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checking the chain runs freely when tensioned


JosephD
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using my husky t540xp today and realised that the chain tension was a little lose so i switched it off and then re-tensioned it.

 

just wanted to know are you meant to just see the bottom of the drive links when you pull the chain up after its been retensioned? OR is the bottom of the drive link meant to be hidden in the grove?

 

and also i put a glove on to pull the chain back and forward to see if it ran freely and its a bit of a struggle to do with one hand but quite easy to do with 2 hands, does this mean that the chain is too tight?

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I like to be able to pull it and have at least one drive link come out, it should then snap back full in. And like spuds says run free and easy I usually put the combo spanner on the back of a drive link and push it forward to test free running as I do not wear gloves, I hate over tight'chains that noise it makes is like finger nails on a chalk board to me.

 

The 3 link rule is not a good guide, as it will vary on bar length.

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I found my 540 a bugger to tension right...

 

I have to leave mine slightly looser so when I fully tighten the nut it tightens it's slightly more, strange trying to allow for that.

 

 

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on TH saws and pole saws, i run chains a little looser than i would ordinarily due to the low horsepower base your starting with.

 

chain should be loose enough to feel smooth on turning rotating by hand but not so loose there is chain creep on idle.

 

the 1,2,3 link thing...depends on how good your grip is and how hard you pull! 😜😜😜

 

 

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chain should be loose enough to feel smooth on turning rotating by hand but not so loose there is chain creep on idle.

 

Sent from my iPad using Arbtalk

 

 

 

good advice for all saws really

 

 

 

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I missed the bit about pulling up the chain:blushing: Thought we were looking at the bottom of the bar:001_rolleyes::lol:

 

TBH, I pull he chain up as I do the bar nuts up so the bar is pre tensioned upwards at teh tip - chocking up the end under the bar would have a similar effect. I then check to see if the chain hangs down off the bar and retension if loose and spin it round until it is semi tight on the bar.......it works for me!:thumbup:

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When I taught I would say that, as a rule of thumb, 'place the saw on a level surface, take the chain brake off, hold the chain with a gloved hand and pull the chain; if only the chain moved, it's too slack, if the whole unit moved then the tension was somewhere near OK'.

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