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Mini diggers, tips and advice on use


normandylumberjack
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Learn to use your feet to track so you can dig or slew etc at the same time then to minimise ground damage to turn just lift the tracks slightly by putting the bucket down in front of you then track he left track forward and right back and slew to the right as you do, this will minimise the contact patch and if done right the tracks will barely drag at all causing almost no damage,

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I don't think the blade is supposed to be anywhere in particular, its a tool to help out depending on the situation, either way it steadys the machine by being down- some older larger machines don't even have blades at all. Definiately having the blade in front helps when cleaning up with a grading bucket.

 

Yeah, the dozer can be at front or back.... or even left or right! (depending on cab position).

I tend to prefer to use/see the dozer blade at the front.

 

Some modern diggers have a dozer blade at the front & back don't they?

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Yeah, the dozer can be at front or back.... or even left or right! (depending on cab position).

I tend to prefer to use/see the dozer blade at the front.

 

Some modern diggers have a dozer blade at the front & back don't they?[/QUOTE]

 

Yes I have heard of this but never seen one in the flesh, I think it could be a very handy setup, as long as you could lift them up high enough so that they didn't bottom out/wedge into the ground when you were going over ruts/ditches etc. with just the one blade you can always lift up the front with the arm to get yourself over such obstacles but if you had another at the back it would always be an opposing force- if you can get any sense out of that statement!

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Some modern diggers have a dozer blade at the front & back don't they?[/QUOTE]

 

Yes I have heard of this but never seen one in the flesh, I think it could be a very handy setup, as long as you could lift them up high enough so that they didn't bottom out/wedge into the ground when you were going over ruts/ditches etc. with just the one blade you can always lift up the front with the arm to get yourself over such obstacles but if you had another at the back it would always be an opposing force- if you can get any sense out of that statement!

 

Think you're right about ground clearance being a negative. I sometimes think a front/ back dozer would be of most benefit for pulling out sections from the woods where it's tight to turn around.... and would save churning up the ground so much; with less turning.

 

I'm sure I did see a photo of a digger with twin dozers but maybe it was a dream?! :confused1: ....can't find any photos now! :lol:

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Gotta love this thread. The answers just about sum it up.

 

Nothing can really be done to change the damage done by a tracked vehicle. Over time I have come to the conclusion that I use the machine, do the best job I can to clear up after use and then wait until Spring and it all looks good...

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Gotta love this thread. The answers just about sum it up.

 

Nothing can really be done to change the damage done by a tracked vehicle. Over time I have come to the conclusion that I use the machine, do the best job I can to clear up after use and then wait until Spring and it all looks good...

 

Agreed ~ nature does wonders at converting things back to looking, um, natural.

 

p.s.... we find tractors / wheeled vehicles do way more damage compared with a digger (that isn't being turned on the spot).

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Reduce turf damage by using a plywood sheet, works a treat, and if digging to remove stumps etc and dirt's going back in, same, stick some ply down and use that to protect the surface underneath.

Each person has their own way of doing it, and it'll vary with machine, surface, what your doing, how far your digging and it's been raining.

Getting your own machine makes it easier as you know the machine and all its unique quirks.

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the reason we were told to keep idlers at the front is when it goes wrong and you are trying to make a hasty exit if you keep idlers at the front you always know which way to get out of the way quickly and modern track motors still suffer from casing damage the last track motor i replaced cost about 8k and it got damaged by driver pulling an h beam into it and it passed thru the outer cover and broke the annulus gear munch munch it was in bits

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