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Posted

I'm repairing a Stihl 261 with a non-OEM piston and cylinder kit. It is all going OK, but I'm finding that the piston is nice and free at the bottom of the bore and gets quite tight at the top above the ports. Is it normal to have more friction at the top with a new kit. I didn't check the ring gaps before install and I'm wondering now if I should or go with it as is or take it apart. I'd be grateful for the word of experience.

 

Thanks, Dave

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Posted
I'm repairing a Stihl 261 with a non-OEM piston and cylinder kit. It is all going OK, but I'm finding that the piston is nice and free at the bottom of the bore and gets quite tight at the top above the ports. Is it normal to have more friction at the top with a new kit. I didn't check the ring gaps before install and I'm wondering now if I should or go with it as is or take it apart. I'd be grateful for the word of experience.

 

Thanks, Dave

 

Are you sure the bore is cleaned of any aluminium pick up from the last piston?

Posted

You pays your money and takes your chance, guess why the cylinder kit was cheap, because it sounds like the cylinder has some ovality, it should be smooth all the way up and down.

Posted

It is possible the rod is bent, did the piston slide up and down freely with no rings? Does it slide easily with rings? Does it only get tight when bolted down? Does the cylinder rock from side to side if the bolts are loosened up and the flywheel is pulled over gently?

 

What brand is the kit? I would only trust one brand of aftermarket kit 100%!

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