18 stoner

Its the outer thats forward, but thinking about it, there's 3 different sizes for the 660, so if you come to order them through your dealer, you may be able to get the longer dog for the inner of your saw, it may(if you're lucky) about the same length when fitted but its a bit of a guess:blushing: If you want I'll take more pics of it with side cover off tomorrow if you like, I've had too much wine and the googlies might get me if I venture outside at this time of night:laugh1:

Yeh, not sure about the 390, never been involved with one to be honest. But yes, I was guessing at 7mm, but they are from the 660 so guess the alignment is slightly different. All that happens after drilling the hole for the shaft is the outer dog is slightly forward. Its purely cosmetic though, as when you think about it, its usually not in uniform and flat timber(ie, either one dog or the other has better purchase) so never had a downside when used in anger.

The roller shaft has one nut on it. This end is best on the clutch cover side. The other end of the shaft just slots into the hole in the other dog so no unbolting needed when removing the cover. As for its location, it's no where near the static type you have stripped the thread on. It sits only in the bottom of the dogs, therefore giving much more clearance below the chain, hence why they never bung up with chip.

The biggest trouble is, you cant get an outer dog the same size as the standard inner one, hence why I went for the bigger pair from the 660. Only issue is the outer one is about 7mm further forward on the saw than the inner one when fitted to the 360. I would assume its the same on the 250/260 but one hole soon lines up the roller shaft.

You have two bits of info slightly mixed up there mate. The 192t was never imported to the UK. Well not by Stihl dealers anyway! Parts however, can be imported for you by your dealer. Having the part numbers for the items you need helps a little though:thumbup1:

Ok, been and had a look. My 660 has the outer felling dog(or "bump spike" as stihl call them) with part number 1122 664 0500. Depending on the age of your saw, it may have this fitted from new. If so, all you need is the roller kit I mentioned earlier, all assuming you want to go down this path. Ok, looked at the 260, and my old 360 thats fitted with a roller. The 260 clutch cover does have the pre drilled holes the same as the 360, and appears to share the same part number on my pdf. Also shares the same part number for the inner dog. I did fit an outer dog to my 360 and roller catcher, but it appeared at the time there was no outer dog for the 360, so got a 660 one(listed above). This was much bigger and needed an inner one from the 660 to match up better. When both dogs were fitted, the outer one pertrudes slightly forward meaning the holes for the roller shaft dont line up correctly. All I did was drill a hole in the inner dog directly opposite the hole in the outer one, then fitted the roller. All this said about the 360 should transfer to the 250/260 if you wanted to do it, but these dogs from the 660 look huge on the 360! They will fit with some thought and drilling one hole for the roller shaft, but the difference exhausting chips is brilliant. Since fitting the rollers, I have never had either saw bung with chip. For Wisewood, 660 with roller catcher fitted; For ACG, 360 with roller. Note the pre-drilled hole next to the one I drilled and fitted the roller in line. .

I'll go out and have a look if you like, I have a couple of 260's on a shelf somewhere. Can tell easily if they have the holes for the dogs in the clutch cover.

You need the felling dog on the outer cover. The roller fits between the two dogs. Guess it all depends if the particular saw has a felling dog available. The part number for 660 roller is 1122 650 7700 The felling dog will need to match your inner dog though and there a few different ones, so double checking is needed otherwise the holes for the roller pin dont line up. The roller part number is same for all 660 though

Fit a roller catcher, will help stop the saw bunging up with sawdust too:thumbup:

"So do they let you take the stuff to the tip then?"

You're not using it to stop with are you john? Or do you mean it sticks on after you've used it?

Worth bearing in mind when mine are shot. Anyhow Mendip Jon, how you doing with your drum? .

That really does look well, credit to you. Whats the tyres you have on there, they look useful?

I notice you cut the buttresses before the fell. Although in this case I see you didnt cut much width off the actual hinge, it can reduce the amount of holding wood. My point is, the outer extremities of the hinge are the most crutial when relying on a hinge, and if bottling a stem over, this is usually due to a bad lean or back lean on a stem, therefore the widest hinge is preferred. Not meant as a criticism, just a point I noticed. I know some folk always cut toes off, sometimes just out of habit, and obviously the times when there's not a big enough saw to hand.

Cant help with the part mate, but I think this is the part No. you're after; 1137 647 5701

A lot of pride and time gone into that one! Very well done:thumbup1: Ant pics of it finished?

But, after owning many, many landys in various ages, shapes and sizes Ive never found a need for a "better" one:confused1: But how does a disc instead of a drum stop the roll? Have I misunderstood how these things work? Surely the brake is either applied or not, if there's lash in the brake it needs sorting, disc or drum? Like you mate, I think I'm missing something:confused1:

So whats the benifits?

What ever is best fit on your stove mate! If logging "precious" timber was a crime, I'd of been given life years ago. My advice would be either; Stack it in a corner seperate from your run of the mill firewood if you have space. Either log it if you get short of other stuff, or put it in price if a "turner" asks for it. Do not offer it for sale and ask for offers, you will get insulted. If you want to sell after being asked, ask for a real price, if they dont like it, they walk. Otherwise, log it first and enjoy it yourself:thumbup:

Cosworth, dont want too sound critical as it obviously went well, but do you always cut the toes flat? Personally never like to reduce the width of any hinge, let alone one you were depending on while pumping the jack.

Its actually listed on my pdf as Japanese. There's also mentions of US, AUS and CAN in some of the other Stihl pdf's I have.

With an uprated 110(3500kgs) you may carry just over a ton legally. A 130 set up the same will be less. My chip box will carry 5 cube, thats with a tool box in it. I guess thats around 1.5 to 2 tons of chip. I dare say I could get nearer 2.5tons of firewood in it. I'll see if I can get some pics dug out of it later.

Cheers Reddog, mine's the American one Carl. C1Q-S103 Stihl# 1137 120 0600 The other one above with the "J" at the end is the japanese market carb. A little rarer I gather.

In what way do you mean small? I have a large tool box built in to my 110 and can still overload it easily.

Going to have a look Jon, cheers:thumbup1: