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dolmar PS5105-H


Charlieh
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haha beat me to it. Outboard clutch; 1 positve, 9 negatives :thumbdown:

 

 

I'm not even sure how much of a positive it is. I see the better handling thing, but changing the chain and removing the clutch is much easier for me on an inboard clutch.

 

If I was given an inboard and outboard saw to use without knowing which was which I doubt I'd be able to tell the difference. D'you think you could?

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Im sure he scans the tinterwebs for any oportunity to extoll the virtues of the sacred 550 & 560 where Dolmar or Echo is mentioned

 

Give it an hour or so

 

I'm not even sure how much of a positive it is. I see the better handling thing, but changing the chain and removing the clutch is much easier for me on an inboard clutch.

 

If I was given an inboard and outboard saw to use without knowing which was which I doubt I'd be able to tell the difference. D'you think you could?

 

Inboard seems easier to swap chain & check/change/grease bearing etc, some outboard spindles have holes to lubricate bearing but changing is difficult

 

Probably not even if I used the saws all day - be difficult I think.

 

N

Edited by NFG
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I'm not even sure how much of a positive it is. I see the better handling thing, but changing the chain and removing the clutch is much easier for me on an inboard clutch.

 

If I was given an inboard and outboard saw to use without knowing which was which I doubt I'd be able to tell the difference. D'you think you could?

 

Precisely.

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You provocative bugger ! :biggrin: You just want to fire up sawtroll !

 

That may well be - but the inboard clutch really messes up the handling of those Dolmars - major mistake! :biggrin:

 

I have a 5100SH, but haven't used it in the woods after the first couple of outings with it.

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Im sure he scans the tinterwebs for any oportunity to extoll the virtues of the sacred 550 & 560 where Dolmar or Echo is mentioned

 

Give it an hour or so

 

 

 

Inboard seems easier to swap chain & check/change/grease bearing etc, some outboard spindles have holes to lubricate bearing but changing is difficult

 

Probably not even if I used the saws all day - be difficult I think.

 

N

There is lots of misinformation and misunderstandings on this topic out there.

 

It isn't difficult at all to remove the clutch on a fairly new outboard clutch Husky - you don't even need a piston stop, and no other special tools, just a screwdriver or similar and something suitable to hit it with.

 

Swapping chains is a couple of seconds faster with an inboard though - big deal! :laugh1:

Edited by SawTroll
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I have a couple of 5105's both heated handles. Nice little saws, very easy to get on with, starts very easily (no mucking about with priming or setting carbs or half throttle or pulling for hours, the thing just starts, hot cold, freshly refuelled after running dry, it just starts)

It's quite well made, tank caps are better than s/h. No major issues so far (small problem with the starter but it still works and is being sorted under warranty).

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That may well be - but the inboard clutch really messes up the handling of those Dolmars - major mistake! :biggrin:

 

I have a 5100SH, but haven't used it in the woods after the first couple of outings with it.

 

I've seen on the first of new Dolmars there is a outboard clutch fitted now :thumbup::thumbdown:

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There is lots of misinformation and misunderstandings on this topic out there.

 

It isn't difficult at all to remove the clutch on a fairly new outboard clutch Husky - you don't even need a piston stop, and no other special tools, just a screwdriver or similar and something suitable to hit it with.

 

Swapping chains is a couple of seconds faster with an inboard though - big deal! :laugh1:

 

No there isnt,

 

I have four saws, 3 with inboard clutches 1 with outboard clutch

 

The inboard clutches take about 2 seconds to flip the circlip off, I keep spares in case it goes awol, but its fairly easy to stop that. Its so easy I could probably do it blindfold.

 

The outboard clutch, I have to remove the spark plug to jam the piston with a cord , then its a left hand threaded nut to remove. To me this is more difficult.

 

I wouldnt avoid a saw because it has an outboard clutch, its just that the same job can be achieved on an inboard one is so much quicker & easier (to me).

 

 

N

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All the out board clutches I have had ( all Huskys ) have been a piece of piss to remove . No need for a piston stop of any kind . Compression is enough . Make sure the blue button is out . A copper or aluminum drift on one of the clutch segments . Sharp tap with a mallet and it spins off . :001_smile:

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