Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Spuds Porting and Tuning Thread


spudulike
 Share

Recommended Posts

Log in or register to remove this advert

Hah. That hotel is more show than go. Not unlike my first attempt at porting a 241cm. It's a brand new hotel with very low cost room offers right now, so I thought I would try it out. I do fancy having a wee with the office workers watching across the way there. Never thought I was such a pervo. Ah well.

 

Er, Ah yeahh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hah. That hotel is more show than go. Not unlike my first attempt at porting a 241cm. It's a brand new hotel with very low cost room offers right now, so I thought I would try it out. I do fancy having a wee with the office workers watching across the way there. Never thought I was such a pervo. Ah well.

 

Er, Ah yeahh

 

Never seen a loo in a shower cubicle before, that is a little weird - does it have good ventilation for if you have been on chilli or is it a time saver - have a crap and shower at the same time:thumbup:

 

I think those office workers would be shocked.....I sort of pity them!:lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This was the sort of timing curve I was talking about in respect to my 066, it is completely different from a four stroke where the advance increases with revs.

 

In this case, the advance backs off dramatically with revs to protect the engine from overheating and pre-detonation.

 

Older saws had one set advance, this type of curve is found on CDI units, on chainsaws, it would have around 5-6 set points where the advance will change but the concept is the same.

curva01.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you ever tried doing the drill holes in the exhaust whilst running the saw at full revs? Just wondered if it would be a interesting video to actually watch on a rev ometer the difference in the saw output?

 

Maybe talking absolute rubbish but just thought about it yesterday, and was wondering if would show the difference as it occurs.

 

If talking rubbish please tell me, and explain the stupidity behind my thought if it is not related to the potential to slip and injure whilst drilling a full revving saw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the drill breaks through and pushes swarf down the side of the piston and the spinning chain takes the knuckles of your drill hand you start to wish you had just taken a tacho reading before and after :biggrin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the drill breaks through and pushes swarf down the side of the piston and the spinning chain takes the knuckles of your drill hand you start to wish you had just taken a tacho reading before and after :biggrin:

 

Was thinking could do it without the bar and chain on. Just wondered if it would enable the porters of the world to truly find the optimum hole size for porting. Admittedly not into mechanics so firing from the hip.

 

Hadnt thought about the piston aspect, good point. Every day a school day and all that.

 

Thanks for the reply to what may have been a stupid question/thought

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was thinking could do it without the bar and chain on. Just wondered if it would enable the porters of the world to truly find the optimum hole size for porting. Admittedly not into mechanics so firing from the hip.

 

Hadnt thought about the piston aspect, good point. Every day a school day and all that.

 

Thanks for the reply to what may have been a stupid question/thought

 

Not good to run a saw flat out without bar and chain on . It needs that bit of load on it . Have seen the clutch spin off and dissapiar at a great rate when doing that :001_smile:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you ever tried doing the drill holes in the exhaust whilst running the saw at full revs? Just wondered if it would be a interesting video to actually watch on a rev ometer the difference in the saw output?

 

Maybe talking absolute rubbish but just thought about it yesterday, and was wondering if would show the difference as it occurs.

 

If talking rubbish please tell me, and explain the stupidity behind my thought if it is not related to the potential to slip and injure whilst drilling a full revving saw

 

A much safer way, and more accurate would be to make a really big square edged hole in an an old exhaust with a sliding cover.

That way you can make the hole smaller again after you've gone past the perfect size and performance no longer improves. Then with the hole at the ideal size, simply measure up and create a hole that size in the real exhaust.

 

Downside is you'd either need a spare exhaust or close off the excess hole you've made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.