How many of you sharpen a new chain?

[Blakes 7]

Ok, let you into a secret.......

 

Although i do use a depth guage regularly, i never use a round file guide!

 

I find the guides are not accurate enough as they give a little, but the depth is crutial and cannot be wrong with a guide.

 

As a result I can sharpen a chain sharper than new:001_smile:

I'm not saying that you can't get a chain sharp.

But if the reason for not using a guide is that they are not accurate enough, how can doing it free hand be more accurate?

You don't have any mecanism for keeping to the datum.

The chain manufactures have spent time and money to find the correct depth/ angles for the chain to work properly within the system ie the saw used.

We all know that chains cut quicker if you file the depth guages down, but you may overload the power unit, and definatley increase vibrations. The published vibration values are for correctly sharpened chains. (CVW Regs)

[Big 'Ammer]

Very occasionally, I will sharpen a new chain prior to use, but only ever on a long bar where I need to cut something really fast.

 

Normal 15" -20" chains I don't bother, as I will give them I tickle up after the first tank full.

 

They always cut better after the first sharpen.

 

Stihl .325 chain is very good, but I find it far too aggressive when new, tries to take too much off and can be a pain stalling the chain in the cut.

 

The secret to low vibration and smooth cutting is nicely profiled rakers IMO.

 

Find the sweet spot and then maintain it at that by eye.

 

I had some Windsor chain to try along with 18 Stoner and McSarnie, and it definately needed sharpening before use, but once done is giving good service.

[Marc]

I'm not saying that you can't get a chain sharp.

But if the reason for not using a guide is that they are not accurate enough, how can doing it free hand be more accurate?

You don't have any mecanism for keeping to the datum.

The chain manufactures have spent time and money to find the correct depth/ angles for the chain to work properly within the system ie the saw used.

 

Whilst you are right, using a guide requires precision of movement, something that is hard to do with a guide you nearly always end up twisting slight or tilting up or down which will throw the guide out without you even noticing. With out a guide your not so restricted in your movement which allows you to guide the file in the cutter better, just my opinion and observation.

 

Guides are in my opinion there for those who are not as practiced at sharpening/novice to intermediate users, if you've sharpend daily for years then freehand is accurate and can even give far better results.

[Stephen Blair]

what about temper in the chain, i find if you have had a day of hell with nails and stones.and the chain has had a good roasting, it seems it wont take an edge as well

[Johny Walker]

if its a bady i get a over sized file to cut it out then redress it with the correct size file or if its paggerd just bin it

[18 stoner]

Whilst you are right, using a guide requires precision of movement, something that is hard to do with a guide you nearly always end up twisting slight or tilting up or down which will throw the guide out without you even noticing. With out a guide your not so restricted in your movement which allows you to guide the file in the cutter better, just my opinion and observation.

 

Guides are in my opinion there for those who are not as practiced at sharpening/novice to intermediate users, if you've sharpend daily for years then freehand is accurate and can even give far better results.

 

Spot on Marc, my thoughts exactly!

 

In my eyes there are 3 different types of mechanical aids;

 

Any file guide that clamps the file at either end. These have a tendency to allow the file to flex, often ending up with the file digging too deep, leaving a cutter too sharply pointed.

 

The roller type that sits on the bar. Great for good depth control but still depends upon the user to keep two dimentional alignment correct.

 

Electric grinder type. These are great for any large set up, or salvaging a really trashed chain, however, they still will only sharpen as good as a new chain.

 

Anyone think of another thats better?

 

The freehand as Marc says does take some mastering, but in my opinion is more accurate once learned.

[petertreepiper]

sorry! A little off talk Im just sick of filling chains ! just bought a sthil chain grinder 10 years old perfect nick just dont have a clue how to use one anybody any tips ! please any tips ! thanks a mil !

[Al Smith]

New ones,I just run. When they need filed ,I file them . Usually free hand but every so often I use an Oregon file guide to make sure things are nice and true .

 

It's an acquired skill. Some catch on fast, some do not, some never do .

[Hollands]

first sharpen is definateley sharper, but the factory edge seems to last a bit longer. I try and keep the factory edge as long as possible. It still cuts sweet. I think guys sometimes push on the saw a bit and convince themselves its cutting slow.

[Paulthepunk]

Here what you're saying Paul re: the Stihl chain, btter value for money imo. Steve & I discussed this one day, how much extra cutter you get for your money, over Oregon or Carlton.

 

I just find stihl to be sharp from the box and stay sharp a lot longer than any other chains I've used. Even when I used to run Huskys, it was always still chains I put on them, they are the best!