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Spuds Porting and Tuning Thread


spudulike
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Cheers spud, muff mod it is then. No sense buying new bits for it as it's hardly done anything. Better off selling it and getting something else if starts to really bother me. Any idea on second hand value? I think its a 2007 model, ms290. Still on original 18" bar, paint not even all worn off and only on its 3rd or 4th chain.

 

Value - I would expect £200 - 250

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Muffler Mods

 

Sorry if this is obvious - basic questions

 

1. if you're brazing in an exhaust tube are you doing this simply to direct flow away from other components not possible with just a hole?

 

2. what the best technique for making the hole in the muffler to take the tube and presumably you want the inside joint surfaces to be flush with the new tube?

 

cheers

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Muffler Mods

 

Sorry if this is obvious - basic questions

 

1. if you're brazing in an exhaust tube are you doing this simply to direct flow away from other components not possible with just a hole?

 

2. what the best technique for making the hole in the muffler to take the tube and presumably you want the inside joint surfaces to be flush with the new tube?

 

cheers

 

The tube is to strengthen it and ....it just makes it look finished and "right" rather than some hillbilly bodge. It will direct heat and gas where it can dissipate but I just liek to do a good finished job.

 

Best way of making a hole - you can fit your trained mouse with titanium gnashers or simply use a drill of your choice:001_rolleyes::lol:....sorry:001_tt2:

 

Just use a drill, relieve the hole until the tube is a snug fit and then angle and braze or weld it.

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Spent my Sunday porting a 064 Stihl. The exhast port widenend, the inlet port widened and squared up similar to the 066, the lowers opened up a bit and the upper transfers......noticed they were uneven so leveled them, got a little angle on them and ended up with 19 degrees blowdown, 162 degrees exhaust - same as standard and the squish spot on 0.5mm.

 

The piston windows were also significantly opened up an flowed.

 

The saw has a pretty rapid pickup now, probably won't get the chance to use it as it is damn loud but early signs are good - just need to run and tach it.

 

No pics - the camera batteries ran out! :thumbdown:

 

One benifit of doing this saw is that I could check the degree difference of the Red Eye 066 ignition timing using the 064 coil. The degree difference on the dual key 066 flywheel part 122 400 1214 is .....52 degrees - fact!

 

Makes my own 066 mods much easier now:thumbup:

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Fitted the spare muffler I modded the weekend to the new 395 today. Will get around to porting it soon but got a 385xp to totally strip and rebuild when it turns up (new crank, bearing and seals etc so prob port that whilst its stripped down and get that sorted first.

 

As it comes out the factory..

 

395before_zpsf2a3dd83.jpg

Twin exit boy racer exhaust..

395after_zpsb2bd26f3.jpg

Edited by wisecobandit
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Fitted the spare muffler I modded the weekend to the new 395 today. Will get around to porting it soon but got a 385xp to totally strip and rebuild when it turns up (new crank, bearing and seals etc so prob port that whilst its stripped down and get that sorted first.

As it comes out the factory..

 

395before_zpsf2a3dd83.jpg

After..

395after_zpsb2bd26f3.jpg

 

Nice Muff Mod :thumbup::thumbup:

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Don't no if it's been asked already but what percentage more power do you get from a ported saw and approx cost ?

 

Not too many saw dynos out there, a few in the US but don't know of any in the UK. I usually say I expect 15-25% reduction in time to cut a piece of timber but it isn't n exact science unless you spend hours doing before and after cuts using the same cutting gear etc.

 

The 357XPs I have done have been timed against 560XPs and keep up with them!

 

Cost - PM me if you want a quote - it varies from saw to saw!

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