rbtree

Here's a link to a slide show...

Well, there was no snow in the work zone anyhow.... awesome day, big, challenging tree, crack crew, we whipped it out, no doubt! [ame] [/ame]

If you do that, put the side cover back on, or the clutch could spin off. not a good thing!

Al, Husky solved the oiler problem years ago..

7.2 oz versus 7.8 oz......no big deal..... I get plenty of run time out of mine.

Not by me, in pm, or on this thread. Any time two trees weigh 30 tons, they are biiiiggggg!! I just went out and performed the stick trick on my tallest douglas fir. When I moved in to my home in 1985, it was maybe 8-10" dbh, and 40 feet tall. It is now about 105'.....and it is small for conifers in my 'hood. (Washington State) good work, buzz and crew...now everyone relax, eh?! By the way, I'm soon purchasing a laser. That'll take the guesswork out of distance/height calc's.

i had its predecessor, the 154 SE, prolly the same saw.....I'd imagine that my 357 would out cut it..... in stock form...but, of the 2 357's I've had, I've never run them stock, but with full woods mods. Then, they'll whip up on a 460, 440, 372 if those are stock.

Tim, look again. The butt log alone looked to be 24 feet or so... I'd guess they were 90-100', judging by the time it took for the chunks to drop, and from estimating the height, using the climber as a gauge. Easy trees but insane drag. 6 foot, though? maybe at ground level....but were they even 4 feet where the felling cut was made?

too late to edit the last post....so I do recall the speed line was too slack a coupla times....but we remedied that by pulling em up and out, eh? I think that first cottonwood was more like 175, eh, Reg......

Hi guys..... We did crane the wood out. But the drop zone had two much in the way to consider craning the brush....which would have meant craning too many limbs, which would have cost too much in crane time. Originally, I thought I'd crane the tops, but we rigged em all....there was an Indian longhouse directly under the tree. Omar wasn't doing a great job at transitioning the GRCS from hold mode to run mode.....I never bothered trying to correct that fault. The job was a lot of fun, though....it was maybe 16 months ago. Later, when I was in the tree, I think things went smoothly. The other job, there was a reason we let some of those limbs drop so far. One was to limit shock loading on the speed line, another, if I recall correctly, was that the speedline point was quite a ways away, even in the other tree, for some of the cuts. So we just let them drop, then backed the pickup up to lift them out of the blackberry infested uphill slope. There was no reason to have a lowering/control line, which would have required more manpower, and a guy under the action, never a good thing with brittle cottonwood. Reminiscent of this job where we lifted the brush right off the ground.... [ame] [/ame]

[ame] [/ame] With this one, we simply used my pickup truck to take the bight out of the speedline, which lifted the branches up and out of the hole. don't suggest tree entry the way we pulled Dave back up, tho......heh

[ame] [/ame] On some of these limbs, the guy on the lowering/control line was too slow in letting the line run. He had the line on the GRCS....but we rarely used it, save for a few lower limbs that needed lifting. On most of those that needed tension, we supplied that with the chipper winch on the speedline which allowed the back and side limbs to be swung around to the drop zone. This requires the speed line be tip or at least mid tied, whic creates a bight in the speed line, which was then pulled out with the winch. Then, as the load nears the LZ, we slacked the portawrap which was attached between the chipper winch line and the speedline. Alternatively, we could have just slacked the chipper winch. A few times the portawrap was out to far, and the slung branches stuck on it. It's always faster to be able to just let the branches fly....but that requires a whole mess of slings...which we have, or course.

Rookies, the lot of ya's......

If you don't mind me jumpin' in, here's some local flora and fauna....... oh, and hydraulics.....

Nice work, Steve..... Any usable timber, for woodworkers etc? looked like some good spalting, maybe not too much rot? Makes life easy when you got so much room, eh?

100 feet up is low around these parts...and I doubt that limb was about to break off. Where Gord lives, there's more big trees that in my area, around Seattle. It's rare for me to be up over 160 feet, or in a tree over 5 feet dbh. I know he enjoys dismantling biggies, me too. Cheers

monkeyd, we do a fair bit of snagging. My guess is, that fir, even though it has a slight lean, will stand for many years. Risk is way low. But normal SOP is to allow 1.5 tree lengths from the snag to where structures or paths, etc are....

why would Gord have been "crapping himself"? Or why would there have been "no skin of his knuckles" Neither comment makes any sense at all. "What does "enjoy a good pollard" hgave to do with doing that work and creating a habitat snag? By the way, pollarding isn't much done around these parts.....and prolly not at all where Gord works, in semi-rural BC. You guys say some funny things.....

Wedges are fine....besides, the lean was favorable, pretty much. As far as using a big saw....I might have had a 660 up there.....36" bar, but any bigger is really a pain to maneuver, especially at 120 feet up. But since I runported saw, a 372 or Dolmar 7900 w/32" would be my first choice. That's about what Gord was using, tho prolly stockers....

That was an old growth Douglas-fir. And Gord stated that it needed to be climbed. It would have done damage to the woods nearby had it been felled.

Totally untrue. I've been running Huskys for 25 years, with no problems. The 441, like the 361, has copied Husky in using steel springs. So now they're smoother than older Stihls.

If I do so, and take pics, will you bear with me and let me in on the secret:001_tt1:

I've never run a 395, as it is abt 1.5 lb heavier than a 660--which I will only run with a dual port muffler, which bumps it up to 7.7 hp. Many love the 395, and say it is torquier and faster than a 660...I doubt that, with the 660 d.p. cover anyhow.... I run Stihl, Husky, and Dolmar, they're all good saws.

I've heard the 192T isn't available in Britain. I have three, love them for the weight and price...bought them all used (2 were like new) I won't run them stock, but with a ported muffler the saw really wakes up, and will just about keep up with a bone stock 200T or 338--in wood under 6 inches or so. My other one is fully woods ported and a bit faster, but not enough to warrant the $150 it cost for the port work. As far the the 200T goes, yes it's the best climb saw. But I'm partial to the 338. The new ones have worked out all the bugs, and run very well. They do need to have the muffler ported to really come alive. My current one comes in red and black--the Jonsered 2139T (same saw) and easily beats the 200T, is cheaper, and lighter..not balanced quite as well, true.

Yup, needed it and the Hobbs, as you saw, both working in unison.