Coppicing with a clearance saw

[Mat]

I've got quite a large amount of hazel to be cleared which is only 10-20mm in diameter as part of neglected coppice. These are areas cut in the last 2-3 years by a spar maker but it has now left a mosiac of different age hazel. I am cutting the larger diameter rods (stools) with a chainsaw but wondered if it would be possible to cut the smaller stuff with a clearance saw? Has anyone tried this and will it just leave a ragged finish? The stools are about 2 foot diameter on average

 

Thanks

 

Alan

 

IMO, you will need the right equipment, and the knack (bit like most things).

 

A proper clearing saw is a different beast to a brush cutter. The shaft is a lot shorter.

 

The guard at the end of the shaft is designed to be stupidly small.

 

I have a Husq 252rx, which also had the benefit of a thumb trigger.

 

 

I used to use blades that had teeth similar to chainsaw cutters, and were sharpened in the same way.

 

In use, obviously you need to carefully plan your sequence in order to make life easy, but the basic knack you need to master is:

 

Its the momentum of the blase that cuts... blip up a bit of speed in the blade,

and then just tap the stem to cut it... don't apply the blade in a smooth movement, or it will just drag itself deep into the wood and jam.

 

The clearing saw is designed to be used two or one handed (hence the short shaft) so cut and lay the stems as you go.

 

You can send the base of a stem flying forwards, backwards, or to the sides - depending on which part of the blade you are using (hence the tiny guard), and the angle you cut the stem at.

 

 

The video shows it pretty good (from what I watched)

 

No need to bend over, you get to spend all day upright with no aches and pains in the evening.

 

The finish to the cut with a decent blade is as smooth as a silky (well, nearly )

 

Cheers

Edited February 20, 2015 by Mat

[woodyguy]

Good post Mat. Clearly I'm using a brush cutter which is very very long. It does the cutting but is really cumbersome. Can't see me shelling out just for that though...

[Stubby]

Good post Mat. Clearly I'm using a brush cutter which is very very long. It does the cutting but is really cumbersome. Can't see me shelling out just for that though...

 

Just a note here if you are using a brush cutter rather than a dedicated clearing saw some harnesses have a different ( higher ) attachment point for the webbing were the cutter clips on to effectively shorten the cutter shaft . Well my Husqvarna harness does anyway .

[openspaceman]

IMO, you will need the right equipment, and the knack (bit like most things).

 

A proper clearing saw is a different beast to a brush cutter. The shaft is a lot shorter.

 

The guard at the end of the shaft is designed to be stupidly small.

 

I have a Husq 252rx, which also had the benefit of a thumb trigger.

 

[ATTACH]176859[/ATTACH]

 

I used to use blades that had teeth similar to chainsaw cutters, and were sharpened in the same way.

 

I didn't realise the shafts were shorter but my first powered saw was a 165r, still have it, and we did just as you say and yes the thumb trigger too. At first I used the blade which one sharpened on the leading edge only and then moved to the teeth like saw chain. We weren't coppicing per se but trying to recover (cleaning) douglas fir plantations over old chestnut coppice. With practice using the head momentum and the shaft one could lay the stems in rows.

 

This was back in 1974 when PAWS wasn't an issue and often the stumps were treated with 245t. I used to saddle soap and oil the all leather harness I was so proud of the saw!

[humpo48]

Just found this thread, bit late coming in. I use an FS490 on scratcher and clear saw blades and have cut loads with them there is a knack to doing it as you cut you lay material over in the same direction. Saves your back bending over using a chainsaw. Blades stay sharp for some time but I am lucky as most of my work is on peat mires so no stones to hit.

[AlexB]

I'll try it at the weekend to see. They're not actually very nimble at all as they're heavy and hard to reverse but with well laid out regular coppice I could see it working. Yes they will drive over a stool but the bar will be all over the place so you'd have to position and attack one stool at a time not just walk up and down. Interesting idea though.

 

 

I just push down on the handles and the cutter bar comes up.... Mine is easy to reverse. Guess it's down to operator ability.....

[Crazy Cutter]

We used to do a lot of clearing saw work in young plantations. The clearing saw has a shorter pole so easier to cut on the angle to direct the stem. One handed use as well so you can hold the tree you are cutting. Stihl and Husqvarna have vary good publications on best practice. The chainsaw blade is sharpened using a round chainsaw file cut high to keep out of the dirt. In my experience a clearing saw is very good on coppice, it will deal with big trees, you can cut a felling cut with it, but with everything it will take practice.

[Marc Lewis]

Billhook perhaps, failing that a topper saw.

[kav]

Husky 550, 8 tooth sprocket, 13" bar and a decent osteopath works for me

Buts as said before chain needs to be in good nick. I found its tidier cuts with pulling chain rather that top of bar but can 'sweep'over whole stool using both-if that makes any sense!!