The Mower Bench

[GardenKit]

http://www.kaaz.co.jp/PartList/LM_pdf/LM5360KXA/LM5360KXA-PL-137-ALL-030403_web.pdf

very informative, thankyou. from the above parts diagram in your experience which parts are likely to need changing? just weighing up whether its worth repairing or not. or even getting a 2nd hand gearbox (suppose this could end up the same as current box though)

If lubrication and adjustment of the cable fails, and the lever is not damaged, then the dog clutch will be worn. You will need items 24 and 25. Best to also get 2 x item 6 (seals) and possibly a new lever arm item 18.

 

These items total just under £60 plus vat.

 

Good luck

[jamesd]

The linkage plate is on the carb side of the engine and is secured by two torx screws at the top, in slotted holes. A little movement here makes a lot of difference to the revs.

But as I said, be very careful to reset the choke.

 

You will need tachometer to measure the revs.

 

Maybe best to ask the dealer who supplied it.

 

Ok thanks for the help, would it be something most dealers would do then? I wouldn't think they'd want to mess with the factory settings?

[GardenKit]

Ok thanks for the help, would it be something most dealers would do then? I wouldn't think they'd want to mess with the factory settings?

Always assuming that it is in fact at factory settings.

 

Many new mowers are low, out of the box. We PDI every machine and part of that process is to ensure that the recommended engine revs are achieved.

 

Sometimes, by accident we exceed that speed.

[will1000]

http://postimg.org/image/7uc3dpsqh/

http://postimg.org/image/9ayzvgoqb/

http://postimg.org/image/4f3bjio89/

 

arm looks straight to me, also clutch doesn't look too worn. do you think its warn enough to give me these problems? also i tried to adjust the cable before hand adjusted it fully both ways and it didnt make a difference so im presuming it must be the clutch?

[WelshMan]

Resistor or non-resistor spark plugs?

 

I was intending to change the spark-plugs on my parents' mowers with Briggs & Stratton engines. One is a 3.5hp Mountfield, the other a 16.5hp MTD.

 

The plugs in our spares-box are the non-resistor NGK B2LM. I normally use resistor plugs on the chain-saws.

 

Are the B2LM's OK to use or would I be better off using B2RLM's (or Champion RJ19LM's)?

 

Also, does anyone have any thoughts on the SparkCheck clip-on plug-tester?

 

CHECKSPARK Spark Plug Analyzer Ignition Tester Tool ~ Check if you have OK Spark | eBay

 

I just bought one from the States for just over £23 which included postage. It seems to work fine on all the equipment we have but I couldn't really test it out because luckily everything we have is currently working.

[GardenKit]

Resistor or non-resistor spark plugs?

 

I was intending to change the spark-plugs on my parents' mowers with Briggs & Stratton engines. One is a 3.5hp Mountfield, the other a 16.5hp MTD.

 

The plugs in our spares-box are the non-resistor NGK B2LM. I normally use resistor plugs on the chain-saws.

 

Are the B2LM's OK to use or would I be better off using B2RLM's (or Champion RJ19LM's)?

 

Also, does anyone have any thoughts on the SparkCheck clip-on plug-tester?

 

CHECKSPARK Spark Plug Analyzer Ignition Tester Tool ~ Check if you have OK Spark | eBay

 

I just bought one from the States for just over £23 which included postage. It seems to work fine on all the equipment we have but I couldn't really test it out because luckily everything we have is currently working.

By all means use non-resistor plugs, but be ready for complaints from the neighbours when they are trying to watch Home and Away.

[carlos]

ive got a john deere mower with a freedom 42 mulching deck, and i have just welded the deck and now the "V" deck belt keeps getting a twist in it and seems quiet hot and also squeeks and start up ??? it apparently all worked before it needed welding and i havent touched the toothed timing belt, any ideas would be great thanks.

carl

[2stroke-ady]

View image: IMG 20140419 173925

View image: IMG 20140419 164447

View image: IMG 20140419 191931

 

arm looks straight to me, also clutch doesn't look too worn. do you think its warn enough to give me these problems? also i tried to adjust the cable before hand adjusted it fully both ways and it didnt make a difference so im presuming it must be the clutch?

 

No you never can see the wear on the clutch. It would be daft now you've got it apart to not replace at least the sliding dog (clutch bit that slides) and don't forget about the 2 speed selector, make sure the plunger is free and springs back out all the way.

[GardenKit]

No you never can see the wear on the clutch. It would be daft now you've got it apart to not replace at least the sliding dog (clutch bit that slides) and don't forget about the 2 speed selector, make sure the plunger is free and springs back out all the way.

I agree totally with Ady. You can never see much wear and its difficult to believe this is the fault.

 

That is why its better to leave well alone and just give the mower a little shove when starting forwards, to synchronise the speed. The dogs will drop in and it will drive fine.

 

But, like Ady says, I would replace the dogs whilst it is apart now. In fact I would replace both the sliding dog and the bevel gear part as well. But thats just me.

[GardenKit]

ive got a john deere mower with a freedom 42 mulching deck, and i have just welded the deck and now the "V" deck belt keeps getting a twist in it and seems quiet hot and also squeeks and start up ??? it apparently all worked before it needed welding and i havent touched the toothed timing belt, any ideas would be great thanks.

carl

 

I guess you have had to weld one, or both of the deck hangers back on. I reckon you may have got the RH one just slightly out of line.

The V belt runs very close to the drop bolt of the RH deck lift arm and its possible to accidentally get the belt the wrong side of the bolt (even easier if its a little out of line)

This will wear the belt on the inside edge and turn it on its side when its profile changes through wear.

It will also generate the heat, and as it is rubbing against a stationary object it creates friction which may cause the belt to slip on the crank pulley, hence the screech when engaging.

 

If this is the case then a new belt will be required and pay particular attention to the routing, both when slack and when engaged, before starting.