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Reduction tips needed!!


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Cheers for all of your replies, I tried to put your advice into practice today and it seemed to be more rhythmic, plenty of communication with the groundy which made a massive difference. Really appreciated the tips, nice one! I've attached the before and after, please criticise away! Anything you think I could have done different or improve on next time?

1443985021114.jpg.1c33a265dfee2771ed8a7fa73fe17fdb.jpg

1443984926020.jpg.a481bd6ee0c5c4ebe20820f643d3233c.jpg

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That's a nice reduction there mate.

If it hasn't been said in previously, always get every single bit you can from where you are stood (even if it means reaching right over) because you don't want to get to another bit and find you can't reach something and have to go back to a section you have already been to. Especially on a big bigger.

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Nice work ... The more you do the easier it gets to see a line to follow with the curves and tree shape , the tree you have done looked a partially difficult one as well as your not taking the same uniform amount off all over to make a balanced tree... Also if your asking your grounds people if a bit is sticking out it usually is!

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It may have been said but the tree will guide you in terms of where to prune etc; good growth points are key.

 

Another aspect to learn/bear in mind is the natural form of trees. A Silver birch will look different to an oak which will look different to a beech (in their natural form) so having in your mind what it should look like once the prune has taken place is invaluable.

 

Good luck, and to echo other comments, good communication with the ground staff and plenty of practice.

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As others have said start at the top and work down. Imagine yourself in a giant dome, as your working down from the top bring the cuts further out and remember to keep it rounded and not square...obviously this all depends on suitable growth points.

 

Cheers for all the positive feedback - the invisible dome techniquewill definitely stick, cracking idea that!

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