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Log saw horse


Essex arborist
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I reviewed the oregon sawhorse and the forestmaster. Both are in the reviews section found at the top of the right hand column above the ads.

 

My initial and still valid in my experience as a small scale firewood producer view is.

 

Sawhorses increase productivity

 

Save the strain on the body.

 

So you could Diy one up but it may actually cost as much in your valuable time and materials as it would to buy one. You could also miss out an essential feature.These are tried and tested, as already said some are only for domestic use and my oregon easycut is battered and repaired several times. However if you buy one and use it you will get to know what works for you and can improve the design for yourself at a later date.

 

Which is what i intend to do when I get round to it.

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Used a 'Log Master' with a MS171 and it was ok on small stuff, if a little slow to load.

Pros:

•You can cut down to quite short lengths

•Easy to set up

•Supports weight of small saw

•Easy to use

•Almost foolproof

•Suitable for short narrow bars, 12", 13"

 

Cons:

•Unstable on slightly sloping ground

•Unstable on uneven ground

•Clamp that secures saw to bench needs to be repositioned & re-tighted every 15mins. or less. As the bolt tends to loosen; the saw then slips allowing the top of the chain to contact the underside of the guard.

•It takes very little contact to wear through the guard.

•As the saw is raised to cut, the engine is raised toward the head, so noise levels are high, even when wearing defenders

•Not suitable for med. / std. / wide bars 15"+, (contact between chain and guard, stopping chain rotation).

 

Perhaps something akin to

. Edited by TGB
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I don't know what you class as expensive but I have this: it can hang off the tailgate of a pickup so once you cut a rack you just tip the whole lot straight into the buck.

 

Joce Metal t/a The Irony O'it - Buckingham Woodstation

 

I may have missed something but, can the logs be cut with a more commonly used length of bar on the chainsaw?

slim

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Didn't I see this one on Dragons Den?

slim

 

Yep we were on in September! Gotta say get yourself on the program if you want your sales to skyrocket! We got slapped like most do but 9 mins prime time is worth the hassle

 

Essex arborist

We have Dealers all over and adding all the time But I've PM'd you too

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I use a 20" bar: at 24" I'd be catching a steel cross member. I guess that's just the suspicion you had, hence your question.

Thanks for the reply, it was using a shorter bar I was referring to . It may not be the case in practice but it does look as if the rear log,if not cut right through as with a shorter bar, could add pressure to the cut front logs so making their removal difficult or more time consuming?

slim

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Ah - got you. I would recommend 18" bar as a iminimum and 20" as a maximum. A bit prescriptive maybe but if you fill the rack up you need 18" (16" not quite enough I've found) and if you have a bar longer than 20" you risk hitting the steel cross member.

A 16" bar would be OK if you only three quarters filled the rack as it gets deeper front to back as it fills.

 

These pics may help. The Husky there has a 15" bar.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g7uh7h2om8smsfz/g7weg0i7ZV

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