benedmonds

The issue is that we generally use the term pollarding when lopping or topping mature trees. True pollarding definitely has its place and even lopping/topping can be pretty successful in certain circumstances. Willows for example.. From BS 3998. 7.10 Pollarding If pollarding is to be carried out, it should preferably start soon after the tree has become established and is between 25 mm to 50 mm in diameter at the selected height of pollarding (often 2 m to 3 m). The initial pollarding cut should be made at a height which reflects site usage but which, if possible, allows some of the pre-existing foliage to be retained, in order to maintain physiological function and thus reduce the probability of dieback or death. If the tree divides into a number of stems or branches below a height of 3 m, these should be individually cut so as to initiate a “candelabra” framework. If the stem has attained a diameter of more than 50 mm, but less than about 200 mm at 2 m to 3 m height, pollarding may still be initiated. The tree should be cut at or near the same height as a younger tree, but extra care should be taken to retain some existing branches. Larger trees should not normally be treated in this way (see Annex C for severe cutting for special purposes). Once initiated, a pollard should be maintained by cutting the new branches on a cyclical basis. The frequency of the cycle should be decided according to site management objectives, species, age, condition and/or any product that might be required. Selective cutting, whereby some of the pollard branches are retained within each cycle, should be chosen if this would help to prevent dieback and decay in the stem. Branches that grow after pollarding should normally be cut at their bases in order to encourage the formation of a knuckle after a number of cycles. If, however, the pollard cycle has been allowed to lapse over many years, the crown should instead be reduced (see 7.7) to the minimum necessary to fulfil current objectives. These could include the relief of any mechanical stress that would otherwise be likely to cause the stem to split apart. Even if the stress on an old pollard branch is severe, it should not be cut back to the knuckle, since the removal of all its attached foliage would probably lead to physiological dysfunction and decay. It should instead be shortened by cutting just above a suitable lateral branch [see Figure 2, R©], or failing that, by retaining a live stub from which new shoots could grow. If crown reduction would be insufficient to safeguard those branches that are most likely to fail, they may be reduced to stubs in one operation (a “pole thin”), while the remaining branches are shortened so as to retain enough of the leaf-bearing twig structure to sustain the tree. NOTE Retention of live stubs on lapsed pollards will often help to reduce the risk of serious dysfunction and hence decay and weakness developing below the knuckles. Cuts should be made below the knuckles only in exceptional circumstances, e.g. to prevent catastrophic failure.

I guess I can't call him an apprentice any more... I think this will work.. https://www.facebook.com/adam.barker.1466/videos/1076197562398949/

I think death is unlikely, but digit loss... probable...

You also have to board them out. A gas axe will cut through the steel then they need a different tool to get through ply.

One of our guys ended up in A&E with a hairline fracture to his jaw after a log bounced up and hit him in the face.. We use a PTO kenilworth saw & hydraulic splitter- The splitter is fixed to a post in the barn and we run both machines at the same time. Arb waste can be dropped at the back of the tractor, the long stuff is split to billets and then cut on the saw bench or if short enough the rings just split. It is a pretty efficient and safe way of dealing with the different size arisings we have. Previously the guys used to spend allot of time cutting rings with chainsaws on the log pile, this ended up with lots of blunt chains and potential dangers of using a saw to cut up small logs..

I am impressed with mine!

I was just going to buy another tikka but read the reviews of the Nao online so decided to spend the extra... I use mine for running and the battery on full beam will only last about 2hrs but it is amazing. If I worked nights I would have a couple of spare power packs, if you don't use it on full power it can last ages and you can download ap app and programme it to how bright you want it. As torches go it is pretty cool...

I recently misplaced my petzl tikka and brought a very expensive petzl Nao It is ammazing: The integrated light sensor is oriented in the same direction as the eyes; it measures and analyzes reflected light in order to instantly and automatically adjust the headlamp's beam pattern (wide and/or focused) and light output to the user's needs. The shape of the beam and the power of the headlamp instantly adapt to the need (lighting for close, medium or long-range vision), so the user always has the right amount of light. Lithium Ion battery recharges easily with the integrated USB connection.

He wasn't unlucky with a piss taker firm...

Thats how you start... If you are paying attention I am sure you are learning more than you think..

Why do trees have to be grown to their maximum size. Every day I go to peoples gardens who say this tree is too big, and we remove it. Where is the problem? Silver birch is the classic example they grow fast but don't respond well to punning. Plant them let them grow for 20-30 years remove them. They need very little maintenance in those early years and provide pleasing all year interest. The alternative would be to try and maintain a trees size by reducing every 5 years which is expensive and the tree ends up butchered. Or just end up planting boring sorbus... I see NOTHING wrong with planting trees with the potential to get huge in your moderately sized garden but planning on removing them after 40 years? If you are really smart and have space you can plan it's replacement and plant a tree 5 years before you plan to remove your original.. We have digressed from the OP.

Why? It has not caused any damage, it looks healthy, the owner likes it. I see NO problem planting trees that have the potential to outgrow a space. When it get's to big remove it. The advice to only plant trees that won't get to big restricts you to planting a very restricted range. Young trees generally don't need a lot of maintenance. Grow them till they get to big then remove it. Then plant another..

We had this issue last year when it got really cold, the chippers stopped working! The supplier said it was winter fuel but the chippers still clogged up. We ended up using white during the cold spell. We tried additives but that didn't seem to help. We changed supplier and they have told us it is winter fuel again, but we had issues again this week with our first cold snap. Two chippers totally stopped only to work later in the day when it warmed up.. Our new supplier has said there is a higher grade diesel that is a bit more expensive that we can use, but it's a bit rubbish that we have ordered winter fuel and have a full tank of the stuff that will clog our chippers when we get a frost. Anyone have any solutions that work...

I am surprised there has been so much discussion on here. I thought all would agree that the neighbour was at fault and could be held liable..

The neighbours actions caused them to fall over. They were responsible. I am no lawyer but if you are responsible for an action that was perfectly foreseeable then I think you could be liable for any damage and to make good.. Why should that matter.. in your opinion its a scabby hedge but the owner may have liked the screen it gave or whatever.

They weren't 2m high though.. and they wouldn't have blown over if the neighbour had not removed the garden. IMO the neighbour is responsible for the trees falling over and the tree owner would have every right to pursue the neighbour for the removal and replacement costs.. Had anyone been hurt or serious damage caused this could have got really messy, with lawyers being the only ones to do well out of it..

It's coming out.. ganoderma brackets at the point of failure on the main stem apparently..

I saw that.. Saves me the effort of writing up the quote..

Got this to do in the morning

Yes did she call you for a quote?

This has all the prerequisites for a neighbourly dispute...

Any other views?

There are no ostioles visible..? Does that make a difference?

Try Bruce at [email protected]

I was quite happy with a diagnosis of Kretzscmaria then google showed me pics of Hypoxylon and the lack of any young white and grey made me have second thoughts... On a Beech Tree.