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Chinese milling.


Lazurus
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Sure as hell beats buying them. Best bit about milling timber yourself is that you get to mill it at the thickness you want instead of having to buy what the sawmill/ woodturning supplies shed have milled it at. You cant always buy what you want locally or you sometimes have to buy online and trust that the supplier isn't telling you porkies just to get a sale.

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Sure as hell beats buying them. Best bit about milling timber yourself is that you get to mill it at the thickness you want instead of having to buy what the sawmill/ woodturning supplies shed have milled it at. You cant always buy what you want locally or you sometimes have to buy online and trust that the supplier isn't telling you porkies just to get a sale.

 

 

 

 

 

And turners are stereotypically tight. :001_tt2:

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Ok so I am getting the bug now and want to fiddle a bit. As I said currently using out of the box chains with the usual 30 degrees angle. Without resorting to buying ripping chain what can I do to improve the standard chains, www says 15 degrees and a 10 degree off horizontal, is it really going to help my mill or am I just filing for the sake of it? Lastly what setting for the depth gauges do they need to be set slightly lower than normal.

 

Honest opinions please!!!!

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Ok so I am getting the bug now and want to fiddle a bit. As I said currently using out of the box chains with the usual 30 degrees angle. Without resorting to buying ripping chain what can I do to improve the standard chains, www says 15 degrees and a 10 degree off horizontal, is it really going to help my mill or am I just filing for the sake of it? Lastly what setting for the depth gauges do they need to be set slightly lower than normal.

 

Honest opinions please!!!!

 

I was too tight to buy a ripping chain and tbh the bar on my old Husky 350 is a bit short for serious milling so I took an old chain and ground the angle down to 15 deg and took "a bit" off all the depth gauges. Nothing scientific.

 

It made an immediate difference and if I was going to pursue milling properly I would look to ripping chain as being part of the investment - along with a bigger bar and chainsaw, some nice ally rails, something to hold the log, Aspen fuel (the fumes really got me) and on and on....:biggrin:

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In theory the smaller the angle, the slower the cut and the better the finish. I use granberg ripping chains in my alaskan and my lucas slabber. The finish is way better than a cross cut chain. But horses for courses. If your only making blanks finish is pretty irrelevant so stick to cheap. If you want to make boards then good finish can help. Especially on wide slabs that can't go through the thicknesser.

If your only doing narrow boars and you have a thicknesser then it becomes irellevant again.

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