Marc

As an example see the picture taken from the specification of a U1250, I know our larger square cabs (with the exception of one which has increased rear axle weight as built from the factory) of 6ton per axle making the vehicle 12 ton max permissible weight with the rear ringfeeder at ladder chassis height capable of towing 13ton on a balanced trailer with a certain amount of nose weight according to manufacturer specification, making it 25ton as a combination according to manufacturer specification. We also have a small kubota on a site that is road legal and registered as ag but there is no way you would get near the 31 tons with it, just because it's ag doesn't mean you can legally drive anything registered as ag to the maximum permissible weights. At the end of the day we all load and go, as long as it stops and gets up the hill she'll be alright. Legally I am not so sure...

What about the vehicles plated/designed weight? Is this exempt in ag use?

Of course it can be, but it's not uncommon for trees to have voids like the one in the yt vid and it doesn't mean it was unsafe.

I have tried hard to find this information out, from I can find your looking at 10-12ton with a balanced trailer. Newer Unimog (round cab) appear to tow more at 18ton when registered as a truck, when at 12 ton. In real life they can tow more we have tugged round 16 ton happily. In the eyes of the dvsa though...

It's really cool, usually not a safety issue I have felled a lot of 20-30m Poplar and this kind of cavity and heartwood void is common.

Depends, I had a second hand saw a year old no receipt which developed a problem took it to the dealer that supplied it he crossed checked the serial saw it was one they sold and sorted it under warranty no problems. You may find it difficult without a receipt and knowing supplying dealer as what's to say you didn't buy a stolen saw?

I don't see a problem?

Hi Paul whilst my heart goes out to the families and friends of those who lost loved one in these tragic events I strongly feel and engineering soloution/control is the wrong road to be taking. Having some insight to one of those who lost his life recently I feel training and also those that employ needing to look at supervision to prevent further deaths as being more useful to prevent further deaths.

The BC1200 does seem a more modern machine where as the 1000 and 1800 are long in the tooth. Saying that the Bandit design has changed very little over the years... We are fans of both Vermeer and Bandit, it's just seems Bandit have the greater choice in the UK at present particularly above 12"

60% of the time i get top anchor every time, the rest is spent in fits of emotion ranging from pure rage to self pity and actual tears. It was just an example, this is what I have gathered over the years, the Faltheimer Cubes are expensive so is Zing It but if you look after it (ie when it's stuck don't snap it out just get another line) they last a long time.

Just added up my throw line kit and it come to £382.50 without discount

Well i never, that would probably do as a start as it's a small investment. For me it all has to be the same, good throw lining is about being consistent. That kit would help to hone your technique. I like the Italians way of thinking, in tree work there is huge variation and opinion.

How many trees in the row? Like Mick says it easy to make arm chair quotes.

Wiley, spending out on a good harness you will not regret providing a career in Arb is not something you regret. I didn't realise Stein do a throw line kit for £25! Its something I suppose maybe better than nothing. The throw line to me is my most important tool it's how I access every tree unless I can scamper up it from ground level so I am biased. Thing is we each have our own way, as for the right way, the correct way, the only way it does not exist. My only advice would be buy a good harness, a chainsaw, then the bare minimum like a rope, 4 carabiners, Prussic cord, HitchClimber, cambium saver and flip line. That's all you need to start out then buy as you earn and learn. The other bits and bobs you have for mountaineering will probably fill the gaps.

Yes a fig 8 would make an acceptable bail out with the hitch just to back it up. I don't use a flip line, I do have one but it mostly stays at home as I find them cumbersome. To start out with though it's not a bad shout and you could use it all the time not just for flipping up poles. A good throw line set up will cost you nearly a months savings, I would probably skip that to start with. Don't get carried away to start with, if your serious do not scrimp on a Harness TreeMotion is a solid choice. Buying lots of kit now is a waste, I bought lots of kit then found I didn't like half of it and wasted my money. Buy a very basic climbing kit only to start with, and a top handle saw of your own. Then add to it as your learn and understand exactly what you want. I climb with surprisingly very little, the most expensive item in my kit bag is my throw line kit (2 faltheimer Cubes, 3 Zing it 1.75mm lines 2 throw pods and a selection of Weaver bags) Again I doubt much of your mountaineering kit is relevant to Arb, i have a lot of mountaineering kit the only bits I use are some tape slings and toothed ascendors.

4 Trees in total ? Could be 2 truck loads 485.00-615.00 plus vat at a guess

That's what I used to do, although I wouldn't wrap a few times just sling it round and choke, this will catch me in a fall for whatever reason but I doubt you would be able to descend quickly unless you have something to take some of the weight of your hitch/DdRT device.

HairyChest we will have to agree to disagree I do not find the skills transferable as tree climber is a lot about using the rope to your advantage and rock climbing is climbing rock/mountains, I have worked with a few apprentice climbers with solid rock climbing backgrounds and they are no different to someone without, I am also terrible and climbing mountains. What is important is aptitude, confidence and problem solving. Back on topic some of those small chippers particularly the JoBeau from Global look very good and should be a solid investment and hold their value well. Either that or buy a second hand 6" ********* or the like

Posting whilst drinking is my favourite past time, usually why I post such crap, to be fair the fact you have mountaineering experience really means nothing other than maybe a head for heights as it's a completely different skill set. The comments from some of us here are not to say you have to wait in line, most climbers are not elitist particularly the good ones only that there is a lot to learn even on the ground, watch and learn so to speak. You have to be driven though to excel fast, when I started I'd pull a shift then go climb some trees, then climb some more on the weekend - as well as do work for friends and family. The problem this is a commercial buisiness time is money and you will be painfully slow for a year or 2 and not be viable as a climber that's just reality - be patient.

Indeed it is, used a tunrtable one with 100hp Kubota great bit of kit, pricey I'd imagine and not as many about as the BC1000 we owned a couple of these they are okay and pretty basic but the single feed roller limits it a bit and it can be a pain to work on, older ones had drum issues and hearing issues if not well maintained. I like the Bandits because they are ugly and generally easy to fix/maintain with good performance.

In every way, not that a BC1000 is a bad chipper.

Get out there and drag some brash for another company, it's the best way to learn.

A lot can be learnt dragging brash so don't knock it, dragged plenty of brash myself today. I started out wanting to start my own business but it never happened partly because I wanted to be the best climber I could be, eventually I found I earned a good lick from it without any of the stress of trying to build a business which being honest with myself I wouldn't be good at... I am also a massive tree snob and only want to do the finest specimen trees. Anyway back on topic, to be honest some of the wee chippers look bloody good such as the JoBeau? chippers from Global. And the risk of going that road and doing the simpler weekend jobs to build your way is probably a wise route to take. That or buy a second hand 6" plenty out there.

Me to on the young bit, I don't think there is a right or wrong or essential way of doing this job, just whatever suits you best and the problems you face on a day to day basis. Your right it is a faff to put spikes on in the tree sometimes but like yourself I prefer to miss out the first spiked ascent particularly on chunky stuff get my line in then I'm good to go for the rest of the day. To be honest I have forgotten what the opening post was exactly, it's harsh to say but the reality is the kit cost nothing and you should never think how expensive it is if it makes your life easier go for it. I once had a real passion for kit hence I have a garage, attic and yard full of stuff, as time goes by I find I get more and more minimalist, that's just me and how I tackle the work I do. I climb SRT on everything because of boredom and like it because it liberated me of even more equipment (no seperate SRT access kit) not that I ever found using DdRT particularly difficult or any less efficient. I rarely climb these days anyway. I am rambling now.

Is SRT climbing essential and are foot ascendors with spikes?