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How to do this?


michael larder
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So if i do say 4 cuts close on top about a third of the way in? And then 2 cuts close underneath? And yes , the piece i was cutting seemed to twist and thats when the saw was getting trapped

 

If you have a few cuts to watch you can see what the log is doing and act accordingly. Try to relieve the tension at the easiest end of the log , a few extra cuts can make you like easier.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Arbtalk mobile app

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Hi Michael,

 

Its all a matter of watching the wood as you work it, there's no way of explaining what you are doing right/wrong when cutting into it, you just get used to cross cutting it. Tension /compression works in many different ways dependant on how the tree is sat, where its sat etc, the best thing you can do is cut little and often always watching the woods reaction with a need to get your saw out as soon as it starts to close up on you. It will come with experience fella.

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Hi Michael,

 

Its all a matter of watching the wood as you work it, there's no way of explaining what you are doing right/wrong when cutting into it, you just get used to cross cutting it. Tension /compression works in many different ways dependant on how the tree is sat, where its sat etc, the best thing you can do is cut little and often always watching the woods reaction with a need to get your saw out as soon as it starts to close up on you. It will come with experience fella.

Thanks for that. Think i might of been cutting too quick cos when i realized the gap was closing it was too late. Well at least ive got a few more days practice of cross cutting large trees. Will put everyones advice into practice

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A useful tip I picked up for processing large timber is when you start a top cut, go it about half way, pull out, cut a little wedge from your top cut, and knock it in with the bar. DIY wedge to prevent a cut closing.

 

I'm sure someone can explain better than me.

 

That is a method I have used for years, very effective & fast, as no need to put the saw down.:thumbup1:

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Having a few wedges to hand is very useful when ringing up big timber. Just bang them in as your cutting through to keep your cut open.

 

Another thing you could try is to put in a "V" shaped gob cut on the compression side, then make your undercut , cutting up towards the inverted apex of your top cut "V". Hope that makes sense.

 

I appreciate the position you are in, but your boss is a bit of a tool, to go swanning off on his jollies and leave someone as experienced as yourself on their own to carry out a task that they are both unfamiliar with and with a big bit of kit they are not used to using. :thumbdown:

 

I admire your spirit for wanting to crack on with it, but you have been placed deep in the middle of a H&S minefield. Please do not take any unnecessary risks, and make sure that the fencers on site are within shouting distance at all times. If they have to move away for any reason make sure that you have a system in place where you each check in with the other at regular intervals. Stay safe mate. :thumbup1:

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A useful tip I picked up for processing large timber is when you start a top cut, go it about half way, pull out, cut a little wedge from your top cut, and knock it in with the bar. DIY wedge to prevent a cut closing.

 

I'm sure someone can explain better than me.

 

I've been cutting trees for 16 years and have never heard of, or thought of this. Brilliant :thumbup1:

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