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forestry chains


IanW
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i had seen some where that you could get chains with a couple less teeth than std chains so it was quicker for forestry hand cutters to sharpen in the field, id be interested in trying one to see if there is any difference, but i can't find a place to get one, any one on here have any ideas or leads?

 

Ian

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I can't see how that would make Mitch diffrrence? It only takes seconds to file each tooth unless you have hit something. Surely the chain wouldn't cut as well if it has teeth missing?

 

Skip / semi skip chains are generally used on big bar softwood felling not because there are less cutters to sharpen but because it clears the chip faster than a standard chain avoiding the tenancy for big bars to bog down and clog . Because the interval between cutters is greater there is mor room to carry the chip out of the kirf ....

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Skip / semi skip chains are generally used on big bar softwood felling not because there are less cutters to sharpen but because it clears the chip faster than a standard chain avoiding the tenancy for big bars to bog down and clog . Because the interval between cutters is greater there is mor room to carry the chip out of the kirf ....

 

Got ya! That's well explained. Thanks.

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Less cutters need less power, and to a lesser extent IMO better swarf clearance helps stop the saw bogging down.

 

You can make your own skip tooth chain by taking an angle grinder to a standard chain. Whip off every other cutter side for side and take the depth gauges off where you have removed the cutters.

 

Using skip chain isn't good for every saw/bar combination, it can max out bar length but in the worst case you could end up cutting much slower than stock.

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Less cutters need less power, and to a lesser extent IMO better swarf clearance helps stop the saw bogging down.

 

You can make your own skip tooth chain by taking an angle grinder to a standard chain. Whip off every other cutter side for side and take the depth gauges off where you have removed the cutters.

 

Using skip chain isn't good for every saw/bar combination, it can max out bar length but in the worst case you could end up cutting much slower than stock.

 

 

Yep - you only need skip link chain on long bars where the saw is bogging down. It keeps the chain speed up.

 

But adapting a chain will give a greater gap than skip link - skip link only misses one link for every cutter - grinding the chain will mean you will miss x2 links. Also it will weaken the chain where you have been doing the grinding.

 

 

:001_smile:

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Yep - you only need skip link chain on long bars where the saw is bogging down. It keeps the chain speed up.

 

But adapting a chain will give a greater gap than skip link - skip link only misses one link for every cutter - grinding the chain will mean you will miss x2 links. Also it will weaken the chain where you have been doing the grinding.

 

:001_smile:

 

True enough on the spacing but you will only damage the chain if you go at it ham fisted.

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