munkymadman

thats where you need a fitness instructor to show you correct technique's. it's easy for us to sit here and say what you should do, but really the physio should be telling you what exercises you should be doing. we don't know the extremity's of the damage, or which muscle/ligament/joint are damaged. as you said you might do more harm than good. that kung fu thing is quite strenuous. for damaged joints light weights with high repetitions, followed with some slow stretching is best. maybe just try cycling until you see the physio

how vain have we become. what happened to the real woodsman of yesteryear

bernd strausser taught a really clever way of making a retrievable redirect with the end of your rope, a karabiner and a double pulley. based on the daisy chain knot. fool proof under weight. but i don't know how i'm meant to show you through writing. it's a fiddly knot so i only use it for bigger trees. so sorry i can't show you

i heard it rains alot in norway, so i was curious to how much it does here. on average ireland gets 187 days a year, but certain parts get 225 wet days a year. woo hoo we won, we won. actually hold it thats not something to celebrate. only if it was an olympic sport then maybe we'd win a medal

i used to think it was shoulders that packed older climbers in, but it seems to be the knees(a more fragile joint, and is used alot more), not too long after i fixed my shoulder, my knees gave me trouble. get on it now!!!! this goes for any injury. supplements are good for cartilidge and connective tissues, not a preventative. the most important thing is to build up the muscle around the joint. pain in the arse exercising, but effective. only if you could take a tablet instead. and yes it's the spikes. all that knee locking, and impact energy absorbtion

a men to that. this is why i never attempt to block lay, plumb the sink or fix the electrics. i don't know how, and i if i tried i'd probably only disappoint myself

i'm still happy i'm not with my old company, but i'm begginning to miss climbing. i enjoyed being under the pump, long days, training in my spare time to improve myself. now i'm back cutting grass. at least i'm making some money, it feels like a bit of a step backwards. i had this job today, i felt so sorry for this german fella, he obviously had no money(a writer). he actually had a tree that had fallen on his cottage but was still alive so he decided to leave it. but the cottage is slowly being smothered with trees. the light in the kitchen had to be constantly on. i charged him the bare minimum. there's always someone worse off than you.

but its exactly the same design as the 200t except for a few minor details such as the fuel is on the same side as the oil. and it's got a ring for the lanyard. so it's surely a top handle saw.

it would have to be pro because it's a top handle saw. and only trained professionals should use top handles.

don't worry about it bundle 2, i was laid off the other month. i went out with a smile. one door closes another one opens. now i'm working for myself and do some gardening on the side with my dad. make the same money and work less. no more listening to the boss or working on those days where you wouldn't put the dog out

thought this topic was dead and buried. didn't say you were ignorant steve, but that you shared my bosses ignorance on the matter. we can't all know everything so all of us are ignorant in different effects on different subjects. we all know the rules, and are trained to follow them, but peter is right some health and safety regs do seem a bit over the top at times and unneccessary. and are there to protect the inexperienced, ill educated and misfortunate people in our industry. personally it is important to know and understand all the risks, and be trained to modern day regs but after time you learn where and how you can bend the rules. yes i might sound like a blase cowboy. i rely more on gut instinct than anything else. e.g the speedlining technique. i'd gladly show it to you, and i bet you'd change your tune

when i was in northern queensland, the rule seemed to be the more the merrier. always a minumum of two groundies for small knock around work, the work was nearly always removals so for the day jobs i normally had 5-7 groundies. geez i worked hard. obviously there were times where i couldn't work fast enough, to keep em busy. it was like an army of ants below you. pushing you to take bigger pieces all the time. good fun

my boss was like that. we'd smash out some jobs, come back feeling all smug and waiting for a pat on the back. instead it was 'what are you doing back here already, how can i justify the cost to the client'. we were never given the price of the jobs, so never knew how long it was expected to take. very secretive that way. we've all worked for bigger firms, get to a day job know you'll have it done by lunch break, so just take it real easy, long breaks etc. everyones happy at the end of the day

it's not great at spear cuts, the piece starts folding away before you finish the cut. thats its only failing point. it would be interesting to know how many hours of work you could get out of it compared to the ms 200t. i still couldn't understand why so much cheaper. when i bought it, the ms 200t was going for $1500 while the ms 192t was going for $450. why would stihl develop it if it was going to decrease overall profits?

