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How much to fit a flu liner


Will Heal
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316 is not just for gas and is perfectly fine for solid fuel.

 

Yes you are right, it's just that the 904 904 will withstand a chimney fire which I don't think a 316 316 will but that's not a problem if the liner is regularly swept.

 

... and that prompts a question: what do you guys use for sweeping 6" and 5" liners? At work we used to have Wohler viper but they are very expensive

 

I still have a 9" concrete liner but it does mean having to take the Jotul out to sweep the chimney and I can barely lift it nowadays.

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The chap from building control who signed my last one off was an ex brick layer who told me he knew nothing about stove fitting. He said use common sense and they have been fitting them for more years than he had been alive without regulations and it was a waste of time him looking.

Vermiculite is for insulation of the liner in a cold chimney, ie a chimney that runs up the outside of a house to stop condensation in the chimney. The flue liner, cowl and flue adaptor can be had for less than £200. (6") 316/316 Solid Fuel/Multi Fuel Flue Liner FlexiFlueDirect.com

 

If your house burns down and its fitted correctly your insurance will have to pay out. If it's been fitted by a professional incorrectly and your house burns down, your insurance won't pay out. You would be chasing the fitter and his insurance.

It's easy to do and do it properly and you won't have any issues.

 

Cheers

 

How much did building control charge for certifying the flue?

 

I only assisted on domestic stuff so the boss self certified it. All the commercial installations was rigid insulated twin wall and part J didn't apply, neither did part P for the electrics come to that.

 

The point about the certification is that it is proof of competence (or should be) just like a FENSA certificate for windows, NAPIT for electrics or BAFE for fire alarms and extinguishers. I don't think you can get round the latter on business premises if the fire risk assessment specifies the need for extinguishers or emergency lights.

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Oh God !!,

 

Look for direction of flow arrows on the outside of it, these must point in the direction of the gas flow, ( upwards).

 

What are you proposing to do about a register plate ?, thats the plate at the bottom of the chimney.

 

You will also need a CO2 alarm, talk to whoever is signing it off about stove CE plates as well. All stoves should now have one fitted but he may let you off with a used stove but ask first. This is of course assuming it does not have one.

 

A

 

I'm no expert and sorry for being pedantic but as it's important advice, shouldn't it be a closure plate (closure plate and register plates serve different purposes) and a CO detector?

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Cheers

 

]316 is not just for gas and is perfectly fine for solid fuel.

 

Its ok for smokeless coal and occasional smokeless fuel use only. Burning man made smokeless fuel on more than an occasional basis the fumes contan sulpher gas which is highly corrosive, it will go through 316 in about 18 months, in that situation just fit 904.

 

You don't actually need a register plate if your fitting a liner.

 

So what stops the heat rising up the chimney ?, without a register plate you might as well leave it as an open fire.

 

There for open chimneys to stop hot ash falling back down the chimney. With a liner you use one just to stop the usual crap coming down like rain. The stove fitters manual online is free and gives you step by step guide to fitting a stove. The Stove Fitter's Manual | How to fit a wood burning stove

 

The chap from building control who signed my last one off was an ex brick layer who told me he knew nothing about stove fitting. He said use common sense and they have been fitting them for more years than he had been alive without regulations and it was a waste of time him looking.

 

Not surprised to be honest , I have had a building inspector sign off a self install with a cap on the top that you use to close off a disused chimney.

 

 

Vermiculite is for insulation of the liner in a cold chimney, ie a chimney that runs up the outside of a house to stop condensation in the chimney. The flue liner, cowl and flue adaptor can be had for less than £200. (6") 316/316 Solid Fuel/Multi Fuel Flue Liner FlexiFlueDirect.com

 

If your house burns down and its fitted correctly your insurance will have to pay out.

 

The insurer passes the claim to a loss adjuster, its his job to get the insurer out of paying. No sign off and no insurance. Dont forget that the sign off is registered at your local town hall so you cant say the cert went up in the fire.

 

 

If it's been fitted by a professional incorrectly and your house burns down, your insurance won't pay out.

 

Your insurer would pay out in that situation but would then be suing the installer.

 

It's easy to do and do it properly and you won't have any issues.

 

Agreed, but get it signed off.

 

Cheers

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I'm no expert and sorry for being pedantic but as it's important advice, shouldn't it be a closure plate (closure plate and register plates serve different purposes) and a CO detector?

 

Closure plate and register plate are two descriptions for the same thing, a galvanized steel sheet across the bottom of the chimney opening to stop heat rising upwards and crap falling downwards. Must be fitted with inspection doors if liner installed or bigger sweeping access doors if no liner fitted.

 

A

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Closure plate and register plate are two descriptions for the same thing, a galvanized steel sheet across the bottom of the chimney opening to stop heat rising upwards and crap falling downwards. Must be fitted with inspection doors if liner installed or bigger sweeping access doors if no liner fitted.

 

A

 

I accept the term is used for both but it's not entirely accurate as a closure plate is used when a liner is in place and for mostly cosmetic reasons. A register plate is used when there is no liner and must provide a complete seal between the room and chimney to prevent the ingress of gases to the room. Both as you say need to be constructed from appropriate materials

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You are also supposed to have an air inlet to the outside. I think 6" diameter if I remember correctly. Even my installer thought I didn't need one as the house is pretty much open plan and enough ventilation through all the windows/doors. And he is an HETAS certified installer.

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You are also supposed to have an air inlet to the outside. I think 6" diameter if I remember correctly. Even my installer thought I didn't need one as the house is pretty much open plan and enough ventilation through all the windows/doors. And he is an HETAS certified installer.

 

Part J requires an air opening for greater than 5kW. The bit about a 6" flue for a solid fuel device was relaxed a couple of years ago for those stoves designed with 5" flues. At the same time pressurised water boilers became lawful, mostly to allow pellet boilers from abroad to be used here.

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