Clearing ground layer/understory of a small wood?

[benedmonds]

I have a client who has moved into a large house surrounded by about 3 acres of woods. They want to be able to "use the woods." I am not sure they know what for, but they want to be able to walk though it.. There is very dense ground cover, nettles, brambles, ground elder, ivy. One corner is has a lot of bluebells and they would like to encourage them to spread through to the overgrown bit. What is the best way to manage the undergrowth and make it "usable." They are not interested in pigs or chickens or anything like that. They are willing to pay a contractor to come in and maintain it...

[Andrew McEwan]

Big brushcutter and a mulching head I'd have thought to start with. Then a walk over survey, mark up/fell any horrors before they start having picnics under them, and float idea of thinning and planting up gaps if needed.

Edited May 16, 2016 by Andrew McEwan
typo

[benedmonds]

It's a biggish area to strim.. and I don't thing the ivy cover wouldn't strim that well... is there a walk behind mulcher?

[Stubby]

Tractor and topper / flail or similar .

[john k]

What is the age and composition of the woodland? In an established woodland the canopy should keep most of the brambles and nettles at bay. If you go for aggressive understorey clearance then you will also take out any tree seedlings that may be present.

 

I would be more inclined to look at putting the effort into improving the access with some paths and rides, possibly opening up a glade or two. This will improve the amenity value whilst benefitting biodiversity and having a more reasonable maintenance requirement.

[gooseflight]

I would cut some rides first with a flail. This will make the wood immediately accessible whilst you evaluate what's there.

 

If you use a trailed flail, e.g., behind an ATV, chances are you'll have ridden over or been stopped by anything major before it reaches the mower.

 

There are probably bluebells all over the place but hidden under the briars and nettles.

 

Once you've figured it out mow some bigger areas, drop any rubbish trees and the bluebells will soon multiply.

[Andrew McEwan]

Big difference between what a 555 on a mulching head and a strimmer will do Ben, and if too tight for the alpine tractor and flail I use a walk behind two wheel tractor with a flail. But my first step would be to clear some access and see what's in there in terms of hazardous trees and sort them.

[arboriculturist]

The grim reality is Ground Elder is there to stay unless you like herbicides, as are nettles. Brambles can be significantly reduced by cyclic cutting.

 

Letting the tree canopy close up will of course reduce the invasive weeds vigour but they won't accept that option.

 

I would use a walk behind flail and get most of it down to ground level. Treat the re-growth with Glyphosate in September with an added adjuvant.

 

Treat any secondary re-growth the following April.

 

Not the most eco approach but efficient and effective. Talk them through the benefits of standing and fallen deadwood and habitat piles - don't leave the place sanitised.

 

Patches of brambles and nettles can be accepted but some form of management is usually required.

 

Once they have used the woodland for a time they will understand what access is actually required.

Good luck

[MooresFT]

Get a tracked mulcher in there, mcconnel robocut or the like. Don't be put off by the price, it will get you back to square one and then you can assess what's there. Leaves a good finish and will go anywhere. Three acres like that, done in a day or two at most.

[gooseflight]

Treat the re-growth with Glyphosate in September with an added adjuvant.

I would whack the briars and nettles with SBK. Works better than glyphosate. It will weaken the ground elder. Repeated mowing will also deter the ground elder.

 

Worth noting that in a woodland setting the fresh green of ground elder against bluebells is quite appealing.