Chain tension

[wisewood]

Those solid nose bars do behave strangely - I think they were good back in the day when saws did not rev so high and sprocket noses on bars failed more easily....

 

These days they are a pain - the chain goes tight - you slacken it - the chain runs then starts hanging off the bar - you tighten a little - suddenly it goes really tight!

 

You just can't win! You can only look to manage the bar as best you can - ie keep altering chain tensioner to suit.

 

Stihl are behind the times here not producing a 4ft sprocket nose bar - they have the 36" and 59" so why not a 48"? It's odd....

 

 

 

I've been looking at getting a 3120 but it seems husqvarna only do solid nosed bars as standard. Not just still who are behind the times.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Arbtalk mobile app

[TGB]

Buy just the powerhead and fit a Sugi Hara bar or Oregon Powermatch Pro

[gobbypunk]

Hi Rob what you said about the chain tension slach then tight then hanging off the bar is exactly whats hapening to me do you think I should change the bar for a sprocket nosed one

Cheers Mark

[Rob D]

Yep when you've had some use out of that bar change to one of the sprocket noses ones - I have the 56" and 64" new GB bars now so you get max width on a 48" or 56" Mill

 

 

 

[gobbypunk]

Thanks Rob how much will one of those set me back or are the sugi hara better and or cheeper many thanks

Cheers Mark

[doobin]

When milling you're asking the saw to work much harder and keeping the chain in contact with full width timber for a lot longer than when using a saw to crosscut.

 

From a mechanical point of view, it's a lack of lubrication due to this extra work causing the heat and associated stretch. Therefore surely a cheap additional oiler should be the first point of call?

[Rob D]

When milling you're asking the saw to work much harder and keeping the chain in contact with full width timber for a lot longer than when using a saw to crosscut.

 

From a mechanical point of view, it's a lack of lubrication due to this extra work causing the heat and associated stretch. Therefore surely a cheap additional oiler should be the first point of call?

 

 

 

It could seem that way - but when using a sprocket nose bar these issues don't happen - same length bar, same wood, same lubrication yet it just doesn't happen to anywhere near the same degree with a sprocket nose bar....

 

 

 

That said an additional oiler would certainly help - but really why not just put that cash towards a new bar?