18 stoner

Once dropped mine on a long strop, bounced my spikes out, thought i was goin down the stem:scared1: Sorry for derailin, my bad:blushing:

I need to be feeling brave myself before i get that old girl out nowadays:banghead:

If you wanrt to stop it shooting Tommy, open the cut up all round the base of the stem, then fill it with salt, should stop it for good. Looks like you are turning out some really nice stuff yet again, did you get the tennis elbow under control? Keep up the good work Tommy, you really are gifted.

I do still have a stock Husky 288 if you fancy climing with it:001_rolleyes:

From what ive been told, they are probably the most accurate aid there is Bob, not used one myself, but you still need a certain amount of skill to keep the angles correct. Good for depth control though.

Sorry Bob, couldnt help but tease ya:001_tongue:

So, do i win a prize at 11'6" being the nearest, like 4 tranny loads of hardwood logs?

11'6":sneaky2:

That Marc, was the whole reason why i started the thread! Some people think a new chain is as sharp as it can ever be and others really dont care! I really think its a poor thing that there is much talk of regulation, technique and stuff like whos climbed or felled the biggest tree, but very few know how to sharpen a chain to perfection! Perhaps some of us should look at more advanced maintainence methods to produce more efficient and safe practice. There only ever seems to be basic standard training on such though.

Might as well use a depth guage then if you're using something to protect cutters anyway:sneaky2:

Talk about petrol heads, guess they have to find something to do, they have no trees!

Heating oil can be run in diesel engines and lube oil added for those needing pump lubrication, but it is tax evasion so therefore illegal to run on the highway. And Vosa can tell the difference between heating oil and derv!

Spot on Marc, my thoughts exactly! In my eyes there are 3 different types of mechanical aids; Any file guide that clamps the file at either end. These have a tendency to allow the file to flex, often ending up with the file digging too deep, leaving a cutter too sharply pointed. The roller type that sits on the bar. Great for good depth control but still depends upon the user to keep two dimentional alignment correct. Electric grinder type. These are great for any large set up, or salvaging a really trashed chain, however, they still will only sharpen as good as a new chain. Anyone think of another thats better? The freehand as Marc says does take some mastering, but in my opinion is more accurate once learned.

Great job and pics Ed, bet you will be ready for a hol after this one! Is it my mate Jim on the chipper... He will keep you right:001_tt1:

Ive got plenty of Branston!

Ok, let you into a secret....... Although i do use a depth guage regularly, i never use a round file guide! I find the guides are not accurate enough as they give a little, but the depth is crutial and cannot be wrong with a guide. As a result I can sharpen a chain sharper than new:001_smile:

Think a 3/8 file might be a bit big to start with though:sneaky2: Think you mean 7/32:001_tongue:

Oh, you guys should always use a depth guage! Gives an even cut to every cutter, therefore longer life, optimum cutting performance, and, SAFER!

Should always sharpen first! The idea of the rakers is to give a set depth of cut, and whenever you file back cutters, because of the lowering slope of the cutter, you adjust the depth of cut. The cutters should be sharpened, then the rakers re-set. Therefore setting depth guage prior to sharpening is putting cart before horse!

Yeh, fair enough Stevie, i had a mentor similar to yours, some 20 years ago. Poor guy passed away now, way before his time, would have been nice to have worked with him a while longer, but thats how life goes. The way i see it, there seems to be little in the way of advanced maintenance knowledge, tips and advise when it comes to saws, whereas, there is when it comes to legalities, climbing tchniques, safety and legislation. Afterall, we are taliking of the tools of our trade, they are in a physical way, what earns us our keep. So why not have them running in the best possible way, extending life of such, and creating an easier tool to use for the operator. So, the reason i asked is sometimes you can try too hard by pressing the file into the cutter when using a file guide, and therefore the file bows slightly, and you end up with the type of pointed cutter that steve was talking about that seems very sharp at first but doesnt last long at all. Sounds to me like you are leaving it to your lad as an easy option, as you are not real good yourself. Just try and spend a bit more time on your own honing your skill, then you may be able to guide the young one better, once you have found better ways of sharpening.

Are you using a guide stevie? Perhaps the plate type holding the file.....

Seems to be more of a common thing at your side of the pond Butch. You guys seem to be extra particular:001_tt1:

Ok i have been a little sneaky, i admit. What i am trying to do is show that sometimes quality of grinding, as matty says is not upto scratch. Sometimes theres a variation in manufacture in how sharp they are. Some saw guys are more than happy with what comes out of the box. What my point is, is there is "sharper than new" and it is upto you guys to decide if you want to achieve this "true sharp" chain. I am just trying to draw attention to a little more time spent in the workshop and preparation of your gear. Believe me, just try checking the depth guages on a new chain before you run it, then have another think.

I didnt say sharpen a sharp chain, i said a new chain! Big difference!