your website doesn't give prices

i like sitting at home in front of the fire looking out at the rain.

i don't know how many of you guys use this on a professional level, but i bought one once upon a time in oz (for the third of the price of the ms 200t)so i could do a big weekend cash job. brought it home, and i seem to use it more than the ms 200t now. i think its awesome. very light with still very impressive power output. obviously in the case of cutting larger wood in a bigger take down the more powerful saw takes gold(still able for it though) but for your thins, reductions and deadwoods, wins hands down IMO a must have. saves the shoulders

a colleague of mine who had alot more crane removal experience than me, insisted that snap cuts were unsafe, due to too many forces on the crane. because the crane pulls up to break off the piece it uses more power than necessary causing the piece to spring up, shock loading the crane. he reckoned you were better off doing a horizontal cut towards you 2/3-5/6 of the diameter in(tweaking the crane as you make the cut), then meet this cut with a diagonal downward cut(also tweaking the crane as you cut). so that once both cuts meet the piece just rests there, and is lifted in a gentle effortless manner. i don't fully trust it personally, but it does seem to work and seems so much more forgiving to the crane

it's funny there's all these rules and regulations, best practice procedures for climbing trees. but hedges is a law onto itself. as if health and safety turn a blind eye to it. wobbiling around on the top of a bush, with the saw only cm's from your body or otherwise at your full stretch as you hang onto something with your other arm. at least all the branches might break your fall

hmmm, smart trucks and company logo's are good for advertising if your seen at work. but the customer has given you the job based on your initial meeting. and will give you more work based on the finished product, and how close it came to the expectations of the client. look at the garden not the tree(unless the tree is the garden), listen to the client, and understand what type of people they are. give idea's of what you feel would improve the garden. what are the problems? convey your advice and idea's in an artistic fashion rather than a scientific one. whats always best for a tree is not best for it's surroundings. the more the client feels you understand them and can relate to them the better job you will do. the happier they will be and the more work you will get.

it's only not best practice because it's not a generally applicable procedure. i will only apply this to solid trees, you should never apply this to tree's with serious defects. i'm afraid your sharing my bosses ignorance on the subject. if you see it in action you'll understand that it's actually very controlled and efficient. of course your laying your trust in someone else. but all tree work is based on trusting colleagues. whats stopping me from accidently dropping a limb on someone? a professional arborist understands and is able to calculate risks. if you don't want to take a risk then don't climb a tree.

it's hard to convey sarcasm in writing, it always gets misinterpretated

firstly this isn't best practice, so be careful, trust the tree and the driver of the 4x4. simple set up, rope over a strong crotch then tie it off a third or more down the tree. tie the other end to the 4x4. making sure there's enough distance in front of the 4x4 so when theres slack in the system the line can reach all points in the tree for zipping. and enough room behind the 4x4 so you can get enough tension for clearance. i keep it simple just a load of lightweight slings and steel carabiners(helps slow the speed down a bit). roughly middle weight the sling on the limb. tension it so you see a slight uplift on the limb. you can otherwise back cut it so it tears off. put a felling cut in it or snap cut it, all depends on the wood. you can otherwise get the driver to snap it off for you or you can cut it off. for the back limbs you'll need the driver to snap it off for you.(make sure your out of the way, it can come off with some force sometimes). i only use a return, for low limbs that need to be tensioned high to clear the ground or for big branches/logs that need their descent slowed. and thats it

depends on what diameter your using if it's 12-13mm generally doesn't tend aswell, or maybe your rope was resting on a load of limbs below you.

sorry i misinterpruted the "?".