Using engine oil as chain oil

[Andy Collins]

I used to work (years ago) for a woodsman who would only use his waste hydraulic fluid for chain lube. Never understood that one, and we did work on RSPB reserves and sensitive sites where "controls" were said to be "stringent". I used chain oil, and he'd mutter that it was no wonder money was tight if I was going to throw it away on extravagances like chain oil. I guess he probably still does things the same way.

[brynseiri]

Incorrect.

 

The bar and chain will both enjoy a prolonged life from using a decent chain lube.

The cutters however are not affected. Only thing that blunts chains is wood or for foreign objects in wood.

 

The oil doesn't even come into contact with the teeth.

 

 

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I agree, so how come I notice the difference? I'm not a tree surgeon but have a fair few acres of trees and am fully trained, so not some hit and hope amateur. I believe temperature has a lot to do with it my self. The chain oil will however come into contact with the teeth as it goes everywhere! But you are correct in that its purpose is to lubricate the surfaces between chain and bar, it is not a cutting lubricant. Who makes the best Bio chain lubricant?

 

 

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[Joe Newton]

Can't answer your question I'm afraid.

 

The difference you notice is likely due to the fact that without lubricant the chain will experience huge friction along the bar, causing loss of power and chain binding. This can affect cutting performance, regardless of wether or not the chain is sharp.

 

 

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[spudulike]

If your oil pump stops working, the chain and bar heat up through friction, the chain gets very tight on the bar and will be difficult to move by hand. The chain will start going golden brown with a build up of dried resin and wood chip and may end up black if it gets hot enough.

 

The chain will sound like the tracks on a caterpillar or tank sound - all tight and squeaky:thumbdown: In some cases, the chain will start to burn the wood in the cut!

 

These are the consequences of poor lubrication on the bar and chain. The chain spins round on the bar at around 60mph on a normal pro saw, faster if using an 8 pin rim and/or running a tuned saw! If doing this, the oiler should be run on maximum.

[HGBMX]

We buy engine oil off a haulage firm down the road from us a 1000L a time and it goes through the saws and harvester heads, never had a problem

[Paul Jenks]

I agree, so how come I notice the difference? I'm not a tree surgeon but have a fair few acres of trees and am fully trained, so not some hit and hope amateur. I believe temperature has a lot to do with it my self. The chain oil will however come into contact with the teeth as it goes everywhere! But you are correct in that its purpose is to lubricate the surfaces between chain and bar, it is not a cutting lubricant. Who makes the best Bio chain lubricant?

 

 

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Don't know who makes the best. We've used only Stihl Bio wherever we operate for the last 8-10 years.

[WeFixIt]

Chainsaw Oil

 

Oil that is too thin will fly off the rapidly spinning chain, and thus never reach the bottom and back of the chain and bar. Oil that is too thick will become too viscous in cold weather to be properly pumped and distributed, increasing friction. One of the most common type of oil used engine oil.

Purpose-made chainsaw bar oil is better, because it is formulated to stick to the chain. Some people use old oil (waste oil) either hydraulic or engine oil , recycling it as a bar oil for a chainsaw is not a good idea, as this old oil may have tiny iron filings in from it's previous use, and that will increase the wear and tear on your chainsaw rapidly not only on the bar and chain but also the oil pump

 

To much friction can cause blueing which is noticed first on the bar normally.

Bluing is oxidation of the metal surface which happens around 290C

(550F) this will remove the hardness and wearing life span of the bar and the chain should this happen.

The cutting edge of the chain teeth

could also suffer from overheating and therefore cutting edges go dull earlier than normal!

 

The longer the bar the longer the oil needs to travel to reach the areas under the heaviest friction with a high speed U bend half way!!

 

Some who speak of years ago ' in he old days we just used any old oil'

Times change tolerances have been reduced to a minimum, tuned, tweaked and refined.

Modern oils are made for modern chainsaws (with the exception of petrol or should I say ethanol with a bit of Petrolum in it!!)

 

 

 

 

 

Is it a chipper, is it a mower or another broken stump grinder who cares we'll fix it!

[chrismechanic]

engine oil poisons the water table, stop using it..if the enviro guys catch you doing that im sure you will get in trouble...

 

one litre of engine oil contaminates 1000s of litres of water.. need i say more.

 

+1 for the pure rapeseed oil, cheaper than engine oil as well.

my saw has no bar oiling issues.

chris.

[hedgesparrow]

chap i knew used old engine oil in his saw totaly screwed it up.

i use proper chain oil works well no dearer than engine oil.

was doing a job advised use veg oil in saw. just spun off chain had to resharpen it checked on the chain oil and it is fine working in rivers. so using proper chain oil.

[humpo48]

engine oil poisons the water table, stop using it..if the enviro guys catch you doing that im sure you will get in trouble...

 

 

 

one litre of engine oil contaminates 1000s of litres of water.. need i say more.

 

 

 

+1 for the pure rapeseed oil, cheaper than engine oil as well.

 

my saw has no bar oiling issues.

 

chris.

 

 

Totally agree