Arborist

Thanks Madmat that would be helpful, I was sure that I had seen them before and I cant find my stihl catalogue.

I have got a large job to clear some over grown ditches and i could do with some chainsaw protective waders! Does any one know if stihl or any one make them.

That's OK Steve, After I posted the thread I thought of the copy wright. Agree with you that it would be a bad idea to put on this forum but if any body wants a copy I could email. Seen a guy on ebay selling them for £9

Apparently he kept getting it stuck in the tree so the last time it happened he couldn't be arsed to climb back up to get it!

Find out for you if you want, proberly be somewhere in Berkshire LOL.

I know someone that got so pi**ed off with his, he left it up a tree.

Blimey! that could have easily been fatal. He was lucky to have had a second ancre point.

What was faulty about them, did any body have an accident?

The individual doesn't have to pay all that, that's what they get from the government-local authority.

Well when you come to do your chipper give us a shout and ill give you a hand if you want.

I was told that each student at merrist wood is worth £5000 per year to them. That's why there there so many school messing about on the courses.

Far from Merrist wood Guildford.

Whats the bark selling telho, you buy it in to sell or strip it off timber your self?

How about split fuel tanks like military land rovers, white for traveling on the road and red for running the mog when chipping.

Come to think of it thats very true, good point!

You got the clamp off of orange plant? I thought it was made by lincmasters! I rang them up and they emailed me the catalogue the pics looked the same. Is there any difference? Id suggest that if you want to paint your machine talk to Graham at Orange plant and order the bit you need bearings etc then do it when your quiet. Where abouts in the country aer you?

What part of the machine do you want painted? Just painting the machine proberly wouldnt increase the value, but I totaly refurbed mine and if i sold it I would get back every penny that i had spent on it. Not bothered about that tho as its going to be looked after and kept. Going to order a wheel clamp like yours on the 2nd.

Hi telho, Powder coating is cheap its not time consuming like painting a car for example. To have my machine powder coated it cost me all of £315, that included grit blasting, priming and the powder coat. The only thing is if you want the whole machine painted you are going to have to strip the whole machine down, which isn't that hard. If you were to get any work done id recommend stripping the old powder coat your self first as removing powder coat by grit blasting is quite hard if what your trying to remove is in good condition and if they charge you by the hour your costs will go up. Post some pics.

In Camberly? thats 5mins from me. I went in there once to change some chainsaw trowsers that i had. Did you see all the old saws in the reception. Know that you have reminded me of the place i just remembered the rather nice girl that sorted me out.

You might be able to as I bought the TIS disk off ebay which is a basically a workshop manual.

Ill give that a try tomorrow. Marc what do you think, good book? Do you have the carb one or any others?

OK this may be a better approach ill scan them in then if any body wants them i can email on to them, or when Steve is back i can email to him and he might be able to put then up. What do you think, anyone want a copy?

I have both these manuals both are very informative and hold a lot of information. I want to be able scan the pages in then post them in a thread so every one on hear can reference them, if that's OK. Only problem is i don't know how to get them in the thread as they look in the book. Tried in the banana bar thread but didn't work, can any one help please.

3.9.2 Straightening on a press 3.9.3 Opening the groove / STIHL guide bars are spring hard. When bent slightly within their resilient range, as can I occur during normal operation, the bars spring back to their original shape. However, if force is applied a bar will remain permanently bent. If the defor¬mation is only slight, the bar can be straightened. It is essential to first check the whole bar for any signs of cracks, especially at the point of deformation. The bar is un¬serviceable if cracks are found. There are several ways of straightening the bar. If this is done in a press or a vice, the bar must be supported at two points equidistant from the cen¬ter of the bend. Pressure is then applied to the center of the bend until the bar is straight and re¬mains straight after pressure is released. Finish straightening is per¬formed on a levelling plate with a hammer until the bar is per¬fectly flat in the rail area. The groove width is then checked by placing a piece of chain with the correct drive link gauge in the groove and pulling it around the bar. If the drive link tangs catch or stick at any point, the groove must be opened as necessary. Once straightening has been finished the bar must again be checked for cracks which may have been caused by straightening. If any cracks are found the guide bar must not be used again even though so much time and effort has been invested. A pinched groove can be opened by means of a groove drift which matches the speci¬fied groove width. This is done by clamping the guide bar in a vice and inserting the drift in the groove at an angle of about 45° at a point where the width is still correct. A hammer is then used to knock the groove drift through the pinched portion of the groove. If the groove is badly distorted, it may be necessary to repeat this process several times until the chain can be pulled along the bar without resistance. There is a risk of cracking the guide bar during this process, particularly at the nose of hard tipped bars. For this reason the guide bar must be examined for cracks after the groove has been opened. If any are found, the bar must not be used again!

Glad you like my new avtar, the other one didn't go down to well! When i was getting the chipper panels re powder coated I wasn't sure whether to get the original chippet yellow or bring it up to date with the TW orange as I had the paint code for both. The only problem with this was that I would of had to order a whole box of either powder and would of cost a lot more wheres a much smaller amount was needed so i decided to keep costs down and go for a stocked colour. I thought green would be a better colour for the chipper but not to dark though! I looked on the shops colour chart to see what they had in stock and went for yellow green, what do you think? I have never used a greenmech, herd be things about them tho but that was on the older machines but seeing as i haven't used one I dont have a opinion. Saying that dont think the TW are that good, it hates conifer and you spend a oad of time cutting side branches off. It does its job, beats stacking brash on the truck and is paid for. Ive used a old gravity fed arbor eater that was 10 years ago, Bear cat, Whats peoples opinions on these,? Schiseling, Chippits and TW 150.