Andy Collins

Though I hold little store in the value of various tickets, and I dont doubt your abilities, in this tight economic climate, you'd find it easier (maybe) to have a few tickets behind you. Is it not worth seeing if you can get on a basic course to get 30/1 at least? Any employer in this line of work will need to see saw tickets, someone who can drag and lift and saw would be more use to them. I wish you well, and hope you find something.

Congratulations Penfold:thumbup:

I know a couple who work full-time in firewood, one even employs 2 others. If you can get to harvest your own timber, process it and deliver it then I cant see why not. But like everything else in this game, it will be tough for a few years to get up and running, and to keep it running.

I have an Oleomac in for service for a friend, and the oiler appears to have ceased working. In the top of the oil reservoir, there is a small return spring that is broken. Not being familiar with this make, what does this spring do? Would it causing a non-oiling issue? Also does anyone know who stocks parts for the above make?

Builders bags of split willow/pop at local auction making 75-80, green as green.

Ah you aint lived, something nice abut picking out the ash as you eat:biggrin:

Tho sitting in some skanky caff is cheating a bit really, only a site-prepared full-on stunt-brekkie should qualify.

Mmmmmmm breakfast goooooood:eating:

Still impressed with Josh's brekkie pic:biggrin:

I remember one of my 1st conny hedge pricing boobs, I went and viewed it, measured it, thought carefully about waste disposal, access for A-ladder, and so on. What I didnt realise, due to the fact that it was a boundary hedge, was it was 3x wider than it appeared!! At least 3x more waste, I hadnt taken a long reach hedge-cutter, and the top was filled with a nest of vicious brambles, all along the centre. I just broke even on the job, but it was a slog to get it done. You will get a few wrong when pricing, hopefully not too many, until you get a feel for it. With conny, never under-estimate the volume of waste, price the job for at least 2 of you, nothing more soul destroying than struggling along the top, then having to come down and pull all the mess apart and drag it out.

Tc1, many of us are of the school of hand-filing, that is all we do. personally I have never felt the need to use a bench-grinder, but if you have one and decide that it gets you better results, then all to the good. I wil occasionaly use a Dreme with sharpening stones for bigger bars, but I wont rely on it, its a tool that does the job to restore a hammered chain, to save time on filing. BUT I wlll use a file 95% of the time. Now you posted about a problem with your bar, and people have taken the time and effort to respond to this issue, in order to help you understand what may be causing your problem. so you wnt help yourself by becoming all defensive over it. If I have a problem with a fell, I will analyze it by looking at the stump and trying to see why things went the way they did, and you can tell a lot abut the way the saw is used by inspecting the bar and chain. We are all trying to help with constructive criticism, please dont take it the wrong way.

It takes a lot of skill and judgement to get it right every time, or even some of the time. its one thing to read in the books or listen to the wise old sage telling you how things were done back in the day but to get out there and actually fell the buggers day in day out without one going wrong takes a lot of skill. I find it so exhilarating to get tree after tree dropping perfectly, then one hangs up and brings you back down to earth with a bang. One misread tree, one badly made cut, and everything goes to ratshit. love it.

Yes they do, I have a regularly-used footpath running up the side of the plot I'm on now, luckily there arent too many to drop, but I shall put in a pull-line to assist on those, along with wedges and anything else I have to hand. TBH I dont enjoy heavy back-leaners, and will ehaust all other options before trying to get them upright and down in the right space.

This has been a discussion I've had with pro-fallers in the past. In arb, many of us waste good wood (timber) with our gobs, many rarely even dress out the timber neatly. Our priority, (in arb) is to get said tree down in Mrs Smiths garden with the minimal amount of damage to ground and property, and perhaps the attention to felling techniques takes a back seat to successful removal. Having been in the woods on larch for timber for a couple of weeks, I've had to go back to basics and practice my techniques to get the best from the timber. Good fun, and hard work.

It may be cheating here, but if I was in doubt over a backleaner, I'd be putting in a pull-line to assist anyway, get the back weight off first, and do everything to ensure it would go where intended (maybe!!), and in a woodland environment you are certainly more spoiled for choice than in a domestic garden.

If you have the hinge in the first 1/4-1/3rd of the tree, the wedge/lever will have to go in further to lift and move the tree forward. The closer the hinge to the centre of the tree, the closer the wedge will be to the fulcrum, therefore you will gain more lift from wedge. Another advantage of the hinge being placed closer to the centre is the hinge is closest to the widest part of the tree, so should be stronger.

Well I try not to work up a sweat, but they are the aertex type fabric, so arent too bad. Obviously you gets what you pay for, but these seem a good compromise. Just checked, they are 100% polyester.

I got some Hi-viz polo shirts of ebay, about a fiver each, with logo option as an extra. cant remember the supplier, but they were a retailer.

Just worried that my back will go, its only good for 17.5stone:biggrin:

Pure genius!! simplest ideas are the best:thumbup:

Best you go on a diet then:biggrin:

Well i'd love to be generous but what with the economy as it is, and finances on felling being as tight as they are....well you know how it is, may be able to afford to buy you a half at the net show you're at.

This is from the HSE: Do employers have to provide personal protective equipment (PPE)? The relevant regulations are the Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations 1992. Regulation 4 states: Every employer shall ensure that suitable personal protective equipment is provided to his employees who may be exposed to a risk to their health or safety while at work except where and to the extent that such risk has been adequately controlled by other means which are equally or more effective. The accompanying guidance states: Employers should, therefore, provide appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) and training in its usage to their employees wherever there is a risk to health and safety that cannot be adequately controlled by other means. In order to provide PPE for their employees, employers must do more than simply have the equipment on the premises. The employees must have the equipment readily available, or at the very least have clear instructions on where they can obtain it. By virtue of Section 9 of the Health and Safety at Work etc Act 1974, no charge can be made to the worker for the provision of PPE which is used only at work. Section 9 of the Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974 states: "No employer shall levy or permit to be levied on any employee of his any charge in respect of anything done or provided in pursuance of any specific requirement of the relevant statutory provisions". Section 9 applies to these Regulations because they impose a 'specific requirement' - i.e. to provide PPE.

We found some nice dead oak today, perfect!! The chilli was not bad, bacon crisped up perfectly too. Happy days, and not a whinge or whine today:thumbup:

Galling. Sorry you had to suffer this time, its so wrong that we should be expecting it to be our turn next. what a load of crap, with the amount of stolen gear out there now, can hardly be a legit saw being sold 2nd hand. Hope you get up and running asap, and that the blighters get caught (some chance)