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treeseer

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Everything posted by treeseer

  1. I'll try to ignore, but...scan up the thread and you'll see me asking about the objective, and the % removed. And got no reply to those points. Yes, asking gets one info; telling not. And believe me I share your contempt for undereducated CA's full of themselves, many times over! re apples and oranges, everyone in every country can say "O you are different--nevermind!" And many do, yet in fact trees are trees, and people are people. Sorry I missed you a year ago in Abbottsford with Dr. Dunster, or 2 years ago in Bend OR with PNWISA. Next time, look me up! Windsor ON in Feb '19, etc. Meanwhile, ditch the chaps and the chainsaw and take a lighter dose off those trees; it'll be easier on them, and you! Take some lemon juice and a wee dram for the cold, and please publish your work beyond arbtalk someday!
  2. Not quit; it's a good place to network still. I quit being a CA, to be a BCMA. As far as reducing leverage goes, 15% off the end can increase stability 50% or more. No need for major whacking. For instance, the tree in the attached poster, 90%+ hollow, was retained with a light reduction, using a polesaw and handsaw. http://www.historictreecare.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/AREA-140801.pdf Check out the brushpile, and the after shot. A little goes a long way.. Books and classrooms are half of the story, so don't put them down so fast.
  3. What's proper depends on the objective. When will the tree be pruned again? For most jobs, you're right; I would flunk the school of thought that calls for such big cuts and so much asset removed. btw I quit being ISA certified in 2004, and follow international standards more than the I/USA's A300. Also, thanks for the info on chaps; not used to seeing them used in trees. When cuts are <6", the chainsaw stays on the ground. Carry on!
  4. Cuts are proper and correct if they are small; precision not required. Reduction pruning can be proper and correct when the dose is small and the cuts are small. Poles reach the tips, where no man can. Still not clear on why those things were on your feet, or why so much tree was removed.
  5. Frothy flux http://www.historictreecare.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Ooze-in-the-News-from-TCI-Magazine-09-04.pdf
  6. Steve, you must have been using the wrong tools. Reductions much easier with pole tools. Smaller cuts, more benefits retained, less strain on the climber. Reg, I like that quiet chainsaw sound. I use an MS160. For nothing major, that is a lot coming off. 20%? 40%? And what are those things on your feet? They look familiar.
  7. Before construction, several actions can be taken to conserve roots, and trees: aerating, inoculating, fertilising (per need), weeding, and mulching the soil among them. Soil probing is minimally invasive, but yields valuable information. Facts are much more reliable than formulas. Might calling for larger RPA "until we get more research" backfire? When large areas are claimed as essential, the conclusion is often to remove the tree because of a formula!
  8. Not planning; I used to be one, but got tired of the turban thing. Some really cool trees at the Golden Temple. One dead tree is housed in its own building. How's this for an Eiffeltree?
  9. Nice debunking of the matrix approach; "Anything is Possible" so it can be worse than useless. Also it's not clear that we need to pretend that we can reliably calculate Likelihood of Failure. It seems like we're chasing a ghost when we try. At best it's a SWAG, but typically we are at a high risk of misleading our clients. Honesty might really be the best policy.
  10. I like the 160 VERY much but bigger cuts are quite slow; can't wait to try the 161!
  11. Yes the stuff of legends; I've enjoyed my brief visits to the English countryside, so rich in history, real and embellished.
  12. So the building owner would have to document an actionable nuisance; got it. That could/should have been fairly easy to do, if they had hired an arborist with 20/20 vision. re a rod being removed, I don't believe it. Once installed, they are near impossible to get out. Plus the scar from that operation should have been quite visible in the fallen piece. TPOs are quite rare in the US.
  13. " Inspections were insufficient to identify and ameliorate the potential for harm / damage. " What does this mean? In all the years of complaints and inspections, no one specified a bracing job aka a cable? Why not? And the owners/managers of the building could not just exercise self-help by having the overhang reduced? Why not? Sorry to be so clueless but this all around seems daft to me.
  14. How many reams of paper and how many meetings would it take to care for that TPO beech tree?
  15. How was the standing remainder of the tree managed? Shame that no one went up there to reduce those laterals and tie the trunks together somehow; old climbing rope, or really nice video; a shout out to Al Kraus of Independent Tree of Ohio, US. Al gave his time and resources to our regeneration pruning research at Biomechanics Week 2016 and was much fun to work with!.
  16. Thanks; pictures speak a multitude of verbiage. Surprising how smooth-barked beech tolerate fill--the one here had 1m of red clay on the uphill side for 19 years before I cleared the flare; never missed a beat. http://www.historictreecare.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Detective-Dendro-The-Case-of-the-Wonderous-Washboard.pdf
  17. The German ZTV standard calls for exchanging soil with "Permanently pervious aggregate", which retains water. Google Leca (expanded clay) or stalite (expanded slate). Indigenous folks here chose volcanic soils to farm in; it retains water due to its porosity. I seldom see trees that are unsalvageable; what are the criteria for that judgment?
  18. treeseer

    Poles

    And here is a tele-scalpel--7m pole is <4 lbs. https://www.lstik.com/
  19. treeseer

    Poles

    Poles are indispensable for specified reduction of large spreading trees.They help prune trees better (smaller cuts that no human body can get to) and make a lot more money. Here's a look at using them: http://www.historictreecare.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/PolePruning_2008_06-1.pdf You can even prune adjacent trees: http://www.historictreecare.com/services-2/polesaw-horizontal-small/
  20. Can a digger avoid root damage??
  21. A shovel is a good tool.
  22. Tree in the last 2 pics here is 90%+ hollow. I got lots more. http://portal.treebuzz.com/regenerating-hollow-trees-for-life-815 Ever been to Amritsar?
  23. Yes simply spread gravel and raise the grade. The "root shaving" idea is bad. Don't believe the ISA BMP and their styrofoam backfill plan; it's whack. Gary, if you have documentation of decay, that might help change the BMP on the next revision.
  24. Sprouts from dormant buds are endocormic, secured by pith trails, compacted xylem, and vascular connections. Newly-formed buds that sprout are Epicormics, which become more endocormic over time. My biggest pet peeve? Defensive tree risk assessors who condemn trees for no good reason.
  25. As long as woundwood is continuous and reasonably vital, strength loss may be minimal, so I wouldn't reduce a lot.

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