Spindle moulder advice

[muttley9050]

Afternoon.

I have around 150-200 linear M of oak window sills to make.. The blanks have been milled for 3 years in 7"x4.5" beams. I'm going to need a spindle moulder to do it. I've never used one before, but am quite adept with a router table. I also have a load of oak to turn into flooring so a spindle would be Good too. I'm looking at a machine like the Axminster ws1000ta. Any thoughts on if this is a suitable machine. Axminster also do a one day course on the use of it so it seems like a good option. But I'm wondering if it will be big enough to do what I need it to do. I'm avoiding a big old cast machine as it will be too hard to get it In my workshop.

Any thoughts grate fully recieved.

Thanks

James

[Graham w]

dont use any old friction style blocks and or cutters, even if you are paid to take them they are extremely dangerous because the cutters fall out in use

[Stompy]

To be honest big old cast iron would be miles better than any new Axminster tin. Spindles need to be solid and limit vibration to a minimum. Less vibration, not matter how small, equals a better cut.

 

Spindles moulders are one of the most dangerous tools in the workshop so a crash course would be a good idea. You really need to think about guarding and if you can, and a strong suggestion on my part, get a powerfeed. A powerfeed will give a lot more accuracy, make the job easier and will be 10x safer as you hands need not be anywhere near the cutters or the workpiece except to feed and remove.

 

Some of the old Wadkins or other old British Iron on ebay (or old SCM's) can be had for a lot less then a new Axminster job, powerfeed included.

 

To be honest the tooling costs more than the machine so if you can find one that comes with some (safe - stay away from French cutters and pinless tooling, Euro and serrated good). My SCM T20 spindle cost just under £1300 with a powerfeed, my tooling over £3000.

 

I've worked around these machines for years so if you want any advice just message me, happy to help

[Ukulian]

If you have 3 phase power, take a look at the 'old iron', otherwise the Axminster is not a bad buy for a modern one. You would definitely be sensible to take the day course, as, no matter how much experience you have on a router table, the spindle moulder will bite you!

Don't even think of doing anything with a ring fence 'till you've had it a year or so, but otherwise they are very capable machines.

In 40 years I've only ever used one with a powerfeed, so can't advise there, but they seem like a good addition.

Good luck.

[muttley9050]

Thanks. Do have 3 phase on site, but not in my workshop, I could Re route it quite easily. Problem is the entrance to my workshop is not great, a 1m wide door, round a corner, up a step, so not sure how I'd get a big cast thing In.

Kind of assumed the modern ones would be safer with better guarding etc?

There's this one on the eBay at the moment which is tempting depending on hammer price.

 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/311314339596

[muttley9050]

Out of interest, what us a ring fence, and what does it allow you to do?

Thanks

[Woodworks]

To be honest big old cast iron would be miles better than any new Axminster tin. Spindles need to be solid and limit vibration to a minimum. Less vibration, not matter how small, equals a better cut.

 

Spindles moulders are one of the most dangerous tools in the workshop so a crash course would be a good idea. You really need to think about guarding and if you can, and a strong suggestion on my part, get a powerfeed. A powerfeed will give a lot more accuracy, make the job easier and will be 10x safer as you hands need not be anywhere near the cutters or the workpiece except to feed and remove.

 

Some of the old Wadkins or other old British Iron on ebay (or old SCM's) can be had for a lot less then a new Axminster job, powerfeed included.

 

To be honest the tooling costs more than the machine so if you can find one that comes with some (safe - stay away from French cutters and pinless tooling, Euro and serrated good). My SCM T20 spindle cost just under £1300 with a powerfeed, my tooling over £3000.

 

I've worked around these machines for years so if you want any advice just message me, happy to help

 

This

[Woodworks]

Out of interest, what us a ring fence, and what does it allow you to do?

Thanks

 

It's like using a router cutter with bearing guide but on a larger scale. The difference is the radius of the ring guide is larger than the cutter. Used in conjunction with a template that runs against the ring. You set it up that only one point does the cutter line up with the ring so you can take progressively take more and more off without going to the final point first time. Hope that makes sense

 

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Interestingly that ring fence looks like it's the same diameter as the cutter so there may be various sorts.

Edited March 22, 2015 by Woodworks

[Woodworks]

There are a couple of Sedwik machines on ebay ATM both with power feeds. Not used one but most of their kit is simple but solid also made in the UK. I think the greatest improvements in safety are down to the tooling and less so the actual machine. Spindle Moulder: Woodworking | eBay

[Stompy]

Thanks. Do have 3 phase on site, but not in my workshop, I could Re route it quite easily. Problem is the entrance to my workshop is not great, a 1m wide door, round a corner, up a step, so not sure how I'd get a big cast thing In.

Kind of assumed the modern ones would be safer with better guarding etc?

There's this one on the eBay at the moment which is tempting depending on hammer price.

 

Axminster Trade Series WS1000TA Spindle Moulder | eBay

 

There is always a way to move the about, just need to think about it rollers, wedges, winches, lots of hands and some amount of swearing should get it in. You only have to do it once.

 

Guarding hasn't changed much in 20 years. If anything guards now are aluminium and plastic, not as good as a lump of cast iron.

 

That axminster machine looks ok, got a sliding table which is a plus for doing tenons and angled end work but nothing you can't do with an old machine with sleds and jigs. But it does look a little tinny.... Lighter to move about at the cost of stability.

 

A ring fence is usefull for curved work but as said above you need experience and confidence to use it, it can rip the workpiece out of your hands if you don't know what you are doing. You can get bearing guides to stack on top of the cutter head which is a better bet. A infeed pin is useful here to give you something to pivot of to control the initial cut.