Pulleys and strops to use with a Tirfor?

[Stephen Blair]

you are catastrophising my ways within the debate, not everything we do with a tirfor and strops is going to end up with a huge tree going wrong and killing a household!

That's what I weigh up at a glance of turning up onsite.

That little box with the shear pins beside the extraction tool was lost years ago on a slippy wild garlic infested banking wrestling a dead elm tree over a house in the rain. The same place I lost a steel wedge in the undergrowth.

I look at the winch as the engine of the vehicle, if it goes you are screwed, if you get a puncture or the bumper falls off you can limp home.

That's it in my head as basic as I can type for you.

I would now be interested to see examples of your work to show me my ways are wrong and hopefully I will learn from you as I am always wanting to change for the better to make this job easier.

[R Mac]

you are catastrophising my ways within the debate, not everything we do with a tirfor and strops is going to end up with a huge tree going wrong and killing a household!

That's what I weigh up at a glance of turning up onsite.

That little box with the shear pins beside the extraction tool was lost years ago on a slippy wild garlic infested banking wrestling a dead elm tree over a house in the rain. The same place I lost a steel wedge in the undergrowth.

I look at the winch as the engine of the vehicle, if it goes you are screwed, if you get a puncture or the bumper falls off you can limp home.

That's it in my head as basic as I can type for you.

I would now be interested to see examples of your work to show me my ways are wrong and hopefully I will learn from you as I am always wanting to change for the better to make this job easier.

 

To be honest I don't care what procedure you adopt, the OP has purchased/is considering purchasing a winch exactly the same as I own, he asked about strops/shackles etc. I told him what I bought which is in line with the training I received and what the afore mentioned and linked to document states. I'm stating my understanding of why the recommended procedure is as it is. Feel free to disagree but that doesn't make my suggestion wrong.

 

Your analogy isn't strictly speaking accurate anyway, as I've already said the shear pin is designed to prevent your winch from failing.

 

I'm finished with this.

[Woodworks]

To be honest I don't care what procedure you adopt, the OP has purchased/is considering purchasing a winch exactly the same as I own, he asked about strops/shackles etc. I told him what I bought which is in line with the training I received and what the afore mentioned and linked to document states. I'm stating my understanding of why the recommended procedure is as it is. Feel free to disagree but that doesn't make my suggestion wrong.

 

Your analogy isn't strictly speaking accurate anyway, as I've already said the shear pin is designed to prevent your winch from failing.

 

I'm finished with this.

 

And your advice as been greatly appreciated. Along with the winch and some shear pins the aforementioned strops and shackles are in the post

 

Think I will give the pulley a miss for the time being. Looks like a hefty bull rope is the best way to add a pulley.

[Stephen Blair]

To be honest I don't care what procedure you adopt, the OP has purchased/is considering purchasing a winch exactly the same as I own, he asked about strops/shackles etc. I told him what I bought which is in line with the training I received and what the afore mentioned and linked to document states. I'm stating my understanding of why the recommended procedure is as it is. Feel free to disagree but that doesn't make my suggestion wrong.

 

 

 

Your analogy isn't strictly speaking accurate anyway, as I've already said the shear pin is designed to prevent your winch from failing.

 

 

 

I'm finished with this.

 

 

No pics then of the book you learnt everything from?

 

To the OP, by all means buy the tirfor you have put the link up to, depending on what jobs you take on it will do the job.

I was given 2 of them many years ago along with a 5 ton with no shear pins.

The smaller 2 let me down not only with the inconvenience of the shear pins but they just didn't have the power for relatively small jobs if things were stuck.

If you watch out on EBay or Arbtrader you can be lucky and pick up the larger tirfors and although clumbersome to carry they have the power and build quality to endure tree work.

 

I've had this tirfor for 17 years, the other 2 rotted themselves to bits and failed their lolers years ago.

The metal and make up just wasn't built to last.

[R Mac]

No pics then of the book you learnt everything from?

 

I said I was finished with this but feel I have to respond to the above (as you knew I would) Congratulations,

 

There are no pictures of the book I learnt everything from, there is a link to a publication though. Experience? virtually zero but I'm guessing you're playing a percentage game on the basis that I'm new here and likely a newbie, congratulations you're 100% right, you're vastly more experienced than me.

 

The thing is though I'm not offering advice based on my experience, rather it's based on the experience of,

 

A. The guy who trained me, ISA Qualified, Lantra & NPTC Approved, 25 years experience.

B. The guy who assessed me, Similar qualifications to the above

C. Tirfor & Lugall, Winch Manufacturers

D. Lantra

E. NPTC

F. HSE & Forestry Commission

 

I might be cocky and opinionated, arrogant even but I wouldn't go against the advice of the above.

 

This time I am finished.

[Haironyourchest]

For some reason I just love all this rigging stuff, very nerdy really, considering how little of it I actually do. There's an American crowd called Industrial Training International who put up webinars on Youtube and they are absolutely incredible. The detail and depth of the training is second to none, IMO, and its all free. Ive taken the liberty of linking to their Sling Failure webinar, its 2 hours long. If you are the kind of person who gets off on two hours of minutely analysing cuts in webbing slings, then this will float your boat. It starts slow, so give it a chance.

 

[ame]

[/ame]

[richy_B]

Lots of good advice on here already but I'll put my tuppence worth in. Definitely get some spare shear pins, I've broken loads on my t532(although I do use a longer bar).

 

I get all my strops from Damar. They are good quality and price.

 

I'd recommend getting 5 ton 'endless' slings. Get a few sizes atleast, 2 metres, 3 metres, 4 metres and 5 metres is good (half the size obviously because if the loop). Gives you the option of anchoring around some big trees (and not having too much slack/loose strop if you are on small trees).

 

http://slingsandstraps.co.uk/roundslings-5ton

 

I don't use snatch blocks or shackles with hand winches.

 

There is always a risk of the cable snapping (I've seen a few but never anything dramatic). You can dampen down the risk by putting some carpet/similar over the cable. It takes a bit of the energy out of it should it snap.

 

Hope that helps

[Jimbo 76]

Hi woodworks, you can run bull lines or cable through pulleys but the must be compatable. So for example no steel cables through aluminium etc.

 

But the point I wanted to make is understand the distinction between MBS and SWL.

 

A rope may be rated to 2800kg breaking strain but as its rope is safe working load is a tenth of that. Strops are devisable by 7 and steel cables by 5.

 

And without a doubt the sheer pin should be the weekest point in your set up. They are meant to sheer and be replaced. The winch has jaws that have non return so no danger.

 

Also another option cheaper and a lot lighter is a 5 to 1 hauler system stien do one.

 

Cheers James.

[aspenarb]

For the budding ticket harvester there is always this HSE Winch Management | LANTRA Courses | Driver Training | Training Expertise

 

Bob

[Stephen Blair]

[quote=Jimbo 76;1434966

 

And without a doubt the sheer pin should be the weekest point in your set up. They are meant to sheer and be replaced. The winch has jaws that have non return so no danger.

 

Cheers James.

 

It's my understanding that a shear pin is there to protect the winch it has nothing to do with creating a weak point in your winching operation as a safety measure!