what ppe is required for milling?

[se7enthdevil]

hi all, just need a bit of advice on what ppe to purchase for use whilst i'm milling.

 

i have ear defenders, face mask and steelies but need to know what trousers to get and if you need anything else.

 

i'm confused by all the classes of trousers??? also what sizes do the small medium and large cover? i've a 36" waist and 34" inside leg...

 

i'll only be milling on occasion with my recently purchased 084 and soon to be purchased (if i can find the dosh) 36 or 48" mill.

 

any help greatly appreciated

[Stephen Blair]

Imo trousers are the most important part of Ppe , get a pair of Type A, 36" waist, 32" long trousers, simples

Also a pair of protection wellies are good and cheap.

Make sure the saws chain catcher is there aswell.

A mask for dust is useful aswell.

[agrimog]

if your not going to be using the saw for cross cutting and felling Steve, get a good pair of chaps, cos I can gaurentee once you cut a few boards and stop to move them, your going to start cooking, chaps on, mill wood, chaps off, manual work, it only takes a few minutes to slip them on and off, depending on what your milling a dust mask is a must, and you might find a clear visor face shield is better than the mesh visor on a felling helmet (the chips of a milling chain are a lot smaller than cross cutting chips). till you get your setup honed to your liking a pair of knee pads, your going to be doing a bit of crawling about...lol...and anything else that works for you

[Stompy]

Don't know too much about chainsaw protection but I use one of these to stop all the nasties getting into my lungs in general workshop usage.......

 

Product Catalog:3M? Maintenance Free Half Mask Respirators 4000 Series

 

Comfy and cheap enough to have a few kicking about so there is always one handy. Good for chemical vapour protection too so versatile for finishing to. I know most timbers aren't too harmful but over the years wood dust can cause some problems, worth looking after your air bags.

[CJM]

You'll want class A trousers and the only way to see if they'll fit is to try them on

[Stephen Blair]

I've only done a few days Alaskan milling, the best way I found for ease and board finish was too start the saw in the wood as usual, then once its a bar width in, lock the throttle with a tie wrap and pull the mill along with a bit of rope 1 handed, the control is great, theirs no vibrations and your away from the dust and dangerous bit.

When near the end , pop of the wrap and finish as usual.

You really need a helper for doing the wedges.

I've got a pic at home I'll dig out when I'm home.

[agg221]

I second the comments on the use of chaps and chainsaw wellies. Chaps are great when crawling around in the leaf litter in the woods. I also use a pair of AV gloves (from Rob D). I don't feel the need for chainsaw protective gloves as the position for milling doesn't really allow for the saw to come in contact with your hands. Note that the milling position also doesn't allow for the chainbrake to work by anything other than inertia.

 

Alec

[se7enthdevil]

no acronyms please guys, i don't know what they are???

 

i'm guessing av is "anti something?"

[corylus]

no acronyms please guys, i don't know what they are???

 

i'm guessing av is "anti something?"

 

Audio visual, anti-viral......or anti-vibration in this case.

[agg221]

Audio visual, anti-viral......or anti-vibration in this case.

 

If your saw is old enough it will also have it written on the top. It used to be a selling feature in the days when such things were optional - I have several saws without it, hence why I have AV gloves, but the anti-vibration mounts on the older saws are not as effective as on more modern ones.

 

Alec