not Prunus x yedoensis Yoshino cherries are they?