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Posted

Not going to mess around changing saws for the end of the cut. Need to knock out the meters to keep the customer happy. I do keep the rakers long to stop the saw being too greedy though.

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Posted

Did run an Ms 200 back handle for one season but found it a bit underpowered on big old thorns, so used my husky 350 or 357 on a 15" bar after that but only really as I had them, got a stihl ms251 at the minute that I'm going to get a smaller bar for, for this season, nice light pokey little saw, once you get used to the weird feeling soft pull start.

Posted
Which Dolmar do you have in mind :biggrin:

 

I would say Ps- 350sc or ps -35 with a 10" 12" or 14" carving bar supplied with the saw as standard

Cheers :thumbup1::thumbup1:

Posted

I have no problem with the dolly or using 1/4" pitch chain but I'm not sure about using a carving bar with no nose sprocket and a slack chain.

 

Last winter I was using a MS170 with 3/8 x 1.1mm chain ( the same combination I have on my Kombi pruner ) and excellent for not grabbing.

 

The 1/4 x 1.1mm chain should be even better and fully understand why people are recommending the MS150 or cordless saws.

Posted
Anyone else got a view on the Dolmars and carving bars? Be nice to buy from Shavey if they are the right machine for the job.

 

Hi WOOD AS YOU NO MATE TCD runs DOLMARS OFF Andrew mate thanks Andrew would far from to wood thanks Jon

Posted
I have no problem with the dolly or using 1/4" pitch chain but I'm not sure about using a carving bar with no nose sprocket and a slack chain.

 

Last winter I was using a MS170 with 3/8 x 1.1mm chain ( the same combination I have on my Kombi pruner ) and excellent for not grabbing.

 

The 1/4 x 1.1mm chain should be even better and fully understand why people are recommending the MS150 or cordless saws.

 

Never looked at a carving bar. Didn't know they had no nose sprocket and a slack chain does sound like it might be trouble with all the twigs and debris you get in a hedge.

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