how should a saw be stored ?

[Eddie@aspen]

Its A/T Eddie . Should adjust its self .

Hi Stubby,

 

Still might need the carb diaphragm replacing.

 

As I said give me a call next week and I will help get it fixed.

Edited April 4, 2015 by Eddie@aspen

[Stubby]

Hi Stubby,

 

Still might need the carb diaphragm replacing.

 

As I said give me a call next week and I will help get it fixed.

 

OK , thanks Eddie . I understand about the petrol removing the coating from the rubber components ( but the petrol itself keeping them supple ) and that Aspen will not remove the coating so may need to replace the rubber parts if going over to Asplen . The 560 has been used for a longer period on pump fuel than the T540 so I would expect the 560 to play up first but it runs good and strong on the Aspen ( better than on the pump fuel ) . The T540 is newer than the 560 and not had as much pump fuel through it . It starts normally and reves up to WOT then after a few seconds held at WOT it just cuts out .

[Eddie@aspen]

OK , thanks Eddie . I understand about the petrol removing the coating from the rubber components ( but the petrol itself keeping them supple ) and that Aspen will not remove the coating so may need to replace the rubber parts if going over to Asplen . The 560 has been used for a longer period on pump fuel than the T540 so I would expect the 560 to play up first but it runs good and strong on the Aspen ( better than on the pump fuel ) . The T540 is newer than the 560 and not had as much pump fuel through it . It starts normally and reves up to WOT then after a few seconds held at WOT it just cuts out .

Hi, Please check there is not another fault like dirt in the fuel tank or a blocked fuel filter.

 

The diaphragm thing can sometimes be random and so don't rule this out as a possible cause.

 

Good luck and if you need help let me know.

[GardenKit]

I second Eddies comments Stubby.

Sounds to me like it could be totally coincidental and nothing to do with Aspen.

I would check the tank filter (unlikely) the tank breather (more likely) and the internal gauze filter in the carb, most likely.

Also the impulse tube.

 

But if the engine is cutting straight out at WOT after a little while rather than slowly dying out, then I wonder if the problem is ignition related. Easiest to replace the plug and try again, but the next culprit could just be the coil.

 

just thoughts.

[peatff]

Used a couple of tanks of Aspen in the 135 today and it's going really well. I had to tweak the L screw originally but now it starts without using fast idle when warm which it would not do on petrol mix. It just got put away as it was but I'll clean it tomorrow and top up the bar oil and it will be fine till next time.

Edited April 4, 2015 by peatff

[spudulike]

Does anyone have a view on whether saws are better stored (wet) on their side or right way up? Does petrol evaporate out through the carburretor while they are being stored? Would leaving the choke on slow this down?

 

I have had saws that have fuel in them for 2-3 years and still fire up after five pulls, I personally store my own saws dry as I rarely use them as, for some reason, I am always testing saws owned by others:sneaky2:

 

They also fire up in circa 5 pulls:001_rolleyes:

 

The fuel will generally keep rubber parts soft but have also seen diaphragms go hard and rigid even when fuelled up as the fuel will evaporate in a short time. I have also seen fuel pipes turn to foul smelling grey gloop when left immersed in petrol.

 

I don't think there is probably a hard and fast answer but a carb kit change and new fuel line isn't a real biggie once every few years - under £20 in parts and £25-40 to fit depending on machine type and then do a fine tune on the carb!

 

Don't make too much of a personal preference - I drain them also for safety sake - someone once told me petrol burns pretty quick:lol:

[daltontrees]

I have had saws that have fuel in them for 2-3 years and still fire up after five pulls, I personally store my own saws dry as I rarely use them as, for some reason, I am always testing saws owned by others:sneaky2:

 

They also fire up in circa 5 pulls:001_rolleyes:

 

The fuel will generally keep rubber parts soft but have also seen diaphragms go hard and rigid even when fuelled up as the fuel will evaporate in a short time. I have also seen fuel pipes turn to foul smelling grey gloop when left immersed in petrol.

 

I don't think there is probably a hard and fast answer but a carb kit change and new fuel line isn't a real biggie once every few years - under £20 in parts and £25-40 to fit depending on machine type and then do a fine tune on the carb!

 

Don't make too much of a personal preference - I drain them also for safety sake - someone once told me petrol burns pretty quick:lol:

 

Thanks. I usually store my saws on their side when full ,but that says more about my leaky filler caps than any understanding I have of evaporation.

 

I'm going to switch to Aspen anyway next time I am near a stockist.

 

So what is a carb kit? Is it something that you can buy off the shelf? I'd give it a shot because I am very underwhelmed by all my local saw repair guys. I have enough wheezing pensioner saws that I coud send you a busload for fixing if you weren't so far away.

[spudulike]

Thanks. I usually store my saws on their side when full ,but that says more about my leaky filler caps than any understanding I have of evaporation.

 

I'm going to switch to Aspen anyway next time I am near a stockist.

 

So what is a carb kit? Is it something that you can buy off the shelf? I'd give it a shot because I am very underwhelmed by all my local saw repair guys. I have enough wheezing pensioner saws that I coud send you a busload for fixing if you weren't so far away.

 

A Carb kit comes in two versions, a short kit with just gaskets and diaphragms and a full one with the needle, metering arm and welch plugs - the difference in money makes it worth getting th full kit.

 

Best place to get them is Rowena motors, very helpful but crap website. All you need to know is the model number of the carb.

 

Fitting is relatively easy, just note the order of the gaskets and also, the metering arm height needs to be set after fitting.

 

BTW- couriers get a saw or two to me for £10:thumbup1:

[MonsterMonster]

I can say definitely not on a canal boat. Just got a 1990 Stihl that had been stored on a boat. Crank wouldn't budge at first but tide line shows that the bilge pump failed at some point.