Oil choice for high mileage 200tdi?

[Suffolk-Matt]

Seeing as the old girl is knocking on a bit I was wondering about what oil type and grade to go for this time as its due a service.

 

Mineral or semi? Normally use a semi.

 

knocking on for 200k on original engine.

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Neither. If you are really seriously wanting the best obtainable, read up on basestock groups. Hint below in my signature!

[div_h]

Tar.....😂

[woody paul]

200k just ran in.

[div_h]

10-40 fully and add a forte clean and protect, the clean is a flush you run before you change the oil and the protect is an additive you add to the fresh oil 👍

[mendiplogs]

200k just ran in.

 

Hi Paul IVE a 300tdi with 212k going ok charge the oil 5k thanks jon

[Hodge]

20/50 we used to put in high mileage stuff.

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Additives in oil - a big NO NO.

 

All you need is this:

 

RED LINE High Performance Synthetic Motor Oil 15w-40 Diesel

 

Nothing better on planet earth; the only poly-ol ester. ester Motul would probably follow, followed by AMS which is PAO.

 

It's all about maintaining MOFT.

Edited November 11, 2014 by TimberCutterDartmoor

[Rye Oil Ltd]

Seeing as the old girl is knocking on a bit I was wondering about what oil type and grade to go for this time as its due a service.

 

Mineral or semi? Normally use a semi.

 

knocking on for 200k on original engine.

 

How old is the vehicle? Not sure what the logic is in sticking a super high performance, bells and whistles oil in a relatively old machine. It may give you extended drain, but at the end of the day whats the point when it cost 2 -3 times as much. You may as well change your oil regularly and carry on using a semi or even a mineral 15w/40 does the job.

Our rep ( now retired) ran a old Renault 12 on our mineral 15w/40 and took it all the way to 350 k, same with our oldest tanker it is now on 400 K +

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Financially, how do you view it. For me, engine durability is the utmost priority irrespective of initial outlay - it saves £ in the long term. But I agree that more frequent changes of "general oil" is a legitimate option; not as environmentally sound though; unless you heat your workshop in a used oil burner or recycle the UO some other way. I'd sooner spec an SHPD Mineral such as URSA to semi-syn. Meaningless phrase anyway; comma oils are "fully synthetic"; and yet <20% of the product is such; marketing rubbish and still an acceptable OEM approved product.